The switch is controlled using a standard TV remote control. Using this remote control, you can turn the light on and off, as well as adjust the brightness of the lamp from zero to maximum in eight steps. The size of each stage depends on the settings of the control matrix (by adjusting three variable resistors).
At the moment of power supply, the switch is set to zero - off state. To turn on the lamp, you press any button on the remote control and hold it pressed until the required brightness is achieved. To turn off the light, you again need to press any button on the remote control and hold it pressed until the light goes out.
The circuit diagram of the switch is shown in the figure.
How light control works
The lighting lamp is controlled by a power regulator on the A1 chip - KR1183PM1. This microcircuit is widely known to radio amateurs. Let me remind you that it allows you to adjust the power (brightness) of a lamp up to 150W by changing the resistance between its pins 6 and 3.
At the moment of supplying power to the circuit, circuit C2-R3 sets the binary counter D1 to zero. At the outputs of inverters D2, the number code “7” is obtained. All three transistors VT1-VT3 are open and the resistance between pins 6 and 3 of A1 is minimal. For the KR1182PM1 microcircuit, this is a signal to turn off the lamp.
To turn on the lamp, you need to press any of the buttons on a standard TV remote control (not lower than RC-4). The system does not distinguish between remote control commands, it only counts the total number of pulses transmitted by it. When a remote control signal is received, pulses are generated at the output of the integrated photodetector F1, which are counted by counter D1.
The average frequency of these pulses is about 300 Hz (for different remote controls and different commands it may differ within certain limits). As a result of counting these pulses, the state of the three outputs of counter D1 indicated in the diagram changes in eight steps (from 000 to 111).
Accordingly, the combination of open and closed transistors VT1-VT3 changes, and the resulting resistance between pins 6 and 3 of A1 changes. By adjusting resistors R7, R8, R9, you can set any brightness control law and adjustment limits.
The logic circuit and the photodetector are powered from the mains via a transformerless source R1-VD1-C1-VD3-VD2-R11. The voltage is stabilized by a zener diode VD3 at 5V.
Details
Capacitor C6 must be designed for a voltage of at least 360V. All other capacitors must be designed for a voltage of at least 10V (this also applies to capacitors C4 and C5, although they are in contact with the mains, the voltage on them is low).
Electrolytic capacitors of types K50-35, K50-16 or similar imported. Capacitor C6 type K73-17, K73-24, or another, designed for operation in the electrical network. The remaining capacitors are of any type, for example, K10-7, KM, KS or imported.
The KS147A zener diode must be in a metal case. It can be replaced with another zener diode with a voltage of about 5V, and if the zener diode is in a glass case, you need to take two of them and connect them in parallel (to increase the reliability of the power system).
A metal case is preferable, as it acts as a kind of heat sink. Glass is more susceptible to failure from overheating. Or you can use some imported zener diode of higher power.
KD243D diodes can be replaced with KD209, KD105, KD247, or other medium or low power rectifiers capable of operating at a voltage of at least 300V.
The K561IE16 counter can be replaced with another CMOS counter with a weighting coefficient of the highest output not lower than 2048. For example, K561IE20. You can also use imported analogs - CD4020 (K561IE16) or CD4040 (K561IE20).
The K561LA7 chip can be replaced with any other CMOS chip that has at least three inverters. For example, K561LE5, K561LA9, K561LE10, K561LN2 or K176 series, or an imported analogue. Transistors KT503 - with any letter index. Instead of SFH506-38, you can use any similar integrated photodetector.
Permanent resistors of types S1-4, S2-24, BC, S2-33, MLT or imported analogues, in general, resistors - any, not wire-based, according to the power indicated on the diagram.
Tuned resistors R7-R9 types SP3-38, RP1-63, SPZ-19 or imported. However, the same goes for any non-wire ones.
Settings
Tuning consists of adjusting resistors R7-R9 so as to obtain the desired adjustment characteristic and adjustment limits.
Brief summary.
Arduino + PSU + Relay + photodetector = control the light in the room from any remote control that is at hand with minimal labor and money.
Chapter 1. As an introduction.
What will be discussed below was conceived a year ago, done six months ago and has not yet been brought to its logical conclusion due to elementary laziness:
waiting for repairs in the room,
Every item must rest before use,
He who understands life is in no hurry.
So, after understanding the plan a year ago, the actual necessary components and a soldering iron were ordered. When everything arrived, in order to delay the start of work with a clear conscience and prepare thoroughly, I ordered more tin and flux. Having received them, I realized that I simply needed a “third hand” with a magnifying glass to comfortably implement my great idea. When I received this too, I remembered in time that I would need a pull-up resistor and ordered a set of resistors for all occasions. After receiving the resistors, my conscience firmly pushed me against the wall - it’s time, brother, to do the job, six months have already passed.
Everything is ready to start work
I needed:
Here I would like to warn. Do not buy kaku type, the circuit will not work. Due to poor quality food, codes will not be recognized, checked. Look for a recommended PSU, this one works great.
This concerns consumables. And I also bought:
(Heats up quickly, there is a regulator, a ceramic heater and does not slip in the hand and from the stands due to the rubber spacer placed on the middle part)
(Tinned, they work well. It’s a pity there is no tip with a groove inside)
(I really liked it when soldering)
(Works well and, finally, almost the same smell of rosin from childhood)
(I checked a couple of dozens selectively - the deviation from the nominal value is no more than 2%)
(Great soldering help!)
P.S. I bought all this, except for the correct power supply, from these very sellers, but a year ago and at completely different prices.
Chapter 2. Implementation.
The material I offer is based on two powerful philosophical principles: Laziness is the engine of progress and “Occam’s Razor,” which roughly translates to “do not multiply the essence beyond what is necessary” or, translated into folklore, “the simpler the better.” Having laid such a powerful scientific foundation, I will begin my story.
Looking at various crafts like “Smart Home”, I was surprised to discover that the most useful (and simply necessary!) solution for me, a true lazy follower of progress, does not exist. All proposed solutions, alas, contradict one of the above principles or both at once.
So, we will talk about turning on and off the lights in the room using the remote control. Wait a minute to raise a cry - “Like, there are as many such decisions as you want.” Now I will explain why I was not satisfied with any of them.
The solution to buying a switch with a radio channel and a special remote control is simply ridiculous. Sometimes I can’t find a normal remote control here, and this one, the miliped one, gets lost instantly. Mounting a backup switch on the wall with a radio channel for the main one did not work due to the presence of carpet on the wall and the second philosophical principle.
That's why first task for me it will sound like this - the light should be controlled from ANY existing remote control that is at hand (from a TV, receiver, air conditioner, etc.). There are always remote controls and AT LEAST ONE OF THEM is at hand.
Task two- a regular switch should remain in place and perform its functions in exactly the same way as before, since when we enter a dark room, we do not yet have a remote control in our hands. I don’t want to install capacitive and other gadgets, let the switch remain as it was, I’m used to this. In the end, it is the fulfillment of both fundamental principles and basic economy.
The tasks have been set. Let's decide.
For those who didn’t open the first spoiler, I’ll repeat it.
We will need:
1. IRDA receiver;
2. Brain (Arduino Nano);
3. Actuator (Relay);
4. Power supply for all of the above.
Due to their size, all modules will fit in the switch box (if there is not enough space, we will hollow out as many more as needed in the wall, straightening the box). There was one ambush here - in the switch box I did not have a “neutral” wire to power the power supply (this happens :)). But, since the room is still awaiting renovation, it doesn’t matter, the necessary wire will be installed in due time (a reinforced concrete argument for conscience!). I did not make a hole for the phototransistor in the switch, since I chose the right switch, which has a neon inside. Accordingly, there is a window with an orange piece of glass. Opposite this window, I glued a phototransistor from the inside. You can also output an LED from the relay there, which will completely replace the functionality of the neon light, which I threw out as unnecessary.
The operating logic will be as follows: clicking the switch will lead to an inversion of the state of the lamp in the chandelier. Those. if the lamp was turned off, it will turn on and vice versa. Pressing the programmed button on one of the available remotes will also invert the lamp state. The fact that now the position of the switch key does not depend on the lighting state does not bother me; I never remember these positions anyway. What is important is that if there is a sudden power outage, then when it resumes, the switch will be in a guaranteed off state, because The Arduino will reset and initialize when power is applied.
Let's start assembling the diagram. Now the switch will supply only one or zero to the digital input of the Arduino, and the relay will perform its own power phase switching. We will connect a card with a phototransistor to the other input of the Arduino.
We write an intermediate sketch to determine the codes of the required remote control buttons, press the selected button on each remote control, get the codes and write these codes into the final sketch.
Having assembled the circuit, we make sure that it is operational, insulate all the components (heat shrink, epoxy, blue electrical tape... (underline as appropriate)) and place it all in the switch box.
Photos, sketches, diagram, video
Let's assemble a temporary structure on a breadboard to read codes from remote controls and debug the final sketch. There is no point in drawing a diagram for connecting a computer to Arduino because of the huge variety of USB_to_COM adapters; everyone will find their own version on the internet. And connecting the photodetector to the same legs as in the diagram below. 
There is no switch in this circuit yet, but it is not needed now. We write a sketch, upload it and catch the button codes from different remote controls. I selected the RECORD button, which I do not use, everywhere. It is she who will control the light from each of the remote controls. 
We catch the result in our virtual Com port. 
Yes, there are codes. Now let’s write the final sketch, upload it to Arduino, remove the now unnecessary USB_to_COM adapter and add a switch to the circuit. It should be clarified here that in one of its positions the switch will supply 5V to leg No. 2 of the Arduino. But in order not to catch a false signal, you need to use a pull-up resistor. The theory tells us that this is implemented in the Arduino itself and in the sketch I give the command to turn it on, but I played it safe and added a real 10k resistor, it won’t be worse, and I’m calmer. And I also removed the phototransistor from his scarf and extended his legs with wires, since the scarf did not fit into the place of the torn neon, but one phototransistor fit perfectly. I grabbed it with superglue. 
And here is the diagram of this farm, where Grd is land: 
And this is the final sketch for 4 of my remote controls: 
And this is what a switch with a window for a neon looks like. 
As you can see, the window is built into the movable part of the switch, namely the key, and the phototransistor is fixedly fixed to the frame. However, this does not in any way affect the stability of the circuit in operation.
And finally, a video of the circuit in action:
In the video, the operation of the circuit can be determined by the LED on the relay turning on. I did not connect the lamp to the relay, because... I checked earlier that these relays handle 300 watts just fine. I've been using them for many years and they have proven themselves to be excellent.
In conclusion, I would like to note that the remote controls work reliably from any distance in the room. There is no point in tightly soldering the Arduino, because... the filling will be motionless in the wall - i.e. no vibrations. But remote controls don't last forever. Some may change, new ones may be added. Therefore, I leave the opportunity to correct the sketch code, connect the laptop to the Arduino and upload the code in a new way. And yet, in the video the LED is not desoldered from the relay, but in general it can be desoldered, the legs extended and glued together with a phototransistor to imitate a neon. But I’m not yet sure that I want another indicator to glow at night, and the remote control beam will find the switch even without backlighting.
Chapter 3. Ready!
Now, before going to bed, after turning off the TV, I don’t need to get out from under the blanket and go turn off the light, but just press the magic button on the same remote control. It’s much more pleasant to get up for work in the morning by turning on the lights from the remote control, rather than wandering in the dark to the switch, risking stepping on something.
This is how my story should have ended, but everything is still on the shelf. Because now I'm waiting for repairs. With an absolutely clear conscience.
P.S. I may have all this lying around for who knows how long, but I didn’t wait for repairs, but decided to publish the material now. In case someone gets interested...
I'm planning to buy +89 Add to favorites I liked the review +72 +162Nowadays it is almost impossible to imagine equipment without remote control. But, unfortunately, not all devices are equipped with such remote controls...
Chinese manufacturers, however, have already begun producing chandeliers equipped with remote controls controlled by a radio signal, but the cost of such devices is quite high.
This article suggests a fairly simple scheme such a switch. Unlike the industrial one, which includes one BISK, it is mainly assembled on discrete elements, which, of course, increases the dimensions, but can be easily repaired if necessary. But if you are chasing dimensions, then in this case you can use planar parts. This circuit also has a built-in transmitter (industrial ones do not have one), which saves you from the need to carry the remote control with you all the time or look for it. It is enough to bring your hand to the switch at a distance of up to ten centimeters and it will work. Another advantage is that DU Any remote control for any imported or domestic radio equipment is suitable.
Transmitter
Figure 1 shows a diagram of a short pulse emitter. This allows you to reduce the current consumed by the transmitter from the power source, and therefore extend the service life on a single battery. The elements DD1.1, DD1.2 are used to assemble a pulse generator with a frequency of 30...35 Hz. Short pulses with a duration of 13...15 μs are generated by the differentiating circuit C2R3. Elements DD1.4-DD1.6 and a normally closed transistor VT1 form a pulse amplifier with an IR diode VD1 on the load.
The dependence of the main parameters of such a generator on the supply voltage Upit is shown in the table.
| Upit, V Iimp, A Ipot, mA |
4.5 0.24 0.4 |
5 0.43 0.57 |
6 0.56 0.96 |
7 0.73 1.5 |
8 0.88 2.1 |
9 1.00 2.8 |
Here: Iimp is the amplitude of the current in the IR diode, Ipot is the current consumed by the generator from the power source (with the value of resistors R5 and R6 indicated on the diagram).
Any remote control from domestic or imported equipment (TV, VCR, music center) can also serve as a transmitter.
The printed circuit board is shown in Fig. 3. It is proposed to be made from double-sided foil fiberglass laminate with a thickness of 1.5 mm. The foil on the part side (not shown in the figure) serves as the common (negative) wire of the power source. Around the holes for passing the leads of the parts in the foil, areas with a diameter of 1.5...2 mm are etched. The leads of the parts connected to the common wire are soldered directly to the foil of this side of the board. Transistor VT1 is attached to the board with an M3 screw, without any heat sink. The optical axis of the IR diode VD1 should be parallel to the board and spaced 5 mm from it.
Receiver
The receiver is assembled according to the classical scheme adopted in Russian industry (in particular in TVs Rubin, Temp, etc.). Its circuit is shown in Figure 2. Pulses of IR radiation fall on the IR photodiode VD1, are converted into electrical signals and amplified by transistors VT3, VT4, which are connected according to a circuit with a common emitter. An emitter follower is assembled on transistor VT2, matching the dynamic load resistance of photodiode VD1 and transistor VT1 with the input resistance of the amplifier stage on transistor VT3. Diodes VD2, VD3 protect the pulse amplifier on transistor VT4 from overloads. All input amplifier stages of the receiver are covered by deep current feedback. This ensures a constant position of the operating point of the transistors regardless of the external illumination level - a kind of automatic gain control, which is especially important when the receiver is operating in rooms with artificial lighting or outdoors in bright daylight, when the level of extraneous IR radiation is very high.
Next, the signal passes through an active filter with a double T-bridge, assembled on transistor VT5, resistors R12-R14 and capacitors C7-C9. Transistor VT5 must have a current transfer coefficient H21e = 30, otherwise the filter may begin to be excited. The filter cleans the transmitter signal from interference from the AC network, which is emitted by electric lamps. The lamps create a modulated radiation flux with a frequency of 100 Hz and not only in the visible part of the spectrum, but also in the IR region. The filtered code message signal is generated on transistor VT6. As a result, short pulses are obtained at its collector (if they came from an external transmitter) or proportional with a frequency of 30...35 Hz (if they came from a built-in transmitter).
Pulses arriving from the receiver are supplied to the buffer element DD1.1, and from it to the rectifier circuit. The rectifier circuit VD4, R19, C12 works like this: When the output of the element is logical 0, the diode VD4 is closed and capacitor C12 is discharged. As soon as pulses appear at the output of the element, the capacitor begins to charge, but gradually (not from the first pulse), and the diode prevents it from discharging. Resistor R19 is selected in such a way that the capacitor has time to charge to a voltage equal to logical 1 only with 3...6 pulses arriving from the receiver. This is another protection against interference, short IR flashes (for example, from a camera flash, lightning, etc.). The capacitor discharges through resistor R19 and takes 1...2 s. This prevents fragmentation and random turning on and off of the light. Next, an amplifier DD1.2, DD1.3 with capacitive feedback (C3) is installed to obtain sharp rectangular drops at its output (when turned on and off). These drops are supplied to the input of the divider by 2 trigger assembled on the DD2 chip. Its non-inverted output is connected to an amplifier on transistor VT10, which controls thyristor VD11, and transistor VT9. The invert one is supplied to transistor VT8. Both of these transistors (VT8, Vt9) serve to light the corresponding color on the VD6 LED when the light is turned on and off. It also performs the function of a “beacon” when the lights are off. An RC circuit is connected to the R input of the divider trigger, which performs a reset. It is needed so that if the voltage in the apartment is turned off, then after turning on the light does not accidentally turn on.
The built-in transmitter is used to turn on the light without a remote control (by placing your palm on the switch). It is assembled on elements DD1.4-DD1.6, R20-R23, C14, VT7, VD5. The built-in transmitter is a pulse generator with a repetition frequency of 30...35 Hz and the amplifier includes an IR LED in the load. The IR LED is installed next to the IR photodiode and should be pointed in the same direction as it, and they should be separated by a light-proof partition. Resistor R20 is selected in such a way that the response distance, when the palm is raised, is equal to 50...200 mm. In the built-in transmitter, you can use an IR diode of the AL147A type or any other. (For example, I used an IR diode from an old disk drive, but with resistor R20=68 Ohm).
The power supply is assembled according to the classical circuit on KREN9B and the output voltage is 9V. It includes DA1, C15-C18, VS1, T1. Capacitor C19 serves to protect the device from power surges. The load in the diagram is shown as an incandescent lamp.
The receiver's printed circuit board (Fig. 4) is made of single-sided foil fiberglass laminate with dimensions of 100X52 mm and a thickness of 1.5 mm. All parts, with the exception of the diode VD1, VD5, VD8, are installed as usual, the same diodes are installed on the installation side. The VS1 diode bridge is assembled on discrete rectifier diodes, often used in imported equipment. The diode bridge (VD8-VD11) is assembled on diodes of the KD213 series (others are indicated in the diagram), when soldered, the diodes are located one above the other (column), this method is used to save space.
Literature:
1. Radio No. 7 1996 p.42-44. "IR sensor in a security alarm."
An IR remote control command receiver for controlling household appliances can be easily made using a CD4017 decimal counter, NE555 timer and TSOP1738 infrared receiver.
Using this IR receiver circuit, you can easily control your household appliances using the TV remote control, DVD player, or using the remote control circuit described at the end of the article.
IR receiver circuit for remote control
Pins 1 and 2 of the TSOP1738 IR receiver are used to power it. Resistor R1 and capacitor C1 are designed for stable operation and suppression of various noise in the power supply circuit.
When IR rays at a frequency of 38 kHz fall on the TSOP1738 IR receiver, a low voltage level appears at its output 3, and when the IR rays disappear, a high level appears again. This negative pulse is amplified by transistor Q1, which passes the amplified frequency signal to the input of the decimal counter CD4017. Counter pins 16 and 8 are intended to power it. Pin 13 is connected to ground, thereby enabling its operation.
The output of Q2 (pin 4) is connected to the reset pin (pin 15) to make the CD4017 operate in bistable multivibrator mode. During the first pulse, log1 appears on Q0, the second clock signal causes log1 to appear on Q1 (Q0 goes low), and on the third signal it outputs log1 on Q0 again (Q2 is connected to MR, so the third clock signal resets the counter).
Let's assume the counter has reset (Q0 is high and the rest are low). When you press the remote control button, the clock signal affects the counter, which leads to a high level on Q1. Thus, LED D1 lights up, transistor Q2 turns on and the relay is activated.
When the remote control button is pressed again, log 1 appears at pin Q0, the relay turns off and LED D2 lights up. LED D1 indicates when the device is on and LED D2 indicates when the device is off.
You can use your TV remote control for control or assemble a separate one according to the diagram below.
This remote control system (CRY) allows you to use infrared (IR) rays from a distance of up to five meters to switch TV programs in a ring, adjust the volume up and down, and turn off the TV when you finish watching programs. The system has 16 levels of volume control and eight program switch positions. The unit installed in the TV is powered by the 12V power source of the TV, so the TV is turned on using its switch from which the latch is removed, and turned off using the remote control.The schematic diagram of the control panel is shown in Figure 1. The remote control consists of a rectangular clock generator, a counter with a variable division coefficient, a control device for this counter, and an output stage with an infrared LED at the output.
The clock generator is made on elements D1.1 and D1.2 of the K561LE5 microcircuit. Items are included to operate in inverter mode. Pulse repetition frequency 1 kHz. Since the switching voltage of CMOS elements is not equal to half the supply voltage, a correction circuit R1VD1 was introduced in the generator to balance the shape of the output pulses.
The generator pulses are supplied to the input of binary counter 02, which is turned on to operate in countdown mode. The counter has the ability to block the clock generator with a negative pulse from its carry output “P”. At the same time, pulses from the output of the clock generator are supplied to the output amplifier, at the output of which the infrared emitter VD8 is turned on.
The principle of operation of the circuit is that counter D2 limits the number of pulses at the output of the generator to one, two, four or eight, according to the high preset inputs of the counter. In this way, packets of pulses of four types are formed, which include four commands: “programs”, “volume -”, “volume +” and “shutdown”.
The scheme works like this. In the initial state, the counter transfer output is logical zero, which blocks the clock generator through diode VD2. When you press one of the buttons, for example the SA3 button, the input of preset counter 4 is set to one, the code for the number “4” is 0100.
Through one of the diodes VD4-VD7, a logical unit is supplied to a monostable on elements D1.3 and D1.4. This one-shot generates a short positive pulse, the duration of which is significantly less than the time the button is held, which is sent to the input for turning on the preset counter “S” and the number 0100 is recorded in the counter.
At this time, the counter moves from zero to the set value and a logical unit appears at its transfer output “P”, which allows the operation of the clock generator, pulses from it are sent to the output amplifier at VT1 and VT2 and to the counting input of the counter.
The counter counts downwards, and after four pulses it goes back to the zero state, the zero from its transfer output blocks the clock generator and the circuit, having transmitted one command, goes into the waiting mode for the next press of one of the buttons. Thus, each time you press one of the buttons, one packet is transmitted, which changes the position of the controls by one step, or by one program.
The circuit of the actuator is shown in Figure 2. Any photodetector can be used, but it provides negative pulses at its output.
The executive device consists of an information pulse former and a command end signal, an information pulse counter, a command pulse register-decoder, a program switching counter-decoder, a reversible volume control and a TV power switch.
The information pulse generator is made of elements D1.1 and D1.2, resistor R1 and capacitor C1. The device has the properties of an integrating circuit and a Schmitt trigger. Its output pulses are somewhat delayed relative to the input ones and have steep edges, regardless of the duration of the input pulse edges. In addition, such a shaper suppresses short-duration impulse noise.
The command end signal generator is made of elements D1.3 and D1.4, resistor R2 and diode VD1, capacitor C2. The principle of operation of this shaper is that in the intervals between information pulses C2 does not have time to discharge, and at the end of the sending, the voltage at the input D1.3 reaches a threshold value and it switches like an avalanche to the single state. In this case, its output is one - the signal of the end of the sending.
Pulses from the output of element D1.2 arrive at the counting input D2 and, after the end of the burst, it is set to a state corresponding to the number of pulses in it. In our case, the AZ button was pressed, and the remote control generated four pulses. Counter D2 is set to state "4" (0100). Under the influence of the burst end signal, counter D3, which performs the functions of a register, transfers the code from output D2 to its outputs; in our case, a unit appears at output “4” of D3. This unit is maintained until counter D2 is reset to zero through circuit R3 C2.
Thus, a command pulse appears at the output “4” of counter D3, the duration of which depends on the time constant of circuit R3 C3. In this case, this pulse is supplied to the input of counter D6, which, together with the resistive matrix at its outputs, acts as a volume control. In this case, the volume increases by one step.
To decrease or increase by one more step, you need to press the corresponding button on the remote control. Each time you press the volume control button, the volume changes by one level. When the power is turned on, capacitor C7 sets the regulator to the middle position.
If the volume is reduced to zero and then pressed on the volume down button, thanks to element D1.5, the regulator moves not to the maximum, but to the middle position. Instead of the middle position, you can set the number code of any other step, respectively, by wiring pins 4,12,13,3 of counter D6.
To switch programs, press the first button. A positive pulse from the sixth pin D3 arrives at the counting input D4 and switches the counter D4 to the next position. The code for the number of the enabled program is sent to a binary decimal decoder on the R5 chip, a positive pulse appears at the corresponding output of R5, the duration of which is determined by the parameters of the R5 C5 circuit, which some time after the end of the burst transfers the decoder to an area that is not accessible to the program selection block (programs from 9th to 16th). Switching programs occurs only in one direction in an increasing manner.
To turn off the TV, use the second button. When you turn on the power of the TV, its switches, converted into a button (the lock is removed), supply voltage to the control unit and the counter D3 is set to zero. The zero level from its second output opens the key on VT1 and passes current through relay P, the contacts of which close the wires going to the TV power button.
After this, the button can be released and the TV will remain on. When you turn off the TV from the remote control, a unit appears at pin 11D3, which turns the key into a closed state, the relay contacts open and the TV turns off.
The connection diagram for the receiving unit (Fig. 2) is shown in Figure 3 for the Rainbow 61 TC-311 TV.
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