BEARING ARSENAL

Pros: Everything is great!

Disadvantages: No

Comments: I bought two pieces 1.5 years ago = normal flight! Plowing in at its best!

Mitrofanov Alexey

Experience of use: several years.

Advantages: Lightweight, compact.

Flaws: Indecently short power cord. There is no voltmeter (a disclaimer follows here: it’s better not to have one at all than to imitate it - with the value “220 V” constantly displayed, as for the weak-minded. The power of 1000 VA declared on the Yandex market is erroneous. This is the model number. In the original instructions active power is indicated as 320 W maximum. With the usually accepted cos f = 0.7: 320/0.7 = 457 VA, we accept the nearest one - 500 VA. Not 1000!

Comments: The output voltage range fully complies with GOST: 220 V +/- 10%. This means that the device will not provide any “improvement” in voltage. But if there are deviations up or down, he does an excellent job. I checked it with LATR: it turns off exactly as stated by the manufacturer 175 and 285 (!) V. Better suited for high voltage. Stabilization starts working after 240 V - the relay clicks and the voltage drops (sharply! It’s unlikely that such frequent drops are useful) to 211 V. At 262 => 230, at 274 => 240V. Overall I liked it.

Experience of use: several years.

Advantages: Lightweight, compact.

Flaws: Indecently short power cord. There is no voltmeter (a disclaimer follows here: it’s better not to have one at all than to imitate it - with the value “220 V” constantly displayed, as for the weak-minded. The power of 1000 VA declared on the Yandex market is erroneous. This is the model number. In the original instructions active power is indicated as 320 W maximum. With the usually accepted cos f = 0.7: 320/0.7 = 457 VA. And if we take into account that the manufacturer indicated a rated current of 1.3 A, then power: P=U*I * cos f = 220 * 1.3 * 0.7 = 200 VA The refrigerator, with its starting current three times the rated current, will definitely not work.

Comments: The output voltage range fully complies with GOST: 220 V +/- 10%. This means that the device will not provide any “improvement” in voltage. But if there are deviations up or down, he does an excellent job. I checked it with LATR: it turns off exactly as stated by the manufacturer at 175 and 285 (!) V. Better suited for higher voltages. Stabilization starts working after 240 V - the relay clicks and the voltage drops (sharply! Such frequent drops are unlikely to be useful) to 211 V. At 262 => 230, at 274 => 240 V. Overall I liked it.

Story trademark Defender started in 1990. Now the brand unites under its name many different products: keyboards and mice, Acustic systems and headphones, web cameras and video recorders, surge protectors and voltage stabilizers, universal card readers, various gaming devices and much more.
The range of voltage stabilizers is quite narrow and covers only network models up to 1 kW power. Country of origin: China.
The maximum input voltage range is limited to 150-280V.
Main purpose: protection of audio, video and computer equipment from power surges and impulse noise. Very often you can find them at radio markets, various hypermarkets of the Eldorado or Technosila format.
Model range of Defender voltage stabilizers:
AVR iPOWER 600/1000
AVR Typhoon 800/1200
AVR REAL 600/1000/1500/2000
AVR Initial 600/1000/2000
AVR Premium 600i/1000i Source: http://www.defender.ru/

Photos of Defender stabilizers


Reviews of Defender voltage stabilizers

DEFENDER 1000VA. It gets very hot, 245 volts at the output, it all starts with broken button inclusions. I have two such miracles hanging...
(http://www.rom.by) Defender - the stabilizer is cheap and not accurate. And perhaps it will also have a negative effect on the sound.

It’s better to buy a normal surge protector. Not Defender. Or connect everything to a UPS... IMHO, it will be better...
(http://forum.doctorhead.ru/) Defender AVR iPower 1000VA has been working for the second month. So far so good. No complaints. As I understand it, the click means that there was a voltage drop. It doesn't click often, but it clicks.

Lots of outlets and a long cord

This surge protector is not a panacea for all ills, of course. But the main protection against short circuits and increased load is there. And turning off the general power with a switch is convenient for my case.
pros: There are a lot of sockets, there are five of them and all with a grounded contact (which has a positive effect not only on electrical safety, but also on increasing the noise immunity of devices). A long wire, it actually stretched across the entire room of 17 square meters. meters was enough.
Minuses: What could be wrong with such a simple design? Except for the materials, but they are quite practical.
(http://abc.ru/) I've been using Defender for a long time. not only multifunctional, but also high quality. Plus, they are available in almost all stores, so you don’t have to look for anything. I read the specifications on the website, chose the one I needed and went ahead with the purchase. Another point - affordable price
(http://forum.ru-board.com/)

Not satisfied with the stabilizer performance

I purchased a Defender AVR Real 1000 stabilizer. There was a small error with the purchase of this stabilizer, there is an option to return it or exchange it, the whole thing takes 14 days. The question is - the stabilizer is stepped, how should it work? Familiarized with the operation of step stabilizers. But I don't like how this one works. It is possible to check it only at reduced voltage.
In general, this is how it works - I measure the voltage in the network 200 - 205 V. The output of the stabilizer is exactly the same voltage. 198 - 200 V. in the network, at the output - the same. As the network voltage drops below 196 - 197 volts, it begins to stabilize and produces + - 230 V at the output. I don’t like this sharp jump from 196 to 230 volts.
I think that stores should indicate the operating principle of, for example, these devices, since stabilizers are divided by type. As an ignorant person, I bought this miracle, hoping to raise the voltage from 200V, which we usually have in our network, to +-230V.
The specifications say the output voltage is 220 V ± 10%. I didn’t even think that it would give me 200 volts. Just like in the network, plus this jump from 196 to 230 V.
Explain, maybe I don’t understand something, how this miracle should work. Why does it only produce 230V when the voltage in the network is low (197 - 196 V), and not at 200 V? I consider 200V already a reduced voltage.
(http://shop.ww.kz/)

The transformer is noisy, there is a big error

At home there is a 1000VA Defender. There are no special complaints about stabilization. Fine. The voltage from 160 to 240V rises/lowers to approximately 210-230. Of the minuses - the trance is buzzing a bit, but this is just a copy I came across. Several more clients have 1500VA. Everything's fine. Stabilization is based on multi-winding trance and relay switching (it seems). Another disadvantage is that there are not so many of these windings, so the stabilization step is relatively large. Plus, it is useful if the voltage in the network is simply too low, or drops in the evenings. It’s unlikely to protect against strong surges (for example, lightning), or rather it will work too slowly. I would advise that if it is inexpensive, it is better to take a crawler. More reliable, more turns, better electronics + there is an indicator (voltmeter) of input voltage and output voltage. (I have one like this at home too)
(http://www.forum-volgograd.ru/)

Small transformer and control board dimensions

Defender AVR Premium 1000.
The inside of the device is made very ergonomically... However I didn’t like the quality of workmanship very much.
For example, some wires were pinched between parts of the case, and there were a couple of foreign pieces of solder hanging on the transformer, which could easily cause a short circuit if they fell off.
The transformer itself, placed in a molded plastic mount, looks downright small. In any case, its dimensions are noticeably more modest compared to the Ippon AVR-1000 and even more so the SVEN AVR-1000. This, although indirectly, speaks quite truthfully about maximum power.
The handkerchief with electronics is also small. on her one unidentified chip installed labeled OMVK2P301, which is most likely a set of several operational amplifiers. The transformer windings are switched by three YX202-S-112D relays with a rated current of 10 amperes, which already indicates a minimum number of control stages. The only pleasant thing to note is the presence of enough large varistor against impulse noise.
Expert conclusion: Defender AVR Premium 1000 is a classic voltage stabilizer operating at 160 V. Among all three models, the device is characterized by the lowest power and weak safety margin at the highest price.
(http://tech-labs.ru/) After the failure of more than one household appliance, the failure of warranty repairs Due to unstable voltage, I had to take action, I bought a Defender AVR REAL 600. I’m calm about TVs and CD players. Although the yellow and red indicators flicker quite often it's clear that all is not well with the tension!
Reliable, easy to use, compact, almost silent, it has helped me out more than once in 2 years, so I recommend it...
(http://utinet.ru/) I was buying a Defender system, and the consultant suggested taking the Defender AVR REAL 2000 stabilizer. Since it looked quite stylish and was inexpensive, I agreed. At home it just fits perfectly into the interior, worked quietly and unnoticed. And then it rained and the panel shorted, so a lot of equipment in the house caught fire, but my system remained working. Then I read on the Internet that it not only reduces high voltage, but also raises low voltage.
(http://odinka.ru)
Advantages: Reliable stabilizer, powerful, I like it connected system unit and plasma TV with the receiver, everything is pulled out, although most of the time our network voltage is 180-200 V.
Disadvantages: Several times after shutting down due to a voltage drop, I did not want to turn on immediately, apparently the relay did not work, I was able to turn on only after a day...
(http://reviewdot.ru)

Stabilizer Defender 1000VA: review and feedback

Today I decided to tell you about a useful thing - a voltage stabilizer.
It is irreplaceable because even in the largest populated areas once, let the tension go away. A surge protector won't do anything about it; all it has are noise suppression resistors. The stabilizer can equalize the voltage in a minimum time or completely turn off the load. Such a stabilizer was purchased complete with a refrigerator in order to serve him.
At that time - the 11th year, it was the best that could be found in the non-industrial sector.

    What is this stabilizer actually like?
  1. The sellers sincerely claimed that 1 kW of stabilizer was enough for one compressor. It turned out not. The minimum is 1.5 kW. When starting the compressor, it is often The refrigerator reset the freeze program and restarted the compressor and so on up to 5 times,
  2. At the same time, the stabilizer clicked furiously and changed operating modes from normal to power boost mode. Power of 1 kW was clearly not enough.
  3. Problems with Defender 1000va began after several months, but at first no attention was paid to them. The freezer temperature increased on the refrigerator and after a while it returned to normal again.
  4. A year later, 200-210 volts appeared at the output of the stabilizer instead of the required 220, although the input was exactly 220. The stabilizer began to do harm, not good.
  5. After days of buzzing The stabilizer has failed. This manifested itself by turning on the red light (red indicator) and reporting that the voltage was so far out of range that he could no longer stabilize it. Repeated attempts did not bring any luck. After a few days, the stabilizer started working on its own again, but for how long? The network was stable at 220-230 volts.
Conclusion: surge protectors from the same company are also no different good quality, now stabilizers too...
(http://comuedu.ru) There is a Defender AVR Real 1500 stabilizer. I read everywhere on the Internet that stabilizers cannot be used with ungrounded sockets.
Mine has been working like this for a couple of years now. But here’s what surprises me: the stabilizer has 5 sockets (outputs) and all without grounding. Just because I’m already changing my 4th adsl modem in a year and a half (they are plugged into the same stabilizer)...
(http://electrik.org)

Defender sound stabilizer

After moving to another area, a problem arose with power supply - the voltage often sags, after one such drop, the CD player simply cut off during playback.
We didn’t have to wait long - when the relay click and the indicator notified about the increase in operation, the tester showed 207 V in the socket. The voltage fluctuated from 190 to 212 V, the output of the stabilizer was from 233 to 240 V.
I listened to the entire disc. During this time, the stabilizer switched three or four times.
His work did not affect the technology in any way; I did not hear any clicks in the speakers. Despite all my efforts, I did not notice any sound degradation - neither in normal mode nor in boost mode (the stabilizer was activated once during the day and was in this mode for no more than a second, so measurements, including psychoacoustic ones, should be taken did not have time).
Except for the relay clicks, the device is silent, you can hear the hum of transformers if you put your ear to the housing.
At the same time, the stabilizer heats up quite noticeably; the floor underneath it becomes hot. It is inconvenient, in my opinion, that the button on the front panel does not disconnect the device from the network - the stabilizer continues to click the relay, but without an indication.
As a result, I can recommend Defender AVR REAL For budget solutions - I don’t think that on such systems you can hear the negative impact of such stabilizers on the sound - without fanaticism and you’re not afraid of the equipment.
(http://electrik.org) Standard voltage stabilizer, its characteristics are closer to pilots. It won’t be of much use in case of serious voltage fluctuations, but in case of small deviations it copes quite well.
(http://utinet.ru)

This stabilizer is a Russian brand, produced in foreign countries. The stabilizer is designed to protect household appliances. The model is supplied in a cardboard container. The kit includes a warranty card and instruction manual.

The body of the device is made of black plastic. There are cooling grilles at the bottom and top. On the top panel of the Defender AVR Initial 1000 stabilizer there are two sockets with a ground connection, and in the Initial 2000 there are 4 sockets. There are also 3 indicators that indicate:

  • Green – network.
  • Red – protection.
  • Yellow – stabilization.

There is a power switch for the device on the front part. It should be noted dimensions devices. The smaller device has compact dimensions, made in the form of a small case that can easily be placed on a bedside table near. Its older brother, the Initial 2000 stabilizer, has noticeably larger dimensions and power. It is necessary to allocate a separate place in the room for it.

Technical specifications:

  • The highest current is 10 amperes.
  • The highest output power is 320 watts.
  • Input voltage – 175 – 285 volts.
  • Output voltage – 198 – 242 V.
  • The highest dissipation energy is 180 J.
  • Number of sockets – 2 with grounding.
  • Body color – black.
  • Wire length - 0.6 m.
  • Dimensions - 140 x 115 x 110 mm.
  • Weight – 1.38 kg.

Functionality:

  • Overvoltage and undervoltage protection.
  • Overload and short circuit protection.
  • Protection against overheating of the device transformer.
  • Impulse protection.

Operating modes

To connect the device to operation, insert the cord plug into a household power socket and turn the power switch to the on position. The Network indicator on the front panel lights up.

The device has three operating modes, which are indicated by LED indicators:

  1. Normal mode (green color).
  2. Stabilization mode (yellow indicator). Lights up if the voltage is high or low and is within the acceptable range.
  3. Emergency mode (red indicator). It works if the voltage is outside the permissible range or the transformer is overheated. At this time, the socket sockets are turned off to avoid malfunctions of the connected devices.

Features of the defender avr initial 1000va stabilizer:

  • Low cost of the device.
  • Enough power to connect two household devices.
  • Good quality device.
  • Fast response time of the device, timely shutdown of connected devices, which saves equipment from malfunctions.
  • No noise (only clicks are heard).
  • No heating of the device body.

When choosing such a voltage stabilizer, it is necessary to pay attention to the upper and lower limits of operation at which the device performs its functions efficiently. If you go beyond the permissible limits of your power supply, it is better to choose a stabilizer of a different brand that has a wider operating range.

    Absolutely silent, it has been working for more than three years and I don’t even bother that something might happen, it inspires great confidence, it’s compact in relation to the fact that it’s not just a filter but a Stabilizer, I looked at the price on the Internet and it’s only become more expensive since the moment of purchase, it’s weighty - that means it’s not dummy, I think it is assembled from decent components.

    A year ago

    Got it for free, compact, 2 sockets.

    A year ago

    Reliability (operating since 2010) Low noise level

    2 years ago

    Excellent stabilizer for TV. Switches quickly when voltage drops. It doesn't buzz. Compact. No smell. It has been working for almost 4 years.

    2 years ago

    It works and reduces the voltage from 238 to 210. There was no place to check for an increase.

    2 years ago

    Compact and quiet. There are no more advantages.

    3 years ago

    Lightweight, compact.

    3 years ago

    Everything is great!

    4 years ago

    The presence of 2 sockets, a wire and a switch :)

    I would like more connected devices, but there are only two output sockets, however, I consider this a minor drawback (I would even say it’s a design feature), sometimes when there is a power surge at night, it triggers, making a characteristic click, but I’ve gotten used to this after more than three years, so that there are really no downsides!

    A year ago

    Weak (about 300 VA), only 3 stages - 1 down, 2 up, at 173 V it goes into protection, although the output is 203 V, i.e. too early. No overload protection, no voltmeter(s). Well, in fact, this is not a stabilizer.

    A year ago

    Not identified

    2 years ago

    Few sockets.

    2 years ago

    Deception of gullible customers in the store, 1000 in the name. Wow 1000 W but no, just 320. The relay clicks loudly when switching to stabilization mode, and this happens often if the voltage jumps from 233 to 239, reminiscent of the chirping of an annoying grasshopper. The following happens: at input 239 at output 210 at input 233 at output 233 stabilization is turned off, I think that household appliances I don't like these jumps.

    2 years ago

    I bought it hoping for stabilization at 220+10%, that is, for example 199-200, and in theory it should raise it by 10% to about 220V. In reality, he doesn’t care, the voltage in the network varies from 180 to 218, usually 195 - this stabilizer does not stabilize anything at these levels at all - ZERO! after this lousy stabilizer, CyberPower CP1500EAVRLCD is connected to the computer, so it instantly reacts and begins to stabilize from 200V, increasing it to a normal level and showing the incoming voltage that comes from this so-called “stabilizer” for 2500 rubles....

    3 years ago

    Indecently short power cord. There is no voltmeter (a disclaimer follows here: it’s better not to have one at all than to imitate it - with the value “220 V” constantly displayed, as for the weak-minded. The power of 1000 VA declared on the Yandex market is erroneous. This is the model number. In the original instructions active power is indicated as 320 W maximum. With the usually accepted cos f = 0.7: 320/0.7 = 457 VA. And if we take into account that the manufacturer indicated a rated current of 1.3 A, then power: P=U*I * cos f = 220 * 1.3 * 0.7 = 200 VA. The refrigerator, with its starting current three times higher than the rated current, will definitely not work. It does not correspond to the declared parameters (operating voltage range).

    3 years ago

    4 years ago