The mouse manipulator plays a significant role in the life of a modern person, and its failure at the wrong moment can cause trouble if there is no store nearby or a spare one. In this article we will look at the main mouse failures and how to fix them. All currently available mice can be divided into wired and wireless. We will not divide into optical and ball mice; we will only note that among optical mice, laser mice are classified as more accurate. Optical manipulators also come in the visible spectrum (they emit red light) and the infrared spectrum; the performance of the emitter of the latter can be determined, for example, using a mobile phone camera.
To repair a computer mouse we will need:
- screwdriver
- nippers (side cutters)
- multimeter
- soldering iron and solder
- heat shrink tube or other consumables depending on the type of damage detected
Typical mouse failures and how to fix them
A mouse is one of the devices whose reliability has been brought to a high level (we are talking about devices produced by well-known brands, for example, I like the quality of A4-tech and Logitech products, and I absolutely do not like the quality of Gembird cords and buttons). Nevertheless, there are also weaknesses in this miracle of technology. Typical mouse failures include the following:
- broken wire
- button failure
- Scroll wheel is broken.
Broken wire and its repair
In 90% of cases, the breakdown of a wired mouse is associated with a bend in the wire at the base of the manipulator. This is due to the fact that it is in this place that the wire constantly bends when moving the mouse across the working surface. Signs of this breakdown are intermittent operation, or operation only with a certain “kink” in the wire. For compact “laptop” manipulators with a spring-loaded coil in the middle of the wire, wire breaks near the USB connector are also typical. Repairing a broken wire is simple: after making sure that you have localized the break point, use wire cutters to bite off the wire a couple of centimeters above and below the damaged area. Next, we solder both tails, observing the color scheme of the wires. Don’t forget to insulate them using heat-shrinkable tubing or electrical tape (as a last resort, wrap each wire in several layers of tape).
Finally, you have to fix the wire in the base of the mouse; to do this, you can carefully cut the original rubber “cable entry”, remove the old one from it, insert a new cable and pour in a little glue; it also doesn’t hurt to glue the cable to the board or case. For further maintainability, I use hot melt adhesive. See the photo to see what it looks like after repair.
Problems with buttons and how to fix them
Incorrect execution of mouse button presses can have several different reasons; you can find out the reason practically “by hearing and touch”. The most common causes of problems with button operation are:
Scroll wheel failure
In the case of scroll wheel problems, there are 2 main reasons for their occurrence:
- Problems caused by the operation of the encoder. Outwardly they manifest themselves in uneven scrolling, which is accompanied by jerking of the page up and down. This problem is solved by carefully opening the encoder and removing dust from the contacts. Another option is to loosen the attachment of the encoder basket to its base. You can see how to tighten the fastening in this video clip
- Problems caused by mechanical damage to the wheel axle. If you overdid it and broke the axle, don’t despair, there are several options for eliminating this damage: you can find a self-tapping screw of a suitable diameter, grind its head to create a semblance of a hexagon (trying it on the encoder so that there are no rotations) and, heating it over fire, screw it in instead of the missing part of the axle. The second option is to find a hexagonal key that exactly fits into the hole of the valcoder, saw it off along the length of the axle, carefully drill a hole in the scroll wheel and insert your new axle.
Finally, a few words about repairing wireless mice.
I haven’t had the opportunity to repair many of them yet, but a couple of directions for searching for breakdowns can be voiced:
- Nutrition. If the mouse is wireless, it means it has its own autonomous power source - a battery or a resonant induction power source (applies to wireless mice that work only on the surface of the USB mat that comes with them). In any case, look at what is indicated on the bottom sticker of the mouse and compare it with the measured results. Pay attention to the fact that the voltage on the battery without a load may be normal, but when a load is connected it may drop. This may indicate that the battery is discharged and needs to be replaced, or that the device consumes high current (short circuit in the circuit, or failure of some elements). In the case of using saline and low-quality batteries, it is possible that the battery may depressurize and the saline solution may get on the board. In this case, you need to wash the board with a brush and ethyl alcohol. It also doesn’t hurt to measure the current consumption and compare the resulting value with the data on the sticker.
- Emitter operation. The most obvious thing is the operation of the emitter, but it is not always possible to see it with the naked eye. If you have an infrared optical system, you can see its performance using a digital camera, webcam or camera on your phone.
- Presence of radio interference. In a modern office, there are wi-fi access points on every square meter, radio mice, keyboards, wireless window break sensors, wireless fire sensors, and even motion sensors from the store opposite can create obstacles to the normal operation of the radio mouse. If radio mice from the same manufacturer are working near you, you can try installing software from the manipulator manufacturer’s website and force them to work on different channels (similar to wi-fi access points, if such a feature is available in the software of your manipulator)
Have you ever wondered how things work, what path they take from idea to implementation, how simple simple things are? How easy is it to make a comb? What about a computer mouse? What about a wooden computer mouse made from a single block of mahogany with an LCD screen, with its own electronic filling and a cable made and braided especially for it? I think you will be interested in my journey that I went through during the 2.5 years of creating my mouse.
Design, construction, modeling
Since I was a complete zero in design, I approached the matter as a complete layman. I bought plasticine and started sculpting the mouse of my dreams.
First, I built a mouse that is ideal for me to use on a desktop. She is big and dark gray in the photo. Then I made a mouse that would suit me as a mobile mouse (small dark gray). And then I took the piece of plasticine I had stolen from the children to work, and my colleagues sculpted a mouse that claimed to be the “folk mouse.” It fit perfectly into the hands of the majority of the male population of our team (multi-colored in the photo). And what? The result is banal and dull forms that we twitch with our hands in every possible way day and night. Apparently, among the three standard mice, any user will find a comfortable one. The triumph of the ideal?
As a result, a mouse was modeled behind the computer, which, from my point of view, pretended to be elegant and beautiful.
At that moment I really liked her. And without thinking twice, I divided the computer model into parts. Elements of fastening and interfacing with electronic filling were thought out. It sounds simple, but in reality hundreds of hours of painstaking work were spent.
After this, the resulting parts were grown on a 3D machine to test assembly.
Material - polyamide. It fits well in the hand, like a glove. All parts fit together, technological assembly also went without problems
The next stage is milling in wood. I probably purchased a dozen different species of mahogany trees, but I started with the sapele tree, the rest of the species are waiting in the wings.
I didn't like the design in real life. The vertical gaps between the buttons and the case looked bad and untidy. Technological “sores” when working with wood are visible - chipping and removal of wood. Well, and most importantly, the keys did not bend, there was no click.
I thought about the design for a long time. Something was confusing, and there was no feeling of satisfaction. Then I realized that the mouse lacks solidity. I decided to return to the original version of the mouse, which I sculpted at the very beginning, only at a professional level and using sculptural plasticine. There are two design options in one mouse. Convenient for comparison and decision making.
After receiving the final version, 3D scanning was done and the surfaces were transferred to SolidWorks.
The second model turned out not much more successful than the first. The buttons were not being pressed and there was no way to fix this in the current model. The model's marriage was laid down at the DNA level. We need a more comprehensive approach with simultaneous control of both design and technology. Otherwise nothing will work. There will be either technological excellence or good design, but not all at once. These characteristics sit on opposite sides of the seesaw. So I throw everything in the trash and start over. Sketch-design-sculpting-testing-growing and so on, but with technological control of critical parameters on the one hand, and design on the other. We are looking for a middle ground.
The third model was made within the framework of the classic product design cycle. I started with a sketch.
Contours are drawn.
And finally, the approved design.
Plasticine model.
3D scanner, surface acquisition.
Computer model.
Then the process of finishing the body began. The body was cut out on a CNC machine, tested, modified, and then cut out again. As a result, only the tenth version of the case turned out to be functional. The biggest problem was making the keys comfortable to press. As a result, in some places the thickness of the wood decreased to 0.7 mm! It took me a year to refine the body.
The wheel and connector were also made of wood.
I laser engraved the wheel with the Clickwood brand.
The eleventh version of the case is coming, to which I will make minor changes. I also started developing a wireless version of the mouse. The wireless module is based on Bluetooth technology, the optosensor is laser. AAA size batteries, 2 pieces, replaceable. When recharging, the mouse will continue to work. All the elements are arranged very tightly, and I had to rack my brains quite a bit when assembling them. A cavity specially cut into the wooden body of the mouse serves as a container for batteries.
Wooden parts
Working with wood begins with the selection of wood. The boards must have the correct geometry, have a minimum of knots and defects, and have the required moisture content.
First, the boards are dried at home. At least six months.
After this, the board is sawn into small bars, which are dried for several weeks at the site of their further processing. At all stages, humidity is controlled by a special device. If the drying process is neglected, the wood loses geometric stability, and the manufacture and operation of the mouse becomes impossible.
The prepared bars are processed on a CNC machine using a specially created program.
From the very beginning of creating a part until the final assembly of the mouse, the parts are rigidly fixed to metal equipment so that at no stage does the part change its shape and geometric dimensions.
The processing of the upper part of the mouse has to be done with pinpoint precision, since its profile is designed for a soft click and is very thin in some places. I control the pressing force with a grammeter. In normal mice it ranges from 50 to 75 GS. I'm trying to achieve 50 GS.
Wood is the biggest challenge in my project. Not only is this the most significant part of the cost, but the percentage of defects here is very high. Wood is an anisotropic material. It may fail, there may be defects, chips may occur, and simply an error in the finishing technology can lead to the mouse body being thrown into the trash. I admit that I am still improving the processing technology, and I am not completely sure that I have found the right one. For statistics: in the first batch of ten cases, only three reached the finished product. Therefore, the part of the technological chain related to wood is critically important for the cost and quality of the finished product. It is constantly being worked on.
In the future I plan to work with bone. In particular, I am already creating a wheel from bone.
Electronic part
I developed the first mouse design myself. The sensor was a top-end optical sensor ADNS-3090 from Avago, the brains were an Atmel controller, and the rest were components from brand companies like Murata, Yageo, Geyer, Omron and Molex.
I paid special attention to the high-quality nutrition of the mouse, here, in my opinion, I reached the absolute level with my perfectionism
The first working breadboard.
In black version, final.
There were also experiments with different buttons. I always tried to choose a quiet mouse among others. Well, since I’m making it myself, I decided to conduct an experiment and make such a mouse and try it out. To do this, I replaced the clicking left and right “micrics” with soft and quiet ones used for the central button (have you noticed that the central button always clicks quieter?). A special version of the board was created, on which all three identical “micrics” were mounted.
I selected and bought a batch of gold-plated connectors for the mouse. As usual, in China. I don’t know about “better contact”, but they harmonize perfectly with the wood.
Screen, firmware
Fascinated by the idea of placing a display in a mouse, I began searching for it among hundreds of suppliers. The requirements were simple: strict dimensional restrictions and the ability to at least symbolically display at least eight familiar places. While I was selecting it, I learned almost everything about displays. They differ by type: symbolic and graphic, by technology: TAB, COG, TFT, OLED, LCD, E-Paper and others. Each type or technology has a lot of varieties, sizes, colors, lighting, etc. In general, there was a lot to dig into.
After surfing half the Internet, I found out that the size I needed was made by only one company in the whole wide world. All other options are definitely larger in size. And even the display I found barely fit inside the mouse. As an option, a custom display was considered, which could be made for me according to my requirements, but this is a very expensive option for me (about one hundred thousand rubles). For the first model, a graphic display with a resolution of 128 by 64 pixels is quite suitable, which is what I chose.
In order to figure out how the display actually looks and fits with my mouse, I had to order all varieties of this display from the manufacturers. What do these varieties mean? The model name consists of unpronounceable alphanumeric combinations like FP12P629AU12. All of them are assembled from various blocks and are clearly deciphered in the specification. For example, the example given can be assembled from blocks FP.12.P.629A.U12, where the type, size, voltage, controller, operating temperature range and other information about the model are encrypted. And the last block is the trickiest. It can have several dozen values, each of which means one or another combination of such characteristics as the presence and color of the backlight, background color, symbol color, and the range of degrees from which information can be clearly read. These are the parameters that were interesting to me.
As a result, “for testing” I ordered 18 different modifications. The manufacturer agreed, but said that the minimum order was 5 displays for each modification. There was nowhere to go, and I had to agree, knowing that 90% would go into the trash can. And then, one cloudy day, the express delivery service brought me home a huge box in which a homeless person of average build could live. The box contained 18 smaller boxes, each of which comfortably accommodated 5 displays, securely secured for a long trip to cold Russia. There was so much accompanying packaging that it was enough for my mother-in-law to cover several beds for the winter.
As a result, after thorough tests on a specially assembled stand, two displays turned out to be suitable for the series. They differ only in background: gray and yellow-green. These are the ones I will offer to complete the mouse. By default I plan to set it to yellow-green, but two more options will be available: a display with a gray background and a mouse without a display at all.
But the main intrigue was what information can be shown on the screen? I was offered different ideas: ambient temperature, indication of the arrival of letters, something else that was not very original.
My train of thought followed a different path. Let's start with the fact that there are two significant restrictions on displaying operational information: the presence in front of the user of a huge and high-quality source of any information (monitor) and the need to turn the mouse over to obtain information. In addition, the screen is small, the resolution is low, and the LED interferes with normal reading. Therefore, I came to only one conclusion: the information should be of an entertaining nature only, the practical value of which tends to zero, but at the same time the WOW! effect should be killer.
What kind of information can have such properties in a device of mediocre complexity? There is not much of it: mileage, time of use, speed of movement, number of clicks and scrolling of the wheel. I decided to abandon the last parameter, since it seemed uninteresting to me. All other parameters are tied to the session (the last time the mouse was used from the moment power was supplied to it, i.e. connecting to the computer or turning on the computer itself) and to the entire lifetime of the mouse. For example, the user can find out at any moment how many times he pressed the left mouse button or how many meters his mouse has traveled in meters today or since the time of its purchase. The information is absolutely useless, but it will help those who are especially curious to understand how much he torments the mouse. If other interesting ideas appear, they can be implemented with new firmware.
I also added general information about the mouse (model, mouse and firmware number, month of manufacture) and a settings screen. You can choose the language and system of measures (English or metric). To store all this information, we had to add permanent storage flash memory to the circuit.
To fit this amount of information, I had to break everything down into screens. Each screen displays one type of information and shows session and all-time parameter values. There are six screens in total, which can be changed using the mouse wheel.
The first option was implemented in a purely textual manner, for which several font options were even developed.
I made a firmware to evaluate how the text looks using the created font on the mouse screen. It looks terrible, what can I say.
Now it has become obvious that the screen needs graphics, and not a set of symbolic information. Therefore, I brought a designer into the work, and together we prepared three graphic options; in the end, the second option was recognized as the most successful.
Of course, this design required higher resolution, so it had to be adapted.
But that's not the end of the story. After I selected a screen for the mouse, I ordered a trial batch for breadboards. As a result, screens arrived, but for some reason the number of pins differed from what was indicated in the specification (datasheet). In response to the request, the manufacturer received an answer that everything was fine, this was a minor modification, and it would not affect the performance in any way. Meanwhile, the missing two wires were responsible for the brightness of the displayed graphics.
It was all very suspicious. And just like he was looking into the water. We remade the board for a modified screen, soldered it, and then it turned out that the screen was completely dim. It's as if the device's batteries are dead. And this became clear after a long and painstaking work of searching and selecting screens, purchasing a trial batch of all modifications and testing them. Time, money, and so on.
But the story turned out to have a good ending. After correspondence with the Chinese, it turned out that the screen can now adjust its contrast directly from the firmware. We repaired the firmware, and everything started to show just fine!
Everything is shown as planned: mileage, speed, number of clicks, etc.
Subsequently, the firmware also changed several times: a setting for changing the language appeared. Two languages on one screen are bad - readability deteriorates, Cyrillic abracadabra will only irritate an English-speaking user, and support for other languages may be needed in the future. The difficulties began when I tried to adjust the mouse travel. It seems that there is something complicated: the optical sensor transmits the increment in two coordinates, which must be converted to a system of measures and added modulo to the current value. That's the whole mileage.
But, as it turned out, not everything is so simple. Two people with mice with the same sensor installed can get radically different results! The thing is that the resolution of the sensor (sensitivity) very much depends on the surface on which the mouse is rolling. The best results are obtained when the mouse rolls on white paper. Slightly worse on wood and fabric. It's really bad for laminate and film. The declared sensitivity is achieved only on ideal, from the point of view of the sensor, surfaces.
This makes no difference to the end user. He connects the mouse and, through trial and error, sets the operating system to a comfortable cursor speed. The system remembers this coefficient and uses it to increase or decrease the movement coordinate increment values.
But it’s a completely different matter if you plan to read these parameters directly from the mouse. The mouse on one surface will show the result of running one meter, on the other - one and a half. Speed will also lie. And something needs to be done about this.
To solve this problem, we had to introduce the “Sensitivity” parameter, which allows you to individually select the coefficient for each surface. By default it is equal to one, which corresponds to the surface of white paper. It can be increased or decreased in the settings. You don’t have to touch it at all, everything will work just fine as is. But for true perfectionists, the leaflet included with the mouse will contain a table from which you can select a coefficient for the existing surface and instructions on how you can independently configure the mouse to show the exact mileage.
During the development of the firmware, another side effect of the sensor was discovered. If you take the mouse and simply wave it in the air, the mileage readings will also change. This is due to the fact that the sensor detects the surrounding space as a certain surface and also tries to obtain mouse offset values. Therefore, you can observe the following effect: you turn the mouse over, look at the mileage parameters and are surprised that they change upward right before your eyes. Of course, you can install a tilt angle sensor in the mouse that turns off the sensor while it is turned over, but doing this only for the situation described is unreasonable. Perhaps it will appear in the next version, but not now. After all, the mouse is raised only to look at the indicators, and 99.9% of the time it is on the surface and receives the correct information.
Cable
I decided to make the cable as flexible as possible so that it would not interfere with the movement of the mouse and would be “invisible” for kinematics. Well, I personally don’t like the “spring” cable.
Sometimes it seems that when creating a product, the cable is the most insignificant part of the product. What's easier is to buy the required amount of cable in the store and unsolder it. No big deal. But, alas, not here in Russia. Sometimes it seems that our industry is no longer capable of making anything more complex than cast iron irons. Attempts to find a cable resulted in a three-week search and shaking up the assortment of absolutely all manufacturers of Russian cable products. It turned out that our standards do not describe a cable suitable for modern electronic devices. For example, a four-core microphone cable with a KMM 4x0.12 mm2 braid has an outer diameter of 5 mm. That's a lot. Older mice and keyboards have a seemingly thick cable that is only 3.5mm in outer diameter. The closest analogue on sale was a cable from the German company Lapp Kabel, but its outer diameter was just 3.5 mm. Now imagine the braid on such a cable. Introduced? I'll tell you that I saw a similar cable on power cords for irons
So, it turned out: you can’t buy such a cable in Russia. Dot. Well, we are not used to retreating. I go to production and try to order, fortunately they still make cables in Russia. And to do this, let’s define my requirements. So what do I need:
The cores are copper, made of braided wires (for flexibility).
Number of cores - 4.
Screen - yes.
Flexibility - maximum.
The outer diameter of the cable is strictly no more than 3 mm.
Color - Pantone 4625 C.
Bottom line: I tried to contact probably a dozen possible manufacturers of cable products; no one is interested in messing with my order. They didn’t even ask what mileage I needed. Bottom line: such a cable cannot be purchased or produced in Russia. Sad. But we are not used to retreating.
I go to Alibaba.com. I find the first Chinese manufacturer I come across, write a letter and literally within a few hours I receive an answer: we will make any cable for you! I'm shocked. I send him the specification, money for delivery, and a week later I receive a sample. Wow! And I lost almost three months, trying to patriotically place an order in Russia. It turned out that the Chinese could easily make me a cable with an outer diameter of 2.5 mm.
As a result: I ordered 4 different samples from China. At first I was not satisfied with the scratchability and dullness of the outer shell, then I was not satisfied with the flexibility of the cable, then again I was not satisfied with the flexibility, and in the end I settled on the last sample sent, which I was ready to order. They couldn't be more flexible. The cable has memory. As a result, I accidentally received a cable with memory, although I wanted one that was as flexible as a rope
I ordered a kilometer, two weeks later I had the cable. Total time spent: six months.
Braided my kilometer of cable. There were two options.
Approximately 10% of the cable was rejected. This is the beginning of the bays, where the braid is unraveling and the machine has not yet entered operating mode. And some places where, for some reason, loops and knots of braiding threads formed.
If the end of the cable is not sealed with heat shrink, it will fluff up immediately, the threads are synthetic! Therefore, the installation of the cable assembly is complicated by the preventive attachment of heat shrink.
The outer diameter of the braided cable was 3.2 mm, i.e. The braid added 0.7 mm to the cable diameter. It doesn’t seem like much, but a regular mouse usually has a cable with a diameter of 3.5 mm, and in the era of wireless mice it seems thick and heavy. Recently, non-budget mice have begun to be equipped with cables with a diameter of 3 mm, and they no longer interfere so much during work; they are almost invisible. But the keyboard cable can have an outer diameter of 4 mm. And even more. But this doesn't matter for the keyboard.
Plastic parts
No matter how much I would like to make the body parts of the mouse entirely from wood, I cannot do without plastic. You need legs, an axle for the wheel, a support for the axle and a piece of glass for the display.
Therefore, I had to order a mold from the Chinese.
After each test casting, the Chinese sent me a dozen samples, which I tested on my mouse.
As a result, I modified the mold three times until the quality began to satisfy me. The problems were different. For example, after assembly I got a problem with dust that formed between the display and the protective glass. It looks untidy. Moreover, the mouse will scratch on the surface, and dust will gradually accumulate there. I had to convert the glass into a container with sides where the display would be placed, after which the contour would be sealed.
The result is something like this.
Refining a mold is not an easy task at all, and changes can only be made in the direction of making the part larger. Therefore, any inaccuracy or error can ruin the entire work. For reference: each revision means a month and a half of waiting for new samples. And the change itself could be microscopic, but necessary.
I won’t dwell on plastic parts; this technology is now leading, and I can’t tell you anything new or interesting here. I’ll just say about the legs, for which I spent a long time selecting a material with reduced friction, after which I conducted tests and “races” of mice in order to determine the winner with minimal friction.
Processing and coating
First, careful work is carried out with the removal of lint, sanding and polishing of the surface.
I had a difficult task ahead of me. It was necessary to stabilize the wood so that the geometry of the mouse did not change depending on humidity, and to protect the wood from working in an aggressive environment (sweat and grease from the hand).
From the very beginning I refused varnish. Varnish is a surface film that eventually cracks and breaks down, leaving the wood bare. Sweat and fat penetrate the pores, the wood darkens, and the irreversible process of its degradation begins. Therefore, it was decided to use oil as impregnation and protection, and wax to give a commercial look.
To make it clear: the tree is completely saturated with pores, which contain either air or the oil of the tree itself (if the tree is a rubber tree). Our task is to fill the pores as much as possible with our oil, which should then polymerize and protect the wood.
In order not to prolong the story, I will say that I tried a lot of oils: linseed, teak, tung, Vaseline, Danish. Each oil has its own character. For example, wax is very difficult to apply to teak oil, while linseed oil takes a very long time to polymerize. Therefore, it is necessary to introduce a catalyst into it - a drier.
I ended up developing two technologies. The first is the technology of vacuum impregnation of wood. It works like this: I create a vacuum in an environment with oil and wood. Air begins to escape from the pores. After removing the vacuum, the pores are filled with oil. As a plus, the tree is well stabilized. The downside is that it gets very dark. Looks good, but not for everyone.
The second technology is surface coating with oil. The oil is applied 1-2 or more times with a non-woven cloth.
Apply carnauba wax.
And rub with a muslin circle.
Then, using a hair dryer, I “dissolve” the dry wax residues in narrow and difficult places. In the case of “insoluble” debris, I pick up a toothbrush with stiff bristles, remove the debris, and then repeat the waxing procedure locally again.
If we evaluate the labor costs of processing, then manual labor for one mouse turns out to be about four hours.
Assembly
Next comes the installation operation, but before it you still need to remove traces of processing from the technological holes. Then, using a special 3M tape, I adjust and glue the legs (the body can move by a fraction of a millimeter, and this will be immediately noticeable: it will wobble like a lame stool). Then I lay the cable, mount the board, support, install the wheel and also, if necessary, adjust the buttons (there should be no chatter) and pressing force. This operation can also take up to four hours.
A computer mouse is a pointing device that allows the user to control the cursor on the screen. This device is quite reliable and, with careful use and proper care, can last for many years. Very often, because of a mere trifle, the owner himself chooses what to do next: throw away the old manipulator and buy a new one, or try to find out the cause of the breakdown and repair his assistant. This is where the question arises: how to disassemble the mouse to get to its internal mechanism.
There are several most common types of computer mouse failures that can be repaired. This could be chafing of the wire when coming out of the case, if the mouse is wired, sticking of a button, usually the left one, because it is used more often, or poor operation of the wheel. These are the breakdowns that can be corrected and extend the life of your assistant.
Although the device of the manipulator seems simple in appearance, problems often arise with how to disassemble the mouse. Depending on the model, it is secured with one or two screws. In some devices, the screw is visible, but most manufacturers hide the fasteners under stickers or bearings for a more aesthetic appearance. Therefore, in order to detect the screw, you need to carefully examine the sticker for the presence of deflections in the shape of a circle; if there are any, then you need to peel it off; if there are none, then you need to look under the thrust bearings. The latter should be removed carefully and then placed back in place, otherwise the mouse will not glide well on the mat.
After unscrewing all the screws, you need to separate the manipulator body into halves and remove the upper part. How to further disassemble the mouse, in most cases, no questions arise, since it is usually not fixed by anything, but in some models it can be screwed in with small screws, so you need to be careful. If the board cannot be removed, then all existing fasteners should be unscrewed.
The mouse can also be attached to latches; to identify them, you need to go along the joint of the halves with a screwdriver and open them. When disassembling the manipulator, it is important to remember exactly how the parts are located, so that later they can be put back together correctly. Do not touch the optical prism or other optical elements. If touching cannot be avoided, then dirty marks should be wiped off with a napkin containing a special liquid for cleaning optical parts.
Many users have a question about how to disassemble a mouse if it is wireless. To get started you need either a computer. Wireless mice for laptops are disassembled in almost the same way as wired ones. There is a silver button in the center of the manipulator; you need to press it, remove the cover and remove the AA batteries.
Use a jewelry screwdriver to unscrew all fasteners. It is also necessary to get rid of the rubberized base located on the bottom covering. This can be done using a nail file. The mouse should be divided into two parts. On the bottom there is a board, a scroll wheel and an antenna. To remove the board, you need to unscrew four bolts. After this, the mouse is completely ready for inspection and repair.
A computer mouse is an important component of any computer. It’s hard to imagine that a PC owner would not have a mouse, because without it, the machine’s full operation is almost impossible. Next we will tell you how to disassemble and repair a computer mouse.
Learn how to disassemble and repair a computer mouse
As a rule, these devices are quite reliable, a good mouse will last for several years, but it happens that over time it begins to function poorly or stops working altogether. Most often, buttons or a wheel may fail. A breakdown can occur for various reasons, but this is not a reason to take the device for repair or replace it with a new one, since the problem can be completely trivial and can be solved in a matter of minutes. Due to the fact that the mouse is not a complex device, you can easily repair it yourself, extending its service life for more than one year. Very often, when opening the mouse, it turns out that the cause of the breakdown was an ordinary blockage, but even if not, then making minor repairs will not be difficult.
To repair a mouse yourself, you will not need many tools that are present in almost every home. A screwdriver, pliers and scissors are the minimum required for the job, but perhaps also a soldering iron. In addition to the lack of material costs, the big plus is that you can immediately ensure normal operation of the computer and will not waste precious time on shopping and workshops.
Common reasons why breakdowns occur
There may not be many reasons why the mouse does not respond to your actions at all or some of its elements (buttons, wheel) have stopped working:
- the wire has chafed;
- the integrity of the board has been compromised;
- the wheel became loose;
- the lubricant used to treat the mechanism from the inside has dried out;
- The scroll sensor is broken;
- the optical sensor is clogged;
- LED is faulty;
- The button mechanism has become loose or broken.
Most of these breakdowns can be easily fixed at home by determining the cause after opening the device case.
How to disassemble a computer mouse
To repair or clean the device, there is no other option than to disassemble the mouse. As they say, our man is able to disassemble everything, most importantly, then return all structural elements to their place and not find unnecessary parts during assembly.
So, to open the case and disassemble the mouse, you need to arm yourself with a Phillips screwdriver, and then begin to perform a certain sequence of actions:
Regardless of which mouse needs to be opened, wired or wireless, the principle of disassembling any mouse will be the same. The main thing is to be careful when removing the cover and board, as some parts are very fragile. After the procedures, the device will be assembled in the reverse order; it is important not to lose all the unscrewed screws before assembly.
Carrying out repairs
Once you have managed to disassemble the mouse, the cause of its problem will immediately become clear; it is possible that there will be no need to carry out repairs, because often the problem lies in a normal blockage. Then it is enough to carry out preventive maintenance, such as cleaning the mouse, and the device will again begin to please with its performance.
You can clean the surface of the printed circuit board using a small brush, a piece of cloth (necessarily lint-free), a cotton pad or a swab. After brushing off the first dust, moisten a cotton pad or cloth with alcohol and carefully wipe all elements of the board, the wheel, and the inside of the case. The optical sensor of the mouse can be easily cleaned with a toothpick and cotton wool soaked in alcohol.
How to fix a mouse wheel
Wheel failure is a fairly common problem. If you notice that the wheel scrolls the slider on the screen in jumps, then most likely the scroll mechanism of the mouse is simply loose. To repair it, use small pliers to press the metal brackets that secure the sensor to the plastic elements of the mechanism. It is important not to overdo it and not break parts. Check how the wheel spins after the procedure.
If the wheel scrolls and does not react in any way to your actions, most likely part of its axis has broken off. Using a paper clip, you can build a new mount. Straighten the paper clip, bend it in half, twist it. Measure the resulting part along the length of the broken part, adding 1–2 mm, and bite off the excess with wire cutters. Now all that remains is to heat the edge of the new axle red-hot with a lighter and press it to the place where it was broken off. After the material has hardened, put the wheel in place and check how it turns.
Wire repair
If you have a wired mouse and the wire is frayed, this can be fixed by twisting or soldering.
Carefully cut the insulation in the place where the damage is noticed, strip the ends of the wires, twist them together according to color. First insulate the twists using heat shrink or electrical tape, cover all the twists together with insulation.
If you decide to use a soldering iron, the damaged part of the wire is simply cut off, the ends of the wires are tinned with solder, and then soldered to the board. It is important not to confuse the location of the wires and solder everything in the same places, because there is no common color scheme and each manufacturer chooses the colors of the wires at its own discretion.
How to fix buttons
It often happens that one or more mouse buttons stop working; first of all, you should clean them, perhaps this is due to plaque that accumulates over time.
When the button still works, but often does not work when pressed, then the problem must be looked for in its pusher, which could be worn out over time, which is due to poor contact with the microswitch. If a small dent is found, it is enough to fill it with a drop of molten plastic so that the button begins to function again.
If the problem persists, it may be due to a faulty microswitch. In this case, you need to unsolder the old switch and put in its place a new one or one taken from another mouse.
Some button problems can be solved without disassembling the mouse. Before trying to repair the device, it would be useful to delve into the mouse settings. It is important to make sure that the sticky button function is disabled and check the drivers, on which the operation of the computer mouse largely depends.
NastroyVse.ru
How to repair a computer mouse
Computer mice, as well as computer keyboards, are among the cheapest input devices. Quite often, users who have noticed problems with these devices have the idea of simply throwing this outdated junk in the trash and instead purchasing new high-tech wireless input devices. To be fair, it is worth noting that not all modern wireless mice are highly reliable. Sometimes even the most expensive products from well-known manufacturers refuse to function normally. Lack of response to pressing the left key, inaccurate cursor positioning and many other typical faults of wireless mice can and should be repaired yourself. Within the framework of this publication, a typical problem with the Logitech M205 wireless mouse will be solved - poor response of the left key.
First, the characteristics of the AA element must be measured. This AA battery must have a nominal voltage of 1.5V. If this value is greatly underestimated, then replace the AA element.
Secondly, check the functionality of the optical transmitter-receiver. It's no secret that the M205 wireless mouse emits infrared waves, so the operation of its emitter can only be seen in a video shot on a mobile phone. Cheaper mice emit red light, which is visible to the human eye.
And thirdly, check the quality of operation of the right and left keys. If the sound of pressing the right key is significantly louder and clearer than the sound made by pressing the left button, then this clearly indicates severe wear of the microswitch of the left key. It is because of the defect in the microswitch that you have to press the left button harder and harder. Why does it fail completely?
How to disassemble and repair a computer mouse
First, you need to remove the battery - an AA battery. It is hidden under the top cover. To easily and quickly remove the latter, you will need to press a special button on the reverse side.
Second, turn the mouse over and look for the stickers on the legs. It is under these stickers that two small self-tapping screws are hidden. Take a screwdriver for repairing mobile phones (Phillips head) and unscrew it.
Thirdly, we pry off the latches by prying on the latches.
Fourthly, with a smooth, confident movement, we pull the upper part of the mouse towards ourselves, supporting the base. If you pry a little with a screwdriver, the mouse opens easily.
Fifth, you need to unscrew the single screw that holds the circuit board in place.
The board is also held in place by two plastic clips, which can be easily pressed out with a flat-head screwdriver.
Important tip: Always support the other half where the battery compartment is located. If this is not done, then there is a high probability that the wires connecting them can be easily broken.
Sixth, locate the microswitches on the PCB. Try using a screwdriver to press the microscopic button on both the left and right microswitches. The click sound when pressed should be loud and clear. If this is so, then the switching plate in the microswitch has not yet reached critical mechanical fatigue, and the special arc-shaped loop responsible for returning the button to its original state has normal elasticity. If there is no characteristic clicking sound or it is indistinct, then it’s time to disassemble the microswitch.
How does a microswitch work?
To repair a microswitch you need to at least know how it works and functions. Under the lid there is a complex structure consisting of a thin brass plate with a spring-loaded arc, as well as three complex-shaped plates at the base. In fact, a plate with a U-shaped cutout and a spring-loaded arc is the main switching element in the switch. If for some reason it becomes deformed, breaks or becomes dirty, the switching will not occur incorrectly.
Algorithm for diagnosing and repairing a microswitch
Locate the pins on the back of the circuit board that come from the microswitch. Connect a digital meter (multimeter) to these heels and measure the resistance of the normally closed contact connection in the microswitch. If the device, turned on in dialing mode, beeps, the microswitch is working. If it does not emit any sound signal, but, on the contrary, shows a certain voltage drop, the microswitch is faulty.
Microswitch repair
As a rule, the vast majority of repairmen do not repair switches - they solve this problem by replacing them. Ordinary users may be deprived of this opportunity. It is for ordinary people that simple recommendations for repairing a microswitch will be given.
First, you need to remove the cover. This can be easily done with a slotted screwdriver.
Third, carefully pry off the plate with the U-shaped cutout using tweezers.
Fourth, remove any traces of dirt and oxidation using a fine diamond file. If you don't have a file, you can use as fine a grit of sandpaper as you can find. Then remove microscopic metal shavings using a toothbrush.
And fifthly, treat the contact heels on the plate with either a file or sandpaper. As a rule, they have an oxide film. The final stage is to place the record in its rightful place and close the lid. Important tip: if you have thick fingers, use tweezers to install the plate.
After repairing the microswitch, it is necessary to reassemble the mouse. As a rule, all manipulations must be performed in an order that is exactly the opposite of the disassembly algorithm.
muzhik-v-dome.ru
How to disassemble the mouse to fix the damage?
A computer mouse is a pointing device that allows the user to control the cursor on the screen. This device is quite reliable and, with careful use and proper care, can last for many years. Very often, a mouse stops working because of a mere trifle, and then the owner himself chooses what to do next: throw away the old mouse and buy a new one, or try to find out the cause of the breakdown and repair his assistant. This is where the question arises: how to disassemble the mouse to get to its internal mechanism.
There are several most common types of computer mouse failures that can be repaired. This could be chafing of the wire when coming out of the case, if the mouse is wired, sticking of a button, usually the left one, because it is used more often, or poor operation of the wheel. These are the breakdowns that can be corrected and extend the life of your assistant.
Although the device of the manipulator seems simple in appearance, problems often arise with how to disassemble the mouse. Depending on the model, it is secured with one or two screws. In some devices, the screw is visible, but most manufacturers hide the fasteners under stickers or bearings for a more aesthetic appearance. Therefore, in order to detect the screw, you need to carefully examine the sticker for the presence of deflections in the shape of a circle; if there are any, then you need to peel it off; if there are none, then you need to look under the thrust bearings. The latter should be removed carefully and then placed back in place, otherwise the mouse will not glide well on the mat.
After unscrewing all the screws, you need to separate the manipulator body into halves and remove the upper part. How to further disassemble the mouse, in most cases, no questions arise, since the printed circuit board is usually not fixed in anything, but in some models it can be screwed in with small screws, so you need to be careful. If the board cannot be removed, then all existing fasteners should be unscrewed.
The mouse can also be attached to latches; to identify them, you need to go along the joint of the halves with a screwdriver and open them. When disassembling the manipulator, it is important to remember exactly how the parts are located, so that later they can be put back together correctly. Do not touch the optical prism or other optical elements. If touching cannot be avoided, then dirty marks should be wiped off with a napkin containing a special liquid for cleaning optical parts.
Many users have a question about how to disassemble a mouse if it is wireless. First you need to turn off your laptop or computer. Wireless mice for laptops are disassembled in almost the same way as wired ones. There is a silver button in the center of the manipulator; you need to press it, remove the cover and remove the AA batteries.
Use a jewelry screwdriver to unscrew all fasteners. It is also necessary to get rid of the rubberized base located on the bottom covering. This can be done using a nail file. The mouse should be divided into two parts. On the bottom there is a board, a scroll wheel and an antenna. To remove the board, you need to unscrew four bolts. After this, the mouse is completely ready for inspection and repair.
fb.ru
Do-it-yourself: quick mouse repair
?tigra_alive (tigra_alive) wrote, 2008-12-15 15:45:00 tigra_alive tigra_alive 2008-12-15 15:45:00 As you know, now we have a crisis, and therefore the question of saving money, even such penny ones as funds for the purchase of employees of new wired mice to replace broken ones, it’s urgent. On the other hand, in the vast majority of cases, fixing a wired mouse is a process so simple that it’s just ridiculous. So I decided to write these detailed instructions for anyone who may have difficulty with this. This is a kind of anti-crisis life hack if you like. I note that a new mouse is, of course, always better than an old one if you buy it wisely. But when there is no way out and you need a mouse urgently, the quick and simple ability to fix a mouse is a big help. Indeed, in the overwhelming majority (more than 90% in my experience) of cases, there is only one failure: the wires in the cable connecting the mouse to the computer break. This always happens in the place where the cable comes out of the mouse. This is what we will be restoring. So, put aside the testers, oscilloscopes and soldering iron, they are not needed. We will need: electrical tape, a knife and a Phillips screwdriver. In the field conditions of warehouses and other premises far from the server room, electrical tape can be easily replaced with adhesive tape, and a knife with, for example, scissors.
A can of plastic cleaning liquid and a napkin are also highly desirable. Before starting repairs, it is very advisable to wipe and clean the outside of the mouse, if, for example, you do not want to catch some kind of skin disease :-) Alcohol or vodka are even better :-)) and a clean rag. In addition, even an optical mouse must sometimes be wiped from below, removing tons of dirt from the places of contact with the table, otherwise the distance between the table and the mouse increases, and it works worse.
The first thing to do with the mouse is, of course, to turn it off. Why scrape off the dirt?
Unscrew the mouse and remove the top cover. To remove the cover, it is usually necessary to move it slightly back and then up after unscrewing the screws. All actions must be done easily, without excessive force, we don’t need to break the lid fasteners, right?
This is roughly what it looks like.
And this is the place where the mouse cable usually frays. Our task is to restore the cable.
We release the mouse wire at the place where it comes out of the mouse, and slightly cut the cable sheath at the edge, being careful not to cut the wires.
We take the tail of the cable sheath in our left hand, all the wires in our right hand, and carefully, using the wires, tear the sheath until the wires are free a couple of centimeters above the place where the wire came out of the mouse. If some vein breaks, it’s not a big deal - most likely it will break where it’s already frayed.
Cores that have frayed are usually immediately visible; at the point of break, the core wire is connected only by a sheath, so the core sticks out at an angle. Such veins can and should be safely severed to the end in this place.
Then try to pull the remaining wires in different directions in the same place on the cable - they may also be torn. If so, they will tear easily. Not scary; feel free to tear them apart.
Strip the ends of the veins. It’s better to do it directly with your fingers and nails - they are thin and there is less chance of cutting the wire inside the core. We are not muslin young ladies, but admins, right? :) Twist them together as in the photo.
Now wrap the twisted core around yourself - this will make the connection secure.
This is the way to deal with all broken wires.
Let's start insulating the wires. Cut a piece of electrical tape (or tape, what do you have there?) 8-10 centimeters long. We take any wire and wrap the edge of the electrical tape around it, like this.
Now, without cutting anything off, we attach the remaining cores to it with the same piece, one core per one to one and a half turns of electrical tape. Thus, we isolate them at the same time.
Untorn strands do not need to be wound.
Cut off the excess casing and excess electrical tape.
We insert the wire back into the mouse clamp. Make sure that the wire does not interfere with the moving elements of the mouse, such as the wheel or buttons. The wire should also not prevent us from putting the mouse back together - make sure that it does not fall into the grooves on the face of the mouse, if there are any, or on the edge of the body where the mouse cover and its bottom will be connected.
Once you are sure of this, insert the front part of the cover into the grooves if there are any, connect the cover to the bottom, and fasten it with a screw (screws, if there are several of them). Remember the assembly rule: before tightening, turn each screw a couple of times counterclockwise to get into the thread already cut with self-tapping screws.
Great. Now be sure to turn off the computer (if the mouse is PS/2), plug in the mouse, turn on the computer, boot and check how it works. Well, or just plug in the mouse if it’s USB.
And feel free to go and have tea. Well, or whatever you have there stronger.
Tags: iron, note for the housewife
tigra-alive.livejournal.com
Computer mouse repair
Today it is difficult to imagine life without computer technology. With the advent of a user graphical interface on personal computers, the computer mouse has become an integral part of it. A modern optical mouse can serve without repair for many years, but nothing lasts forever and sooner or later it stops working as it should. It is rarely taken to the workshop, as in terms of price it will most likely cost more than a new one. Therefore, they usually repair the mouse themselves or buy a new one.
The USB mouse that I will repair has served me for 5 years. The first repair was 3 years after purchase (cleaned the buttons). Recently, the left button began to click poorly again, and this time scrolling the pages stopped working correctly.
Disassembling the mouse
To disassemble the mouse, you need to find and unscrew the mounting screws from the bottom side. On this model the cover is secured with one screw (there are models with two or more screws).
After unscrewing the screw, you need to slightly lift the cover (from the back where the screw is) and move it forward so as not to break off the latches on the cover.
As you can see, in the photo the board with the parts is simply pressed with a lid to the base (on some models it is fixed with screws or a latch).
Cause of malfunction
Tact buttons or momentary microswitches are usually used as buttons. The contact plate of the tact button, which is usually coated with silver, becomes increasingly oxidized over time, that is, the tarnish film becomes thicker and when the button is pressed lightly, crushing the tarnish films does not cause electrical conductivity even due to the tunnel effect. In other words, the oxides interfere with the normal operation of the buttons.
The buttons should be replaced with new ones, but, as always, they are not at hand at the right time and all that remains is to repair them. In addition, restoring their functionality will not be difficult.
Disassembly and cleaning
To disassemble the button, you need to insert a knife or other suitable tool between the cover and its base, and, prying it up, rivet the rivets. I advise you to leave the cover on one rivet, so that later it will be easier to put the button back together.
In the blue circle are oxidized metal plates.
Cleaning with a cotton swab soaked in alcohol will be of little use; instead, it is better to rub them with pressure on a sheet of paper. Grind the contacts inside the housing with a match or toothpick.
After cleaning they looked like this.
Button assembly
Metal plates should be placed with the convex side up. When assembling, it is not advisable to touch the plates on the contact side; for installation it is better to use non-magnetic tweezers.
Some types of tact buttons have rubber shock absorbers; their location is almost impossible to confuse.
After installing the shock absorbers and the upper push-button parts, you can close the covers and then rivet or glue them.
Encoder repair
Surely many users have encountered such a breakdown in which, while rotating the mouse wheel, the page moves jerkily, the reaction is inadequate or there is no response at all. Typically, these types of signs indicate a malfunction of a device called an encoder (rotation angle sensor), which is responsible for this option.
Disassembling the rotation angle sensor
To disassemble it, you need to straighten the metal legs holding the plastic body of the sensor.
Then, by slightly moving the encoder base, you can easily pull out the plate, which is installed to limit the scrolling pitch by clearly fixing the position of the petals on the contacts. After it comes the disk itself with copper petals.
Most often, the breakdown is caused by the fact that the copper petals, systematically sliding over the same place, wear out the body and contacts over time, leaving indentations on them. Due to the particles of plastic that the petals drag (from the body to the contacts), the conductivity of the signals deteriorates, that is, the contacts “get dirty”.
First you need to clean the encoder from grease, dirt and oxides. Then the copper petals can be slightly bent (from the disk to the contacts).
If the grooves are deep, you can move the petals so that they do not fall on them in the future.
It is advisable to apply technical Vaseline to the contacts during assembly; this will significantly extend the life of the sensor.
The metal tabs of the sensor body do not need to be pressed tightly, otherwise the mouse wheel will be difficult to spin.
With such simple manipulations you can restore the functionality of your computer mouse to which you are so accustomed.
Note
If possible, it is better to immediately replace the buttons and encoder with new ones; they will last longer, and you will also save time and nerves.
When assembling the mouse, do not forget to clean the optical lens from dust, dirt and lint.
Good day, dear readers!
Mouse and keyboard are among the most used peripheral devices. This is why these devices, especially mice, quickly develop all sorts of operational problems. This may be poor response of buttons, double pressing of buttons with a single click, problems with the scroll wheel (it moves jerkily), problems with the system detecting the device. Most problems are caused by mechanical wear and dirt getting inside the mouse body. 
If your mouse buttons do not work well when you press them or a double click works, then the likely reason lies precisely in mechanical wear. All elements of the manipulator are made of plastic and with frequent use they quickly wear out and wear appears. When you click, the mouse button stroke is no longer sufficient for the button to work reliably.
1. Mouse button doesn't work
A) Detecting wear is fairly easy. You should disassemble the mouse; to do this, just unscrew one or two screws from its bottom side. Mouse buttons can have different designs, but for the most part they are a plastic part of the top cover (or a separate element), which, through a plastic lever, acts on a button soldered on a printed circuit board. It is on this plastic lever that the wear appears. To restore the functionality of the mouse, you need to clean the surface of the lever using a file or sandpaper, ensuring a flat surface. Also pay attention to the reliability of the mounting of the printed circuit board and the quality of the solder joints of the button.
b) Let’s not go far from this problem and will analyze in more detail the quality of the button itself, or in other words the mikrik, but if the problem lies in the mikrik itself, then we can simply solder it and any old mouse can become a donor or purchase it in a special store, if there is one available nearby. To re-solder the microphone, we heat the legs of the microswitch and pry it with a knife (or pull it with your fingers from the back side) and pull out the switch, this must be done simultaneously and quickly, ( When soldering, it is advisable not to overheat the button). After desoldering the board, it is necessary to clean the holes from old solder so that you can easily insert and solder the working mic.
V) Let's look at an option in which we could do without a soldering iron. To do this we need to disassemble the button, this is not difficult to do. Use a thin screwdriver or a needle to pry up the cover, first from one side, then from the other, and remove the cover. After removal, a button will fall out of the cover, which it is advisable not to lose. The problem is that over time the tongue on the record begins to sag, we need to bend it slightly. We assemble the button and check the mouse for functionality.
2. The mouse wheel does not work (it moves jerkily)
To solve this problem, we, of course, need to disassemble the mouse, this time we will work with a wireless pointing device. And so we unscrew the screws on the bottom of the mouse and remove its upper part, then unscrew all the screws that secure the board to the bottom of the mouse body. Now that the board is unscrewed, lift it and carefully pull the wheel out of the scroll sensor. So we got to the faulty element.
The reasons for the malfunction may be as follows: the mouse scrolling mechanism has become loose, with such a malfunction we could simply press the four antennae with pliers and everything would seem to have been fixed, but with such a repair, at best, your mouse would have lived for another month. The malfunction could also be caused by dirty contacts of the rotating mechanism. So the next thing we need to do is disassemble the scroll sensor. We bend the four antennae that hold the insides of the sensitive element
and bend back the part that is soldered into the board with three legs
after which we pull out the drum, inside of which there are contacts.
That's it, the disassembly is complete, now all that remains is to remove it and put it back together. Take a cotton swab, soak it in some alcoholic liquid and wipe the contact surface. Now we put the whole mechanism back together in reverse order. After assembly, it is necessary to strengthen the mouse scrolling mechanism; to do this, you need to install a U-shaped bracket made of a metal plate.
Let's assemble the mouse and see the result of our labors.
3. PProblems with device detection by the system
Software errors in the operation of the manipulator are also possible. If possible, you should first check the operation of the mouse on another computer or laptop; if errors also appear, then most likely the reason is in the hardware of the manipulator. Software errors are possible, most likely with game controllers that require the installation of additional drivers or software; you can also update the drivers or hardware configuration in the device manager. With standard devices, software problems are very rare. But, nevertheless, if problems arise, try to find and install the appropriate driver. Also check that the USB or PS/2 port controller is working properly. You may need to update your motherboard driver to resolve the issue.
4 In addition to everything, there are also such malfunctions
1. Also, the reason for poor operation of the buttons and scroll wheel is ordinary dust, or rather the dust that has accumulated inside the mouse body. After several months of use, a lot of dust, lint, hair and other contaminants accumulate in the mouse. All this is reflected in the operation of the scroll wheel. The wheel becomes stiff and scrolling may be uneven. You should disassemble the manipulator and carefully remove all dust and other dirt particles. The plastic body of the mouse can be wiped with damp wipes or rinsed in warm water. Avoid getting moisture on the printed circuit board elements, and if this happens, do not use the mouse until the moisture has completely dried (preferably within 24 hours).
2. Another cause of problems with the mouse may be a broken wire. Due to vigorous use of the manipulator, thin wiring often breaks at the point where it is soldered to the mouse board or on the connector. In this case, you should also disassemble the mouse and look at the place where the wires are soldered, and also check the connector. If a broken wire or a soldered connector leg is detected, the fault must be corrected. If you do not have sufficient skills, then contact a specialist.
3. The next problem with the mouse may lie in the connector connecting the device to the computer. Modern manipulators are connected via a USB connector, but there are still devices on sale for connecting via a PS/2 port. It is this port that often causes various malfunctions. It's all about unreliable contacts and the ability of thin connector pins to easily bend and break off. If the contacts are wrinkled, they should be carefully aligned. In this case, you should be careful not to damage adjacent contacts. With a USB connector, problems with poor contact are less common and occur when the device is connected to a heavily dirty port.
Other errors in the operation of the mouse are most likely associated with the output of the device’s radio elements, and in this case, repairing the mouse yourself without special equipment is problematic. All that remains is to buy a new mouse.
Good luck to everyone and see you for the new renovation.
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