The fish swims along the bottom
It’s no secret if I say that most of the time fish feed in the middle and bottom layers of water. After all, there is many times more food at the bottom: various nymphs of mayflies, stoneflies, mosquitoes and caddisflies and other insects, in addition, there are permanent residents there, which include amphipods, snails and worms, plus to all this you can add all the drifting “bio -garbage", starting from dead insects and ending with caviar, which itself floats into the mouth of the fish. The largest specimens were caught by me using a nymph and therefore this method remains my favorite
Mainly feeding by nymphs occurs near the very bottom and one of the difficult tasks is to deliver our fly there, and the second is to make an effective retrieve, and if we learn to do this, then success will certainly be on our side. I studied quite a few types of equipment, techniques for fishing with a nymph, and one of them turned out to be the most effective, which I called the “Bouncing Nymph.” With this style of fishing, the flies remain in the fish’s field of vision much longer than with classic nymph fishing techniques.
This method will be of interest to both beginning fly fishermen and experienced fishermen, who will be able to appreciate all its advantages, because it works almost everywhere.
The "bouncing nymph" method is especially effective when using small flies and when there are picky trout that hang at the end of the stream.ADVANTAGES OF THE “BOUNGING NYMPH” METHOD
When fishing with a nymph on a loose line, it takes a lot of time for the fly to get into the “biting zone” near the river bottom. Having reached the bottom, the nymph does not remain there for long before it begins to rise at the end of the retrieve. When you use weights to solve this problem, the rig quickly catches on the bottom.
The technique of fishing with a High-stick nymph with a high rod is accompanied by a slight slack in the line. With experience, you will be able to hold the nymph at the desired depth and quickly determine the bite, but you will not be able to effectively fish at a long distance. The fly retrieve is short, so this method only works in fast, shallow water, where you can get close to the fish. The slight tension of the line, characteristic of the High-stick technique, sometimes alarms picky fish.
When fishing with the "bouncing nymph" method, the weight is at the end of the leader, and two flies are located above on short leashes. Thanks to this, the flies remain “suspended” above the bottom, and their speed will not be very different from the speed of movement of natural prototypes in a slowly flowing layer of water near the bottom. This method allows you to keep your flies near the bottom two to three times longer than other nymphing methods because the flies sink quickly and do not rise to the surface until the very end of the retrieve.
Since there is no hook at the end of the leader, the rig also reduces the number of snags on the bottom. Several small pellets placed one after another, or other loading options (see pictures below) instead of one large pellet, reduce the likelihood of the weight getting stuck between stones and make it easier to adjust the weight of the load. An Overhand knot tied at the end of the leash will prevent the weight from slipping.
The “bouncing nymph” fishing method “works” on rivers with a pebble bottom and a moderate to fast current. The method involves installing weights at the end of the leash and “suspension” of flies above the bottom surface at the level of the fished objectPREPARATION OF EQUIPMENT
The distance between the foam or yarn strike indicator and the bottom weights should be about three times the depth of the water where I'm fishing, so I use leaders that are 8 to 16 feet long. You can fish the bouncing nymph method without a bite indicator, but it works better when using visual guidance.
To start, I take a 5-7 foot tapered leader and tie on a 3 foot leader ranging from 3X to 6X. A long, thin leader allows the nymphs to reach the bottom faster and stay there, since the current will not push the flies to the top. Use a thin leader, taking into account, of course, the size of the flies, the water conditions and the size of the fish you expect to catch.
The distance between the leaders to which the flies are tied should be from 6 to 12 inches. To prevent the flies from getting tangled, short leashes, 2-5 inches long, are used. The bottom leader is located 6-12 inches from the weight. To make a leader using a Double Surgeon's Knot or Blood Knot, tie two lengths of fishing line. Remove the top end of the line and leave the bottom end long enough to tie on the fly.
This equipment is designed in such a way that its part, located between the weight and the bite indicator, drifts with the current in a taut state, and the cord between the tip of the rod and the bite indicator remains loose. Thanks to this, the advantages of two methods of nymph fishing are combined - with a tensioned line and with a loose line. The stretched part of the rig drifts slower than the surface layers of water due to weights dragging along the bottom. This stretched part of the rig transmits bites better than standard rigs where there is often slack between the flies and the bite indicator.
The indicator bounces and jerks as the weights are pulled along the bottom, but the rig should not catch on the bottom if you use the correct number of weights. Flies should not drag along the bottom; they should drift 2-12 inches off the bottom, so don't use loaded flies.
The bouncing nymph method uses a 9-foot grade 4-5 rod with appropriate floating line. Lighter lines are preferable if you can cast heavy rigs with them. With stronger rods and heavier lines, casting a weighted rig is better, but the stiffness and drag of a heavier line reduces its effectiveness in achieving natural drift of lures.
OPEN LOOP CAST
Casting a bouncing nymph rig is more difficult than casting a dry fly. You won't cast a weighted rig unless you use a wide open loop, throwing your indicator and flies high. Casting with a rod tip that produces a tight loop is fine for dry flies and will only add to the problems if you tie an indicator, weights and multiple flies to the leader.
It is important to start casting without any slack between the rod tip and the rig. If there is any slack in the system, pick out the line or let the stream pull on it to remove the slack before you cast. By using the resistance of the water to help load the rod, you can cast your rig upstream in one smooth motion.
If you must make a dry cast to lengthen the line, pause at the end of each stroke to allow the leader to straighten and the weights to reach the end of the line before you begin the next stroke. Stopping the rod suddenly, creating a tight loop when fishing with a dry fly, will lead to tangling of the rig, so you must learn to stop the rod slowly and also slowly begin the next movement so that the casting is smoother and the rig does not get tangled.
Most often I cast slanted upstream and the flies drift downstream, but you can cast straight upstream or create slack in the line between the rod tip and the indicator so that the line doesn't pull the indicator in any unnatural direction.
Try to keep the indicator so that it is lower downstream than the flies. Then the undergrowth between the indicator and the flies will remain taut and help instantly transmit any bite. The indicator jerks and flutters when the weights touch bottom, so do not hook until the indicator stops or you see something unusual in its movement. Often a tight line and the tension created by the indicator will lead to the fish being hooked on its own.
When fishing in fast currents or in deep places, you should use a Tuck Cast 1 cast so that the nymphs sink to the bottom faster. Combine Tuck Cast casting with baiting for the perfect fly drift. Mend upstream to create more slack or eliminate downward movement of the midline, which could pull the indicator downstream too quickly.
When you are manipulating all the line to the indicator, shake some line through the guides to increase the fly's drift distance. As the indicator floats downstream, you can also lower the rod tip and “shake” the line to “stretch” the drift. If the weight catches on the bottom too often, then throw the middle part of the line downstream to speed up the retrieve speed.
The bouncing nymph method does not replace existing nymph fishing methods. This is just another effective way of fishing that increases your arsenal of tactics. The new method works best on gravel riffles and rapids up to six feet deep with moderate to fast current. A weak current makes it difficult to get a good “bounce” of the bait, but you can fish with it if you reduce the weight of the weights and the size of the bite indicator.
BOTTOM WEIGHTS
The "bouncing nymph" method can be used in cases where the bottom of the reservoir is covered with algae, in rivers with large stones on the bottom and even in lakes. On a bottom overgrown with algae, I do not use equipment with pellets. I make a loop at the bottom of the leader and connect it to a piece of lead-core trolling line in a loop-to-loop manner. Tighten the knot by pulling both ends, and the steel-core cord will not slip off. Lead cored cord lengths ranging from 3 to 18 inches in length can be used. Then the lead-core cord will slide easily over the algae.
In areas with large rocks, use smaller pellets one after the other, steel core cord, soft weights, or twisted lead strips instead of one large pellet to prevent the weight from getting stuck between the rocks.
A weight borrowed from steelhead anglers called a slinky is also good for fishing areas with large rocks. The weight is a braided nylon parachute line from which the core has been removed. Insert a pellet into the hollow braid and melt the ends with a lighter. This flexible arrangement of weights easily glides over large rocks and uneven bottoms. Use a carabiner with a clasp to quickly change the weight and prevent the leader from twisting as the weight rolls along the bottom.
The Toobies-Shot is a flexible plastic tube that fits over the leader and is then clamped with non-toxic pellets. This weight is suitable for locations where the use of lead weights is not permitted by law. Tin, bismuth or tungsten weights are also good. Get used to the idea of lead-free fishing because the day will come when it becomes law. If increasing the weight of the equipment by adding weights is not allowed (as, for example, in some reservoirs where fishing can only be done with “clean” fly fishing), instead of a weight you should use a heavy nymph with a curved hook.
WEIGHT OPTIONS
Twisted lead strip
Tungsten heads fixed with a toothpick
Shots in a tube
pellets
Removable pellets
Soft cargo
Weights in braided cord
Lead Core Cord
Large weighted nymph with curved hook
EXTREME LOMI METHOD FOR A NYMPH
The extreme nymphing method is a variation of the "bouncing nymph" method for catching fish in depths ranging from 2 to 20 feet or more. Where the usual method of nymph fishing is not possible, the extreme method gives excellent results. Depending on your experience, you may lose the ability to fish using standard nymphing techniques in rivers that are 4 to 8 feet deep. And while the bouncing nymph method works in depths up to 6 feet, it is difficult to fish deeper waters unless you use an extreme fishing rig that can catch trout in rivers up to 20 feet deep and lakes up to 30 feet deep.
For extreme nymph fishing, I use the same rig as for the bouncing nymph method, but do not use a bite indicator and replace the line with a thinner one. For line, I use Cortland 444 Lazerline Running Line, which has a 0.022-inch diameter and a 12-pound breaking strength Dacron inner core, or Rio Powertlex Core Shooting Line, which has a 0.024-inch diameter and a monofilament core. The Rio cord is stiffer and less prone to tangling. With a sufficient weight of weight at the end of the leader, such lines “cut through” the water and create less “drag” along the bottom than a regular floating line. The coating, like on a floating cord, ensures normal handling and easy handling of this cord.
Such light, thin lines do not load the rod like regular lines. Using the weight of the rig, cast the Chuck-and-Duck Cast 2 and after moving forward, “shoot” the line. Extra-heavy equipment will quickly “deliver” flies and thin floating line to the bottom of the river.
If you are using a rig of sufficient weight, you can also cast Pendulum Cast. First, pull 20 to 80 feet of line from the reel. Let the rig hang freely under the tulip. Then, swinging the rig like a pendulum and using a single pull, release the cord so that its trajectory overlaps the area where you want to “put” the rig. This is similar to spin casting, but with a larger initial line release and a single pull during the cast, increasing line speed for a longer cast. The equipment has a high speed at the moment of casting and will easily pull the cord behind it. To prevent the cord from getting tangled, it is better to use a special basket.
Cast diagonally upstream. Hold the rod tip up and you should feel the weights bouncing on the bottom. If the weights do not touch the bottom, increase their weight. If the rig catches on the bottom too often, reduce the weight of the sinker. “Belly” on the line is inevitable, but choosing the right weight allows you to get a good bounce.
According to some anglers, the "bouncing nymph" method does not apply to fly fishing because the rig is heavier than the line. Nevertheless, this method is allowed in most bodies of water intended only for fly fishing, and certainly not prohibited in any body of water that allows fishing only with artificial bait. It is effective because it allows you to fish in deep places in strong currents where it is impossible to fish with a nymph in any other way.
NYMPH FISHING IN STANDING WATER
Use a regular rig for bouncing nymph fishing in the shallows of lakes; cast, wait until the rig reaches the bottom, and then slowly begin to retrieve the line. The flies, as if suspended above the bottom, will move towards the shoreline. Choose the cord slowly or quickly to imitate the movement of natural insects. The porous materials used in the design of the flies (back or wing buds) “help” the nymphs “hang” slightly to the side of the main undergrowth. Weights moving along the bottom raise turbidity, which does not scare away the fish. On the contrary, it seems to arouse the interest of trout and perch. These predators approach to explore the cloud of turbidity, see the “suspended” flies and greedily grab them.
When the lake has fish feeding in 5-30 feet of water, use extreme fishing from a boat or inflatable raft. Shoot the line using the method described above, then shoot a few more meters of line through the rings and let the rig sink to the bottom. Watch the cord carefully as it goes into the water. The tension caused by the sinking weights keeps the line taut from the rod tip to the weights. When the weights reach the bottom, the tension will weaken and the cord will sag. It's not unusual for a fish to bite as the nymphs descend, so keep an eye on line action.
When the weights touch the bottom, begin to slowly pull out the cord. Again, the weights will raise the turbidity, which will pique the fish's interest. In addition to nymphs, when fishing with this method, you can successfully use imitations of leeches, crayfish, worms, as well as other streamers.
In even deeper areas (20 -60 feet) where trout feel safe, this rig can also be used to move flies up and down directly under a boat or raft.
I love the aesthetics of traditional fly fishing, but sometimes I just want to fish. There's nothing quite as majestic as dry fly fishing during a mayfly hatch, but the new "bouncing nymph" technique will allow you to catch more fish. Give it a try and you might be surprised at what you learn.
Larry Tullis is a fly fishing instructor based in Ogden, Utah, USA, and the author of six books, including nymphing strategies (Lyons Press, 2001).
photos and drawings from the archives of Fly Fisherman magazine
Nymphs with heavy metal heads have long been used by fly fishermen. Fly fishing experts offer tips on handling these heavy-duty insect imitations.
A nymph surrounded by a bead has twice saved me from failure during trips abroad. Without these baits, fishing would have ended disastrously due to poor conditions. In Mongolia, taimen, due to the high water temperature, stayed in deep sections of the river.
With the help of a large loaded nymph, I managed to reach the bottom, despite the strong current. And in Norway, with this nymph, I was able to “persuad” an inert trout to bite. Perhaps the sound that the bead made when it touched the rocky bottom and its shape awakened the salmon from their lethargic sleep.
Pascal Durantel, French professional fly fisherman
250 kg of fish for 1 fishing trip
The detained poachers told the secret of their success for a good bite. The fishery inspectors were so surprised by the lack of poaching equipment...
Heavy nymphs are used if you intend to fish at the bottom of deep gutters, gullies or pools. In this case, you must definitely notice the often lightning-fast fish bite. The best control over the nymph is achieved when, if possible, it is carried out under the very tip of the rod.
Casting is reduced to a short feed of the fly upstream, and retrieving is only a few meters. Not a single extra centimeter of line in the water, the fly fisherman should feel the nymph bouncing above the bottom. If he does not feel this, the nymph needs to be tied even heavier. It is necessary to respond to the slightest twitching or any stoppage of the cord by cutting.
Daniel Luther, editor-in-chief of the Swiss magazine Petri Heil
Nymphs with a heavy head pose a certain danger to the angler himself. Some fly fishermen have already received an unpleasant blow to the back of their head while casting. Throwing over the head with excessive force does not lead to any good.
When casting powerfully, not only the angler’s head is endangered, but also the rod. A direct hit of a heavy nymph into the blank can lead to the formation of a crack on it. If the rod is then heavily loaded during fishing, it can easily break at this point. Therefore, it is advisable to practice ring casts rather than sweeping overhead casts with heavy nymphs.
Submerge the head or body
The tungsten bead is three times heavier than a regular brass bead for the golden-headed nymph. The heavy bead is located on the nymph directly at the hook ring. This means that the nymph dives with a large tilt on her head. Of course, the nymph can be loaded with lead or tungsten wire on the shank of the hook, then the weight will be distributed more evenly and the nymph will sink more naturally.
Thus, under certain circumstances, it will be more like the natural prototype, which sometimes, for example, in calm water, can be important. Therefore, along with nymphs with a heavy head, you should also have nymphs whose weight is distributed throughout the body.
Guido Vinck, editor-in-chief of the Belgian fishing magazine Beet
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The topic of nymph fishing in fly fishing is a kind of stumbling block for many: this fishing seems so difficult that many simply try to do without it and do not use a nymph for years. Meanwhile, others do not see anything complicated or supernatural in this and get their share of pleasure from such an activity. Meanwhile, nymph fishing is both a simple and complex, emotional and very interesting process.
What is a nymph? If you don’t delve into entomology, then in a nutshell we can say that a nymph is an insect larva, practically the very first stage at which it is located in a long chain of life metamorphosis. All insects that are of interest to fly fishing go through the nymph stage. The most famous and most common in our reservoirs are caddisflies, dragonflies, stoneflies, oarflies, mosquitoes and some butterflies. I don’t know whether it is correct to consider beetle larvae as nymphs, but if one of the fly fishermen demonstrates an imitation of such a larva, he will most likely call it a nymph too. Thus, we can conclude that at the moment, for most fly fishermen, a nymph is a generalized name for wet fly class lures that imitate an insect larva, but not a specific species.
I remember one of my long-ago visits to the Kola Peninsula. I was just starting to fish then, so I tried to do everything as it was said in the few teaching aids at that time. Before tying the fly, I thoroughly examined everything that was under my feet at the bottom of the reservoir: stones, driftwood, stems of algae, and only after selecting a more or less suitable fly did I start fishing. But that day, surprisingly, a completely different fly was working, not at all similar to the underwater prototypes, but more massive, in creamy beige tones, tied on a Wet type hook with an elongated shank and more reminiscent of a bark beetle larva. The fish actively took it, swallowing it up to the gills. Then I did not immediately understand what the secret of success was; Only a little later, having analyzed the situation, I made the only, in my opinion, correct conclusion, which most clearly explains what, in fact, was the matter. The river I was fishing in flowed through a large forested area. Obviously, these larvae (bark beetles) were very familiar to the local fish, and at some moments they turned out to be preferable to other insects.
Nymph fishing time
Nymph is an all-season bait that can be used to successfully catch fish. It is possible to achieve the best results when fishing with a dry fly during the period of mass emergence of insects. With a nymph the situation is somewhat different. At any time of the year, insect larvae are present in any body of water, and often fishing failures arise because it was not possible to accurately select an imitation of the fish’s food item. I repeatedly had to turn over almost everything that was in sight under water, but the result was, to put it mildly, not very good. Perhaps this also depends on the current absence of fish in the intended location, or perhaps the imitations I proposed did not quite meet the feeding preferences of the underwater inhabitants.
During the cold season, which usually begins in the Moscow region in mid-October, the water temperature drops below 7°C, and seducing fish with a nymph becomes practically the only way possible. But this does not guarantee success. Often fish accumulate in a certain place and need to be found. The search takes a lot of time out of the already short daylight period, hence the result: they didn’t have time and couldn’t choose the right bait. An equally important role is played by insect larvae, which move from coastal stones and branches to deeper places, from where it is more difficult to get them to determine the species. This is exactly how I remember several trips for autumn grayling, with unimportant results, when during the whole day there were a couple of pokes that were recognized as bites only thanks to my extensive personal experience in catching this particular fish, knowledge of the river and the food preferences of grayling in a given reservoir.
Nymph fishing methods
Downstream - downstream
If a novice fly fisherman has a question about how to fish with a nymph, then, as a rule, they first explain the downstream fishing scheme, the so-called downstream method. The principle of this fishing is as follows. A cast is made upstream at an angle of 45° relative to the main stream, then mending is done, a special technique in which a loose cord is thrown upstream to reduce the pressure of the current jet on the cord. If you do not make such a transfer, then due to the pressure of the current the speed of the fly's passage increases, and this does not always have a favorable effect on the quality of the retrieve.
This technique allows you to deepen the fly, lower it closer to the bottom and pass it right in front of the fish’s nose. If the current speed is very high or the depth is large, you can make several mendings and thereby increase the depth of the retrieve and slow down the speed of the fly. After deepening, the bait swims through a section of the expected fish holding zone, and then it is stopped. First, the rod stops, and then the entire tackle. When the current pressure on the line increases, the fly begins to float, simulating an insect emerging from the water. This method is perhaps the most common and easiest to start mastering nymph fishing.
Up-stream - upstream
This method is more technically complex and requires the fisherman to have greater skill and ability to use the gear. Judging by the name of this method, fishing is done by casting upstream. In this case, it is necessary to clearly, and often quite quickly, control the wiring, choosing from the water the cord that the current carries to the angler. It is most difficult to do this when the current is fast, since it is not so easy to control the passage of the bait on a taut cord quickly rushing towards you. Often bites go unnoticed, since the fish that took the bait can move downstream for some time. To more clearly record a bite, various indicators were invented. At first glance, the indicator is not entirely understandable and convenient if you use it for fishing downstream, but it is absolutely irreplaceable when fishing upstream. Thanks to the indicator, you can see the most careful bite, even the slightest touch of the fish to the bait.
Once I had the opportunity to fish on a very fast mountain river. In the crystal clear water, the fish could be seen from afar, and they also saw me approaching. Therefore, the only correct way of fishing was upstream. I carefully approached the fish from the back, and it did not immediately notice me, and the fly, thrown onto the stream, swam into its mouth at the speed of the current, without causing any fear. The bites were frequent, but the result was not pleasing until I noticed how a fish rose from the hole, took the fly and, having swum some distance with it, calmly threw it. Of course, I hooked, but I was too late and the fish left. Then I remembered the package of indicators in my pocket. Having fixed one of them in the upper part of the underbrush, I immediately felt the difference, as they say. The bites became noticeable, the indicator either reacted to them by stopping, or sharply dived under the water in the opposite direction to the movement of the gear.
The up-stream method is interesting, firstly, because it allows you to approach the fish carefully without spooking it. It makes sense to make the first casts over a short distance, so as not to scare the fish standing at a longer distance. Secondly, having mastered this technique, you can see the new potential of your gear and understand how great its capabilities are.
Czech style, or fishing with a rolling nymph
On mountainous rivers or on rivers with fast currents and a flat bottom, it makes sense to fish using the Czech method. This is perhaps the most effective way of fishing with a nymph, and I always try, if I come across interesting areas, to fish them in this way. The Czech style involves compact equipment and close contact with the fish. In such fishing, almost no line is used, and therefore many fly fishermen, adherents of the methods described above, do not consider it fly fishing. The issue is controversial, but still other fly fishermen regularly use this method. For the Czech method, you can use a standard leader, or you can tie the equipment yourself. I prefer to tie the equipment myself, since I can make tackle of any power - if this term is suitable for such a very delicate method of fishing. This is how I make the rig.
A small piece of fishing line with a diameter of 0.25 mm is tied to the cord using a loop-to-loop method. When making your own tackle, you must remember that the thinner the fishing line is used, the less the tackle sails in strong winds, but the more susceptible it is to breakage and loss of flies if a solid fish bites. Next, an indicator is inserted, which is made from a piece of wicker backing. Its length can be any. I prefer long indicators, at least 15 cm, as they are easier to see. Another piece of fishing line with a diameter of 0.18 mm is also tied to the indicator using a loop-in-a-loop method, and a leash with a diameter of 0.15 mm is tied to it. This is an example of one of the equipment installation options. The length of the last sections of fishing line is usually selected experimentally, based on the length of the fishing rod and the depth of fishing. It is important that the resulting equipment is able to bring the fly in jumps at the very bottom.
The fishing technique is simple: cast upstream, and then retrieve with a stop at the end of the movement. The big advantage of this method is that during fishing it is possible to fish a large area in front of the fisherman. The wiring angle can be up to 120°, which is very effective when moving upstream or downstream. As a rule, the Czech method is used to fish with two nymphs, less often with three.
Galloping nymph
Another method of fishing with a nymph is based on the wave-like wiring of the fly - the North American method of jumping nymph. If the Czech style does not use a cord, which allows it not to be considered a full-fledged fly fishing, then in the American method they use a cord with might and main, but the equipment of the leader-leash system resembles our running donka. In this method, standard leaders 5-16 feet long (1.5-4 .9 m) depending on the depth of the fishing area. A double leash is tied to the undergrowth, connected from fishing line of two diameters, for example 0.18 and 0.15 mm. A stop knot is tied at the end of the lower leash, and several lead pellets are installed above. Their number and weight are selected based on the fishing depth. Nymphs are tied higher up on leashes, usually no more than two.
The fishing technique is the same as downstream, and the use of pellets as a deepener allows you to vary the weight of the entire equipment and control the depth, almost without resorting to fishing. During retrieval, heavy sinkers pull the rig to the bottom, where it begins to drag and cling to bottom debris. Therefore, from time to time you have to throw the flies up with the rod. Hence the galloping movement of nymphs in the water, and the name of the method.
Choosing the right bait
Whatever method is chosen, all of them, as a rule, use two or three baits at the same time. At first glance, it may seem that this is due to the angler’s desire to catch more fish, but in practice, catching two or three fish at the same time rarely happens. So, last season I had several purely nymph fishing trips, and I always used two flies, but I never caught a doublet all season. A rig with two flies has an advantage that has a positive effect on the result: the ability to fish two horizons at the same time.
The fish don’t always have time to react to one bait, but another turns out to be very handy right there. When insects fly out, you can use three flies. The topmost one, for example a parachute or any emerger, imitates an insect at the exit stage, a little lower you can hang a pula, and even lower at the bottom - a nymph. Such a trio can please with unexpected results. This happened to me three years ago. I fished on one small river, where in addition to grayling, which I usually go there for, . There is not so much of it in this river, but it is quite large by Central European standards. The fish was caught regularly on both the upper and lower nymphs, but it was small in size. I wanted to catch the “freckled” predator, but just then a small riffle turned up with large boulders sticking out in the middle and a clear hole under the shore. As luck would have it, right before the roll I unsuccessfully cast the tackle, and the flies hopelessly disappeared into the dense foliage of a tree branch hanging over the water. I had to bandage the equipment. Then I decided to tie a third fly, above the two nymphs. A small wet fly completed the garland nicely and I started retrieving, worried that the flies were too close together.
The pit was silent, and I was about to leave the place, but at that moment some kind of weight hung on the other end of the tackle, and then rushed wildly along the bottom. I was taken aback by the unexpectedly sharp bite at the most inopportune moment. I saw how the yellow-olive body of a trout, tumbling and rushing from side to side, raises a cascade of spray, trying to escape and hide between the stones at the bottom. Another turn of the fish, and the flies fly out of the water at breakneck speed, hiding on the same branch where their predecessors remained.
For me, that incident turned out to be so vivid and emotionally strong that I still remember it with excitement. What made the fish take the fly at the last moment? One of the flies influenced the food instinct of the fish or the trout simply attacked three flies, perceiving them as something whole that encroached on its territory, one can only guess. But after that incident, I no, no, and I tie three flies in an interesting place. But what if?!
It’s very pleasant that recently fishermen have become more interested in various kinds of reelless gear and a lot of “young people” have begun to join our ranks. But the questions that are being asked, in particular to me, have become an order of magnitude greater, not only from members of the forum, but also from other fishermen who do not attend the forum.
It’s clear that I can’t answer everything, and I don’t know and can do that much, but still.
Now I will try to show how to make a nymph-type reelless bait with your own hands using a minimal set of tools and materials. The “nymph” is classic, but no one bothers you to make your own unique bait with your own hands.
The first and most difficult thing is to choose a hook for a future rewinder. With the abundance of all kinds of gear, it just seems simple. You need a hook with a long shank and a bend like this (I didn’t buy anything special, I rummaged around in the boxes a little):
Bend the hook this way and tin it:
We take a piece of lead, preferably from a cable, and beat it on an anvil:
We attach the hook and cut off the required length, make a cut in the middle with a knife. The tip of the hook should be flush with the body or overlap it by 0.5 mm:
Insert the hook and solder it with lead:
The rewindless jig is ready. To equip the jig, you can use all available means, rods from pens, tubes from VD, film from floppy disks, ground beads, insulation from wires, etc.
We paint and equip.
The hand-made jig without reel is ready.
The working wing is from a floppy disk, the white gaming casing is from the refill of a ballpoint pen, yellow beads are ground off on a file. The head is the wire insulation, white, but according to the classics, red or orange is recommended.
And only after you have tested the bait and are convinced of its performance characteristics, it will be possible to make a sprue for copying, but that is another story.
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