If it happens that you want a new flat-screen wall-mounted TV, but don’t have enough money for it, assemble it yourself.
For this we need an LCD monitor. There is practically no difference between the matrix of an LCD monitor and an LCD TV. For our idea, an average LCD monitor and an external TV tuner are suitable.
Great attention should be paid to the viewing angle of the monitor, the uniformity of the backlight, its brightness and contrast. Appearance is of secondary importance. The built-in sound is also your choice - whether this sound quality suits you is up to you to decide. The same goes for the power supply and monitor stand.
Let's move on to choosing a TV tuner. Firstly, take care of the excellent quality of signal reception, manual adjustment after using the auto mode, the control panel and a convenient and understandable menu. All other functions are at your choice.
Now that all materials have been prepared and checked, we begin assembly. If your newly made TV will take pride of place on the wall, you should first outline this very place around the perimeter of the monitor. Do not forget to calculate the approximate depth of the opening to connect all the wires. We also mark the mounting locations that will hold the monitor on the wall. And we are looking for a place for a TV tuner. If necessary, make a special hole in the wall. It is necessary to take into account not only the appearance, but also the location of the wires and connectors.
The main points have been resolved. It would be a good idea to put the system together to understand how it all will look together with the wires. Now we take it apart and, in the name of beauty, cut off all the excess from the wires so that this excess does not stick out or hang down. If funds allow, the reasons can be hidden in the wall. In this case, their length must be measured very carefully. Otherwise, you will have to suffer for a long time if the length is not enough.
By the way, the tuner can also be hidden in the wall. But then you definitely need to think about the issue of ventilation and controlling the tuner using the buttons on its body. For example, you can remove wires from buttons and diodes and connect them to external buttons. External buttons can be placed on the monitor stand. By the way, such a stand will also cover the tuner itself. And since the tuner is covered, you don’t have to completely “roll it into concrete”, leaving a hole that can later be covered with a mesh.
Let's move directly to the fastening. Firstly, there are monitors whose stands require wall mounting. In this case there will be no problems. If such luxury is not provided, build the mounting loops yourself. Fortunately, it's not that difficult.
To make it convenient to disassemble the system, you can connect the tuner and monitor wires using some suitable connector. By the way, if you have a desire, then it is quite possible to bring all the tuner connectors into the access zone.
The only small thing left is to plaster the walls and hang wallpaper. And now your new TV is in a hurry to delight you!
By the way, if you calculate the costs, then it will take no more than 12-15 thousand rubles for everything. A normal wall panel costs approximately 20 to 40 thousand (the price range is taken within the monitor diagonal we used). The savings are obvious! And also pride in such a personal achievement. And there may even be a small bonus - a built-in card reader. After all, watching your own photos or videos on such a TV is a pleasure!
Guide from our moderator and regular contributor Nero. This article is a full version of a similar publication in the December issue of the special issue of Hacker magazine dedicated to modding, which also addresses the issue of software.
LCD - Do-it-yourself character-synthesizing display
Editor: PK4Y
Page 1
Unfortunately, most mods have no practical value - they serve only as decoration without bringing any benefit. But the character-synthesizing display, in addition to its decorative function, is also a very useful device.
But what is good about a character-synthesizing display and what is its practical purpose? First of all, it is worth noting the versatility of this device. Using specialized software, you can display almost all system parameters: processor and system temperatures as a whole, fan speed, amount of data transferred, amount of free virtual memory, and much more. With this versatility, the final costs for this miracle of technology are unlikely to exceed fifteen dollars (this is true when using a 16×2 screen, you can also use 20×4 screens, since the wiring diagrams are no different, but this will increase costs).
From words to deeds
Real modder's kit
What is needed to make this mod? From the tools we need a soldering iron, we also need to purchase solder and rosin (you can use special fluxes). The components you will need are the display itself on a Hitachi HD44780 controller or any compatible one (I used a display from Data Vision on a backlit pm16210 controller), in addition you will need an LPT cable for the printer.
First you need to remove the casings from the ends of the cable using a knife, as shown in the figure.
Cable with covers removed
After this, we unsolder or cut off all the wires soldered to the connector that is inserted directly into the printer.
Now you can start soldering
Now you can start soldering the wires to the display. Just pay attention to how contacts number fifteen and sixteen are located - they are located before the first contact (if you look from left to right, the contacts are in the following order: 16, 15, 1, 2, 3 and so on).
Slightly unusual contact numbering
Here is the table and wiring diagram:
Contact
On LCD 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 What
Solder ground 5v ground pin 16 ground pin 1 pin 2 pin 3 pin 4 pin 5 pin 6 pin 7 pin 8 pin 9 5v ground
Wiring diagram for those who don't like tables
Soldering should be done carefully so that adjacent pads do not touch, otherwise the display may be damaged when connected. After soldering, everything should look something like what is shown in the photo:
Everything is ready to go
The goal of this project is to create a solar backlit display that can be mounted on your window.
By creating a device, you will get an energy-efficient display without backlight and inverter.
It's nice to look out the window overlooking your garden and see the time, current weather and weather forecast in the left corner of the window.
For this project we will need:
Old computer LCD monitor (see next step);
A Windows-based laptop, laptop, or personal computer (or in my case, a simple client that connects to a virtual machine on the server for improved energy efficiency);
VGA cable of sufficient length;
Gluing gun;
Optional: transparent glue cartridges that require heating.
Step 1: LCD Panel Requirements
There are some requirements for choosing an LCD panel.
As shown in the image above, the top images are the LCD panel without the ribbon cable running behind it.
Some panels, which are shown in the image below, have a ribbon cable that runs from the input PCB (top board) to the output PCB (PCB on the side of the panel). These panels CANNOT BE USED in this project as the cable will be visible and noticeable when illuminated by sunlight. Only panels with two separate boards will work (top image).
Step 2: Disassemble the monitor
At this step you need to completely disassemble the monitor.
Almost everything needs to be taken out.
Here is a list of components that need to be left:
LCD panel (tinted glass like a panel with a printed circuit board attached to it);
Control board (if you can remove the board with the inverter, then remove it);
Flat cable between control board and LCD panel.
!!!BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL WHEN HANDLING THE LCD PANEL, IT IS VERY FRAGILE!!!
!!!THE FLAT PANEL CABLE CAN EASILY BE BREAKED!!!
Step 3: Attaching to the Window
To attach the LCD panel to the window, use glue that requires heating.
This glue will provide excellent and reliable fastening of the panel to the window.
I attached my panel on September 1, 2015, and now it is January 18, 2016. It has now been four months without any work being done to reattach or adjust the position of the panel.
Step 4: Attaching the LCD Control Board
The control board is also attached to the ceiling with glue.
It adheres perfectly to the wallpaper and does not come off over time.
Step 5: Cable Routing
Route the cables from the control board to the computer.
It is necessary to extend the power cable of the control board.
You can cut the power cable and take a longer piece of cable, then strip it and solder them together.
Step 6: Software
This project requires:
Google Chrome browser https://www.google.com/chrome/browser/desktop
Currently (chrome extension) https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/currentl…
Auto Refresh (chrome extension) https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/auto-ref…
First install the chrome browser.
Then install the extensions according to the footnotes listed above.
Typically, if you close and reopen the chrome browser, you will see the Currently page (current time and weather readings).
If not, then open a new tab.
Then configure the Currently page by clicking the three bars in the upper left corner.
It is recommended to use light colors for maximum visibility and set the zoom level to “zoomed in” for better readability.
Set the page to automatically refresh every 15 minutes (the usual interval for weather updates).
Job done, brainiacs!
Now you can enjoy the display in your window :).
Step 7: Known Issue
If the panel is attached for a long period of time, bugs may appear between it and the window. Perhaps the reason for their appearance lies in the small amount of heat emitted by the panel. If the bugs start to irritate you, then remove the panel using a hair dryer or heat gun on the lowest setting, clean it, and then put the panel back.
In the end, the bugs are not visible at a distance of one and a half meters from the panel.
Step 8: Final Result
This video demonstrates the operation of the device on the first day after installation.
Good luck with your new brain projects!
I think that for most computer owners, the word “modding” no longer raises questions. Modding is for a computer geek what tuning is for a car driver. Coming from the English modify (modify, change), this concept has grown into a whole direction, with an ever-increasing number of fans. And all thanks to enthusiasts who tried to elevate the boring and nondescript gray boxes that so quickly appeared in our apartments. Moding is plastic surgery for your computer and its peripheral devices. With the help of paint, lighting and some modifications, you can achieve a unique, individual design.
I am not inclined to classify myself as a “modder”, although I visit sites devoted to this topic with great pleasure. In practice, I encountered this completely unexpectedly. But first things first.
Where it all started
It all started with a simple renovation in the kitchen. The TV, which returned to its rightful place after the renovation was completed, ended up right under the ceiling - the fact is that the new refrigerator is twenty centimeters higher than the old one. As a result, watching the morning news with a cup of tea became very difficult. After a week, this began to irritate not only me, but the whole family.
At the family council, it was decided to retire the “old hard worker” and replace him with a new modern liquid crystal “perfection” with further placement of it on the wall. There is nothing easier - go to the nearest consumer electronics store and choose a suitable copy. But the prices for these TVs are very, very impressive. There are, of course, inexpensive models, but they don’t inspire confidence in me. And those that attract attention are in the price range from 17,000 to 32,000 rubles. If you take a closer look at the technical characteristics of televisions in this group, there are almost no differences between the matrices of LCD monitors and the matrices of LCD TVs. And often with the same screen resolution (1024x768), they are inferior to them in brightness, contrast and viewing angles. So what's stopping us from combining an inexpensive LCD monitor with an external TV tuner? It’s decided, we’ll assemble the TV with our own hands.
Selection criteria
Here we need to clearly understand what we want to get in the end, and, based on this, draw up a certain list of conditions by which we will select applicants.
We can immediately divide our conditional list into two groups. Group “A” will include mandatory requirements; failure to fulfill at least one will result in rejection of the applicant. In group “B” there will be desirable ones - those that we can, if necessary, compensate on our own. All this, of course, is subjective, and what I have identified for myself may not coincide with the conditions of others.
Monitor (from 9000 to 10500 rub.)
Group A requirements- Appearance or design - it’s up to anyone. But if we want to get a TV, and not the feeling of a monitor operating in “screen saver” mode, then we should pay special attention to this point.
- Viewing angles. A very important parameter, and we are interested in both horizontal and vertical viewing angles. The higher these values, the more comfortable the viewing experience.
- Brightness and contrast reserve. This parameter, like the previous one, will allow you to achieve satisfactory image quality.
- Illumination uniformity. Screen illumination is not always uniform. In many inexpensive models, the lower part of the screen is noticeably brighter, especially on uniformly dark images. The better this is implemented, the more evenly the light is distributed. The most common backlight is bottom lighting, when the lamp illuminating the matrix is located at the bottom. Another implementation is possible, but it is more relevant to more expensive monitors or widescreen screens.
- Built-in sound system. If you are satisfied with the quality of the sound reproduced by the built-in speakers of the monitor, then the problem of implementing sound for the TV will be solved. Otherwise, in the future you will have to choose an additional sound system, and also look for an additional outlet for it. Powering our TV from three outlets is too much, although this can be easily bypassed if desired.
- Built-in power supply. The external unit will have to be hidden somewhere.
- Monitor stand. Ease of dismantling and non-violation of the design features of the monitor will allow you to maintain the warranty on the device. There are stands that allow you to mount the monitor on the wall. It is also advisable to avoid stands with connectors located on them. But all this is subjective, and everyone will choose what they are looking for.
It is advisable to check all these parameters at a stand, and when purchasing, do not really trust the manufacturer’s technical characteristics - sometimes they are disingenuous.
TV tuner (from 2000 to 3000 rubles)
Group A requirements- Confident, high-quality reception. The resolution of a conventional TV is slightly lower than the resolution of an LCD monitor, and the more noticeable will be the interference associated with a bad antenna cable, unsatisfactory wiring on the panel and uncertain signal reception. If you can try to solve the first two components on your own, then the latter can only be solved by replacing the device.
- Fine tuning. Ability to adjust the channel after automatic tuning.
- Broadcasting system. You need a tuner that automatically adjusts to the broadcast system of the selected television channel, or with the ability to set these values for each channel separately. In accordance with the existing standard in Russia, broadcasting is carried out in the SECAM system, but some regional cable channels use a different encoding for generating color signals.
- Remote control operation. A convenient remote control and the ability to switch from channel to channel with one click of a button, that is, so that when switching to channels from one to nine you don’t have to dial zero at the beginning, and then 1, 2, 3 ... 9. It’s not difficult, but believe me, it’s inconvenient .
- Menu. The more convenient the menu is, the more settings that allow you to make corrections after auto scanning, the easier it is to achieve high-quality picture and sound.
- Russified menu and documentation. Of course, this is an optional requirement, but it allows you to more comfortably navigate the menu and study the documentation.
- Channel preview function. It is very convenient, without flipping through channel after channel, but by looking at the preview window and selecting what you are looking for. As a rule, 9-12 channels are displayed on the screen.
- Return function. Conveniently switch between two channels by pressing just one button. Almost every TV has this feature, and I’m sure many have gotten used to it.
I deliberately do not give specific numerical values for various characteristics, since a discussion on this issue would be inevitable. In addition, for some this may become an unnecessary limitation when choosing devices.
After a short but productive search and comparison, two devices were selected that met my needs. This is BenQ FP591 LCD monitor and GOTVIEW TV tuner - BOX. 
In my opinion, BenQ's designers did a great job - I'm sure no one will remain indifferent when they see this monitor. Plus very decent sound with the SRS function and a built-in card reader. As for the tuner, it is also very good. The model, originally designed for the Russian market, has very good reception and a convenient settings menu in Russian. 
Assembly
Having everything we need in hand, we begin to implement our plans.
The first thing we need to do is check how well all the devices perform their functions. Only after we make sure that our tandem is working can we begin the main part of the work.
The monitor stand is secured with four screws, which will come in handy later. We unscrew the stand and select a place to mount our LCD panel on the wall. The optimal mounting height, taking into account vertical viewing angles, is approximately 1.5-1.6 m from the floor. We outline the contours of the panel, and also mark the depth of the “pocket” where all the connectors will be located. The two top screws that held our panel on the stand will now hold it on the wall, which means we also mark these places with a pencil. Loops for fastening can either be purchased or made using part of the stand for this purpose (I will not dwell on this, since there is nothing complicated at all).
Next, we estimate and mark the place where we will place the tuner. You need to approach this issue creatively and choose a convenient location for the wires from the tuner connectors. I positioned the device so that the connectors faced to the left - for me it was convenient, although not entirely rational. Considering that the top cover of the tuner will be removed, we make a recess in the wall, approximately 30-35 mm. If the wall is concrete, then you can’t do without a hammer drill. It was somewhat simpler for me - the air duct box is made of plaster, and it lends itself well to a simple chisel (taking this into account, the forces had to be controlled so as not to fall a hole into the shaft).
Next, we carry out preliminary assembly to mark the places where we will hide our numerous wires. Then we make a groove and put everything back in its place, but this time with the laying of the wires. 
Next is the most inconvenient, but important moment. Since all the wires will subsequently be closed, and we will not have the opportunity to change their length, we measure as accurately as possible the length of the remaining uncovered wires that will connect the tuner to the monitor. We assemble the entire system and note the length that allowed us to later assemble everything together without interference. 
Considering that in the future the visible area of the tuner and the wires will be covered with a layer of mortar and wallpaper, it is necessary to resolve the issue of ventilation and push-button control of the TV tuner.
The issue of ventilation is easily resolved. One option could be a small oblong hole in the air duct shaft, which can be covered with fiberglass or metal mesh. That's exactly what I did. 
Push-button control of the tuner was implemented as follows. Wires were soldered to the buttons on the device, as well as to the IR receiver and the diode signaling the operation of the device; a regular IDE cable was used for this. Duplicator buttons were placed on the monitor stand, which in turn was a decorative panel covering part of the tuner. 
The panel is attached in the same way as the monitor - using two standard screws on the edges of the stand, which in turn use hinges made from a regular tin can.
Also on the panel were placed: an LED indicator and an IR receiver. To make it easier to dismantle the panel, I connected the wires from the tuner and panel via a standard IDE connector. 
The upper part of the buttons was made of colored diodes from the old hub. In my opinion, it turned out very attractive. But I didn’t backlight these very buttons - the abundance of glowing diodes does not give me pleasant feelings. Very reminiscent of a server rack, although this is a matter of taste. You can duplicate and display all the tuner connectors on the panel. It all depends on whether you want to use them in the future or not. 
Conclusion
As a result, after finishing the painting and plastering work, wallpapering and final installation, we get an excellent multifunctional TV, of very decent quality, at a price of 12,500 rubles. Plus a bonus for our efforts in the form of a built-in card reader. 
The bonus, although exotic, is very useful. Whatever you say, it’s nice, sitting at a good table, in the circle of friends or family, to show on the screen photographs of a recent trip to the sea or to the World Cup. What exactly to show is up to everyone to decide for themselves.
Here are the TOP 10 most common malfunctions of LCD monitors that I have personally experienced. The rating of malfunctions was compiled according to the personal opinion of the author, based on his experience working in a service center. You can take this as a universal repair manual for almost any LCD monitor from Samsung, LG, BENQ, HP, Acer and others. Here we go.
I divided the malfunctions of LCD monitors into 10 points, but this does not mean that there are only 10 of them - there are many more of them, including combined and floating ones. Many of the breakdowns of LCD monitors can be repaired with your own hands and at home.
at all, although the power light may blink. In this case, the monitor lights up for a second and goes out, turns on and turns off immediately. Jerking the cable, dancing with a tambourine and other pranks do not help. The method of tapping the monitor with a nervous hand usually doesn’t help either, so don’t even try. The reason for this malfunction of LCD monitors is most often the failure of the power supply board, if it is built into the monitor.
Recently, monitors with an external power supply have become fashionable. This is good because the user can simply change the power source in case of breakdown. If there is no external power source, you will have to disassemble the monitor and look for a fault on the board. In most cases, disassembling an LCD monitor is not difficult, but you need to remember about safety precautions.
Before fixing the poor guy, let him stand for 10 minutes, unplugged. During this time, the high-voltage capacitor will have time to discharge. ATTENTION! DANGEROUS TO LIFE if the diode bridge and PWM transistor burn out! In this case, the high-voltage capacitor will not discharge in an acceptable time.
Therefore, EVERYONE check the voltage on it before repairing! If dangerous voltage remains, then you need to discharge the capacitor manually through an insulated resistor of about 10 kOhm for 10 seconds. If you suddenly decide to short-circuit the terminals with a screwdriver, then protect your eyes from sparks!
Next, we proceed to inspect the monitor’s power supply board and replace all burnt parts - these are usually swollen capacitors, blown fuses, transistors and other elements. It is also MANDATORY to solder the board or at least inspect the soldering under a microscope for microcracks.
From my own experience I will say that if the monitor is more than 2 years old, then 90% there will be microcracks in the soldering, especially for LG, BenQ, Acer and Samsung monitors. The cheaper the monitor, the worse it is made at the factory. To the extent that the active flux is not washed away - which leads to failure of the monitor after a year or two. Yes, yes, just when the warranty ends.
2nd place - the image blinks or goes out
when you turn on the monitor. This miracle directly indicates to us that the power supply is faulty.
Of course, the first thing you need to do is check the power and signal cables - they must be securely fastened in the connectors. A flickering image on the monitor tells us that the monitor's backlight voltage source is constantly jumping out of operating mode.
3rd place - turns off spontaneously
after the time has elapsed or does not turn on immediately. In this case, again, there are three common malfunctions of LCD monitors in order of frequency of occurrence - swollen electrolytes, microcracks in the board, faulty TL431 chip.
With this malfunction, a high-frequency squeak from the backlight transformer can also be heard. It typically operates at frequencies between 30 and 150 kHz. If its operating mode is disrupted, vibrations can occur in the audible frequency range.
4th place - no backlight,
but the image is visible under bright light. This immediately tells us that LCD monitors are faulty in terms of backlighting. In terms of frequency of occurrence, it could be placed in third place, but it is already taken.
There are two options - either the power supply and inverter board burned out, or the backlight lamps are faulty. The last reason is not common in modern monitors with LED backlighting. If the LEDs in the backlight fail, then only in groups.
In this case, the image may darken in places at the edges of the monitor. It is better to start repairs by diagnosing the power supply and inverter. The inverter is that part of the board that is responsible for generating a high-voltage voltage of about 1000 Volts to power the lamps, so under no circumstances should you try to repair the monitor under voltage. You can read about repairing the power supply for a Samsung monitor on my blog.
Most monitors are similar in design, so there shouldn't be any problems. At one time, monitors simply fell off due to poor contact near the tip of the backlight. This can be cured by carefully disassembling the matrix in order to get to the end of the lamp and solder the high-voltage wiring.
A simpler way out of this unpleasant situation can be found if your friend-brother-matchmaker has the same monitor lying around, but with faulty electronics. It won’t be difficult to make two monitors of similar series and the same diagonal.
Sometimes even the power supply from a monitor with a larger diagonal can be adapted for a monitor with a smaller diagonal, but such experiments are risky and I do not recommend starting a fire at home. But in someone else’s villa, that’s a different matter...
6th place - spots or horizontal stripes
Their presence means that the day before you or your relatives had a fight with the monitor over something outrageous.
Unfortunately, household LCD monitors are not equipped with shockproof coatings and anyone can offend the weak. Yes, any decent poke with a sharp or blunt object into the matrix of an LCD monitor will make you regret it.
Even if there is a small trace or even one broken pixel left, the stain will still begin to grow over time under the influence of temperature and voltage applied to the liquid crystals. Unfortunately, it is not possible to restore dead monitor pixels.
7th place - no image, but backlight is present
That is, a white or gray screen appears on your face. First, you should check the cables and try connecting the monitor to another video source. Also check whether the monitor menu is displayed on the screen.
If everything remains the same, look carefully at the power supply board. The power supply of an LCD monitor usually generates voltages of 24, 12, 5, 3.3 and 2.5 Volts. You need to use a voltmeter to check if everything is okay with them.
If everything is in order, then carefully look at the video signal processing board - it is usually smaller than the power supply board. It contains a microcontroller and auxiliary elements. You need to check if they are getting food. With one probe, touch the contact of the common wire (usually along the outline of the board), and with the other, walk along the pins of the microcircuits. Usually the food is somewhere in the corner.
If everything is in order regarding the power supply, but there is no oscilloscope, then we check all the monitor cables. There should be no soot or darkening on their contacts. If you find something, clean it with isopropyl alcohol. In extreme cases, you can clean it with a needle or scalpel. Also check the cable and the board with the monitor control buttons.
If all else fails, then perhaps you are faced with a case of broken firmware or microcontroller failure. This usually happens from surges in the 220 V network or simply from aging of the elements. Usually in such cases you have to study special forums, but it’s easier to use them for spare parts, especially if you know a familiar karateka who fights against unwanted LCD monitors.
8th place – does not respond to control buttons
This case can be easily treated - you need to remove the frame or back cover of the monitor and pull out the board with the buttons. Most often there you will see a crack in the board or in the solder.
Sometimes there are faulty buttons or cables. A crack in the board violates the integrity of the conductors, so they need to be cleaned and soldered, and the board must be glued to strengthen the structure.
9th place - reduced monitor brightness
This occurs due to aging of the backlight bulbs. According to my data, LED backlight does not suffer from this. It is also possible that the parameters of the inverter may deteriorate, again due to the aging of the components.
10th place - noise, moire and image jitter
This often happens due to a bad VGA cable without an electromagnetic interference suppressor - a ferrite ring. If replacing the cable does not help, then it is possible that power interference has penetrated into the imaging circuits.
Usually they are eliminated from the circuit design by using filter capacitors for power supply on the signal board. Try replacing them and write to me about the result.
This concludes my wonderful rating of the TOP 10 most common malfunctions of LCD monitors. The bulk of data on breakdowns was collected based on repairs of such popular monitors as Samsung, LG, BENQ, Acer, ViewSonic and Hewlett-Packard.
This rating, it seems to me, is also valid for LCD TVs and laptops. What is your situation on the LCD monitor repair front? Write to and in the comments.
Sincerely, Master Pike.
P.S.: How to disassemble the monitor and TV (how to snap off the frame)
The most common questions when disassembling LCD monitors and TVs are how to remove the frame? How to release the latches? How to remove the plastic case? etc.
P.P.S.: Power supplies and frequent malfunctions of LCD monitors
Recently, monitor manufacturers are increasingly equipping new monitors with external power supplies in a plastic case. I must say that this makes it easier to troubleshoot LCD monitors by replacing the power supply. But the operating mode and repair of the power supply itself complicates the operation - they often overheat.
I showed how to disassemble such a case in the video below. The method is not the best, but it is fast and can be done with improvised means.
DIY LCD monitor repair
A common malfunction is when the LCD monitor lights up for a second and goes out. What to do in this case and how to use this TOP of faults.
It's simple. To repair your LCD monitor, follow these steps:
- Step 1. Disconnect the monitor from the 220 V network and from the computer and decide whether we will repair it ourselves or take it to a service center for diagnostics at an inexpensive price.
- Step 2. If you decide to figure it out yourself, then take the tools: screwdrivers, a knife or scalpel and a soft base to lay the monitor down with the matrix.
- Step 3. Disassemble the LCD display, observing safety precautions and remembering the latches. How they open is shown in the animation above.
- Step 4. Discharge the high voltage capacitor. It is necessary! Especially if you want to achieve a positive result of the repair.
- Step 5. Inspect the board for swollen capacitors, burnt transistors and microcracks.
- Step 6. If any findings are found in Step 5, replace the burnt ones and solder the cracked ones.
- Step 7. Check the functionality of the monitor, observing safety precautions. If everything is ok, then go to Step 10.
- Step 8. Take a multimeter and test the fuses, diode bridge, transformers and transistors. Replace burnt radio elements.
- Step 9. Check the operation of the LCD monitor. If the monitor continues to blink, check the voltage at the test points on the board. This requires knowledge of circuit design, as well as a service manual with an ideal circuit. Further actions are difficult to describe in general terms. This is where the creative process of the Repairman begins. To discuss, write in the comments or contact.
- Step 10: If you successfully repair the flickering LCD monitor yourself, do a test run for 2-3 hours in a disassembled state. After this, the monitor can be assembled and used.
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