How to connect a grounding switch. Connection diagram of a switch to a light bulb: installation practice. Connection diagrams for a two-key switch

With development, humanity has invented an irreplaceable thing: electricity, without it it is difficult to imagine modern life. Thanks to this, in addition to sockets, light switches are always installed in every room. A switch is a structure that mechanically closes/opens an electrical circuit, allowing the light bulb to turn on or off.

Division of switches into types

Before we discuss the topic of connecting the switch, let’s consider what options are provided by the manufacturers. Household switches are divided into several types:

With one on/off key

This type of switch is more primitive in structure. It contains a functioning module with a set of contacts; fastenings made in the form of metal antennae; frame; movable power key.

The main components are usually made of metal to improve contact. Sometimes you can find switch housings made from ceramics. Such elements are more resistant to electrical loads and can withstand about 32 A. But more often the switch body is made of plastic. Such raw materials are cheaper than ceramics, but the load on them should be lower (no more than 16 A).

This type of switch is selected if the lighting fixture has one lamp. It is possible to distinguish a subtype in switches with one key: backlit switches. The housing contains an LED light that helps locate the switch in a completely dark room.

When are switches used? If the light sources in the room do not require connection directly to the network using a cord, then a wall switch is installed in it. They are designed for chandeliers on the ceiling or lamps on the wall

Before choosing a switch, you need to consider the humidity in the room. For rooms with high humidity, it is worth selecting switches with more high degree protection (IP 40).

Switches with multiple keys (usually their number does not exceed three)

In general, the structure of such switches is similar to the structure of single-key switches. The main difference is that an individual key closes/opens its individual lighting device. For large rooms, switches with a large number of keys have been developed. Examples of such switches can be studied in photographs in specialized literature or on the Internet.

Wall-mounted switches

Such switches are clearly visible and are used if the electrical wiring goes over the wall.

In-wall switches

This type of switch is installed in modern apartments where the electrical wiring is hidden in the wall. These switches fit harmoniously into the interior and do not attract attention.

The switch - remote control - has also now become widespread. Modern devices lighting comes together with remote controls. They allow you to adjust the desired flow and shade of light.

The remote controls have the function of turning on all the light bulbs of a lighting fixture or, conversely, creating a subdued atmosphere by extinguishing some of the light bulbs.

How to choose a switch location

Before you begin installing the switch, you should decide on its location. It is necessary to weigh all the pros and cons of its location. The most common location of switches is near the door. This is convenient when you can control the light in the entire room when leaving or entering. Other options are also possible. For example, switches are located at the head of the bed.

Before you begin installing the switch, you need to understand its connection diagram. Regulatory regulations for installation should be taken into account: the switch cannot be located closer than sixty cm from the shower stall and at least half a meter from the gas branch.

According to them, you also need to step back about 10 cm from the doors and almost a meter from the floor. In rooms with high humidity and large temperature changes, you should avoid installing switches.

Instructions for connecting a switch indoors

Before starting installation work, you need to study the instructions for connecting switches and prepare all the necessary equipment: a knife, pliers, a screwdriver, a voltage indicator, gloves and glasses. After the tools are prepared, you can begin installation work.

The very first thing that needs to be done is to turn off the power to the apartment. In this case, it is necessary to de-energize the entire apartment, and not just the room in which the switch is planned to be installed.

Now it’s worth using a voltage indicator and inspecting all the wiring to confirm its safety and not receive a current discharge.

The second stage when installing a switch is the immediate preparation of the place where the switch will be located. This place should be thoroughly cleaned of the paint layer, dust and dirt should be removed. They will not allow the switch to be installed properly or leveled.

If the switch is after purchase, you must first unscrew it using a screwdriver. It is necessary to free the box from internal components. This will facilitate the process of connecting electrical wires to the closing contacts of the switch.

We proceed directly to connecting the wiring to the switch. Using pliers, you should remove unnecessary wires, leaving no more than fifteen cm. This size of wires is enough to conveniently mount the switch. If the wiring exceeds the specified length, they will not be hidden inside the breaker box.

Once you have removed the unnecessary wires, you can begin to perform a rather important step. Using pliers, you need to strip about two cm of the wiring, removing the outer insulation.

If the gap between the cleaned wires is made larger, there is a possibility of a short circuit during operation of the switch. To make it easier to connect the wires to the contacts, it is better to bend them.

Direct connection of the switch

You can learn how to properly connect a switch from various literature sources. It is worth noting that inside the wiring there are wires of different colors. Usually this is a brown wire that is responsible for the phase. And the yellow-green wire, which is responsible for grounding. When connecting wires to contacts, it is important not to confuse them.

You can distinguish the difference when installing switches with one or more keys. Basic rule: the brown wire is connected to the disconnector with the L symbol.

The placed wires must be clamped with the screws that come with each switch. Be sure to check the reliability of the attached wires. If the ends of the wires are not tightened enough, the contact will be interrupted and the switch will not function.

The span of connected wiring should be folded so that they fit in the switch box. When arranging the wires, you need to leave room for the switch itself to fit. By attaching the switch body, it can be lightly secured with screws. They do not need to be screwed in all the way; first, the switch needs to be aligned.

You can level the switch using a level that you prepared in advance. After the switch is aligned, be sure to tighten the screws tighter. The main thing is not to cut the thread on the screw head; if necessary, this will prevent its dismantling.

The final stage is the process of installing the housing and the switch key. This procedure is performed by hand, lightly pressing these parts to the places where they were at the very beginning.

If, after turning on the electricity in the apartment, the light in the room turns on using the installed switch, then the connection was successful.

Thanks to this detailed article, you can be convinced that installing the switch yourself is quite possible. The main thing is to prepare everything and carefully follow the instructions.

Photo - instructions on how to connect the switch yourself

This article will talk about connecting a light switch in an apartment with one connected lamp. Previously, this was a simple matter - two wires, plug a switch into the gap and that’s it. But the days of Khrushchev-era buildings and socket buildings with simple electrical networks are over, and in modern houses everything is somewhat more complicated. In fact, for a more or less technically knowledgeable person, this is a simple matter that requires only: basic knowledge about electricity and the operation of the switch, a flat-head and Phillips screwdriver, a voltage indicator (optional).

The article is divided into two stages:

1. The first stage is theory, or what the connection diagram of a switch with a lamp looks like.
2. The second stage is practice. Let's take the tools and get to work.

Schematic diagram of connection

The light switch looks like this in the diagram:

This simplest scheme. In order for a standard 220 V lamp to be turned on, two wires must be connected: phase (L) and neutral (N).

When the electrical circuit is not interrupted and an electric potential arises in the phase wire, current flows through the lamp and the lamp lights up. A light switch has the job of closing or opening an electrical circuit to turn on or turn off a lamp. In addition, a protective (grounding) conductor must be connected to the protective terminal of the lamp to equalize the potential of the lamp body with the ground potential. This is protection from defeat electric shock needed, for example, when touching the body of a damaged light bulb.

The following diagram is closer to modern times:

Here a 3-wire power cable is supplied to the electrical unit.

• bronze wire - phase
• blue wire - neutral
• yellow-green - protective wire

An additional cable is routed from the electrical box to the lamp. As we have already determined, a light switch has the task of interrupting the circuit in only one place, and that place is the phase wire.

Attention! If you made a mistake and connected the neutral wire to the switch instead of the phase wire (and the phase wires will go directly to the consumer), everything will work - when pressed, the lamp will light up or go out. However, a problem will arise that despite the light bulb being turned off, electric potential will be supplied to the lamp itself. This creates an additional risk of electric shock if you want to replace the lamp with the lights turned off - the phase will still be present on the wires and on the lamp. As a result, during any work to replace a burnt-out lamp, it will be necessary to turn off the voltage in the home switchgear(open the circuit using circuit breakers). In general, it is better to do it as expected.

For the above diagram in the example considered, we will add two more elements that may not be used if there is a circuit breaker, but it is worth mentioning them anyway. These elements are:

• The three-wire power cord goes to the next switch.
• The fourth wire (black) in the cable is between the box (this is the hole in the wall for the switch) and the lamp.

This currently unconnected conductor may be useful in the future, for example when it is necessary to install a double switch and a lamp with many bulbs to selectively turn the light on at different brightness levels.

What does the switch look like?

Here is an example of a classic dark gray switch.

There are many holes here, but we will only be interested in the 4 located in the red rectangle. These are equivalent to terminals 1 and 2 in the diagrams above. The other holes in the switch have no function. In addition, at the top and bottom there are gray plastic elements for snapping the case into place.

Returning to the face of the switch, after removing the key (usually with your fingers, pressing slightly towards you), we see a plastic piece that is used to attach the key and switch. It is not needed during assembly, so we slightly pry it with a flat screwdriver and remove it.

Installation of a single-key switch

According to the diagram, 3 wires are freed from external insulation: the bottom 3-wire harness is power, the top 4-wire cable is connected to the lamp, and the 3-wire cable on the right goes to the next switch (you probably won’t have one).

When you collect or replace circuit breaker, you may have a slightly different wiring diagram:

• There may not be a 3-wire cable to feed to another lamp.
• The network can be two-wire (without a protective conductor). There can only be two wires in the box (if yes, then the neutral and protective conductors are connected in another place, for example, in a box under the ceiling.

To make sure there is no power, use a voltage tester (probe) to check if there is a 220 V potential on the power cord wires.

The next step is to remove the insulation from the ends of the cable. It is better to perform this operation using an insulation stripper. If you don’t have one (most likely you don’t), take a mounting knife and trim the ends 20 mm.

After stripping the insulation, connect the neutral wires using the electrical connector.

There was no blue wire in the four wire cable to the lamp. We will use gray as a neutral. To avoid future misunderstandings, it is advisable to wrap the end of the incorrectly colored cable with insulating tape.

We connect the protective wires in the same way.

The connecting neutral and protective wires are hidden inside the box. In this case, there are three phase wires left that must be connected to the switch.

On one side of the switch we insert a phase wire going to the circuit breaker.

On the other side of the switch is a phase wire that leads to the lamp.

Assembling the switch. Lightly tighten the screws alternately so that you can align the switch evenly in the wall. Depending on the manufacturer, the method of fastening and connecting the wires may vary.

Place the key on the mechanism.

Sometimes the plastic decorative casing is put on first, and the key is at the very end.

You can carry out electrical installation work to connect such switches yourself, for which you should consider all the features of the device, connection diagrams and other nuances.

The design of modern switches is simple, but at the same time quite fragile.

It is often represented by the following elements:

1. Key- an element that is used when using a switch. It is worth noting that it is quite easy to remove it, since it is attached to plugs. A slight impact will allow you to remove the key itself from its seat.
2. After the key has been removed, you can see the screws securing the switch to the . They hold the body in place.
3. Also, there are screws in the case, which are designed for fastening the electrical cable. They also conduct electricity when unscrewed or tightened when the circuit is de-energized.

When considering the design, it is worth turning off the electricity supply and checking the presence of voltage using an indicator. The plastic parts of the structure do not conduct electricity, but there are elements inside that are energized.

Connection diagram

In order to correctly connect the switch, you should pay attention to the connection diagram.

It often consists of the following elements:

1. Machine, which can be located in an apartment or on a stretch site. It is triggered by a short circuit or a strong power surge and allows you to de-energize one or several rooms at once, depending on the type of power circuit that was used.
2. , in which an electrical cable is often connected or branched.
3. Switch.
4. Electricity consumer.

The detailed connection diagram is as follows:

1. From an apartment panel or machine 2 cables are supplied: one phase and “zero”.
2. Zero goes directly to the electricity consumer.
3. Phase goes to a single key switch.
4. Closed the circuit is open, the phase is broken at the switch.
5. Second part The circuit breaker goes through the box to the energy consumer.
6. When turned on the circuit is connected.

In a similar way, a regular energy consumer is connected. The scheme is simple, and you don’t need any special skills or knowledge to create it.

A special feature of connecting a switch with 1 key is the supply of only 1 wire with a phase to the switch and its output, for example, to a lamp. In order for the circuit breaker to operate, a “zero” must also be connected to the electricity consumer.

Required tools and materials

voltage indicator

In order to carry out the work yourself you need to have the following tools:

1. Indicator- a special device that allows you to determine the presence of current in a conductor. Without this tool, no work with electricity is carried out. The cost of the indicator is low.
2. Screwdriver is needed in order to disassemble the switch and clamp the cable into the mounting sockets. When choosing, it is worth considering that manufacturers often use figured bolts. The screwdriver must have a handle made of insulating material. The longer the shaft, the more protection the screwdriver has.
3. Pliers will be needed to clean the cable and fit it to the mounting sockets. You should also use pliers with handles that are made of insulating material.

Also, do not forget that the housing socket must be precisely adjusted to certain dimensions. Depending on what material the base is made of, you can use a hammer drill or other tools to create a recess.

During the work you may need the following materials:

1. Cable, which is selected taking into account the emerging load.
2. Insulation material, which is represented by electrical tape.
3. Junction box.
4. The switch itself.

Having the above materials and tools available, you can get to work.

Step-by-step installation instructions

The installation work of the connection diagram in question is carried out in several stages.

At the same time, you should first think about the location of all elements and take into account their features:

1. The first stage can be called placing the distribution box. When choosing its location, you need to consider the following:
   • Should be located away from water or sources of moisture.
   • If possible, the junction box is recessed into the wall. We are creating a niche for it.
   • When choosing a location, you need to take into account the location of all the elements of the circuit and choose the shortest path to connect them. After the location has been chosen, we install the distribution box.
2. Next step can be called creating grooves for a cable or a protective box if it is not deepened. The cable is laid and routed through the junction box. When cutting the cable at the power source, consumer and switch, you should leave a margin. Connecting to the power source is done last.
3. Third stage can be called creating a landing niche for the switch box. The most suitable location is selected and a hole is formed that is precisely adjusted to the dimensions of the housing. If fastening will be carried out from above, we simply outline the locations. After this we carry out the following work:
   • We insert the box into the niche and fasten it using screws that need to be tightened until it stops.
   • The ends of the cable, which were previously stripped, should be shortened to the required length, inserted into the seats and secured with screws. There is no need to leave long ends, as they may touch and a short circuit will occur. However, very short ends are also a problem: If the cable burns out over time, it needs to be cleaned and its length may not be enough. These nuances should be taken into account when carrying out work.
   • Exposed cables should not be left inside the housing. We isolate them and separate them in different directions.
   • We connect the cable to the consumer.
   • We connect the cable to an energy source that must be de-energized.
   • We isolate all connections that exist.
   • We install the key in place.
   • Turn on the power source. If there is a machine gun, it will be knocked out if a mistake is made. When you turn it on for the first time, you should be near the machine for some time in order to be ready to quickly de-energize the circuit. A simple circuit with a mechanical breaker is organized in a similar way.

Safety precautions

When working with electricity, special attention should be paid to safety precautions.

When considering it, the following nuances can be noted:

1. All works are performed only with the circuit de-energized. You should not rely on your accuracy and attentiveness.
2. After de-energizing the circuit you need to make sure that no one turns it on accidentally. To do this, you can close the flap with a key and place a person who will stand near it.
3. Despite If the machine was turned off, it is worth checking that there is no current in the circuit. It may be due to the fact that the machine is faulty, or that when creating the circuit there were branches that did not go through the machine. This is common in older homes.
4. Despite the circuit being de-energized, contact with the connected conductor to the power circuit can only be made with a screwdriver.
5. Job can only be performed under conditions of normal humidity in the room.
6. Cable cannot be laid in damp walls.

You can complete the above work yourself within one or several hours. When doing work, do not rush, as you may make mistakes. Particular attention should be paid to cable connections and strive to make them as small as possible. This is due to the fact that it is the connection points that are considered the main vulnerability of the chain.

Everyone has more than four switches in their home. They work properly, but often break down at the most inopportune moment, or you simply decide to renovate your home and replace them with new models, and then you have to replace them. If you decide to do everything yourself, then in this article you will find detailed wiring diagrams for single-key and two-key switches, various recommendations and tips on this issue.

Single-key switch connection diagram

First, let's look at the wiring diagram for a single-key switch, since it is simpler and more common. Remember that to assemble the lamp connection diagram, in addition to the switch and wires, we also need a junction box in which the wires will be connected. You can connect them different ways, but here we will look at simple twists. The photo below shows all the necessary elements: junction box, lamp socket and switch (already disassembled)...

Now we lay all the necessary wires:

1. Wire from the panel to the junction box.
2. Wire from the junction box to the switch.
3. Wire from the junction box to the lamp socket.

Next, we cut all the ends of the wires and strip the wires. In the junction box it is necessary to strip the conductors by 3-4 cm to create a reliable twist, and in the socket and switch they need to be stripped by 5-8 mm to connect to the contacts.

We connect the wires to the switch and the socket (terminal block) of the lamp. In a switch, polarity does not play a special role. In the socket, the phase conductor must be connected to central contact, and the neutral conductor is on the side. If the terminal block in the lamp is removed from the socket, then it already indicates where to connect the phase, neutral and ground. Observe these values.

We assemble the switch and put the lamp in place...

Now you need to twist the wires in the junction box and not mix anything up. Here you should have three twists:

1. We twist the neutral conductor coming from the shield with the neutral conductor going to the lamp.
2. We twist the phase conductor coming from the panel with the phase conductor going to the switch.
3. We twist the other conductor coming from the switch (it will be phase when you press the switch button) with the phase conductor going to the lamp.

Now for better contact and long service life of the connection, it is necessary to solder all the twists. Then we insulate them with electrical tape or PVC pipes and carefully place them in a distribution box, preferably so that they do not come into contact with each other.

In the photo I did not solder or insulate the twists. Excuse me.

Close the box and turn on the light!

That's not all...

In most cases, it happens that from this junction box it is necessary to connect the next box, and from this one you need to organize light in another room. Below I will show you in detail how this can be done.

It is necessary to insert a wire into the existing junction box and lay it to the next box.

To connect the next junction box (with a loop), it is necessary to twist the phase conductor going to it with the phase conductor coming from the panel, and the neutral conductor of the outgoing wire must be twisted with the neutral conductor coming from the panel. In the photo below you can clearly see this. Wire #1 is the incoming wire from the panel, and wire #2 is the outgoing wire to the next junction box.

Connection diagram for two-button switch

Below I propose to analyze the connection diagram for a two-key switch. There is nothing complicated here and you can figure it out, the main thing is not to mix up the wires. Here it is already necessary to run 3-core wires to the switch and to the chandelier.

Before connecting wires to a 2-key switch, be sure to look at the contact markings. The designation "L" means that on this contact it is necessary to connect the phase conductor coming from the distribution box. The designations “1” and “2” mean that it is necessary to connect phase conductors to them that go to different groups of lamps in the chandelier or to different lamps No. 1 and No. 2.

On my switch, which is shown in the photo, all three contacts are on the top. Things may be different for you. This depends on the manufacturer and model of the switch. They are different, but the designations on them are usually the same.

Now we twist the wire. The main thing here is not to confuse anything. In the photo below I signed everything in detail and everything is clearly visible there. Read more carefully and connect your wires the same way. You should have four twists. I showed schematically how to connect the wire to a chandelier or to different lamps. If something is not clear, write in the comments, we will figure it out together. Also keep in mind that a phase will flow through the wire from the switch to the box through all the wires and therefore it will not be possible to observe the color marking here.

We solder all the twists, insulate them and carefully place them in the junction box.

We assemble the switch and try to turn on the light, thereby checking the correctness of the assembled switch connection diagram.

Let's smile:

A drunk electrician buried his forehead in a pole.
A bare wire dangles nearby.
Electrician: - Nope...
He grabs the wire with his hand and jerks from the electric shock:
- All! Understood! Understood!

Switches appeared at the same moment when man came up with the idea of ​​lighting the rooms in which he was located. Despite the huge variety of their types, designs, sizes and bells and whistles, they perform two main tasks - turn the light on and off. This work is based on a simple principle, which will be discussed in this article.

The instructions for installing lighting yourself - from the switch to the light bulb - are based on it. The switch can control any type of lighting and any amount of it, the main thing is to understand the principle of its operation and take into account all the technical nuances in order to correctly install the lighting in the apartment and connect everything together without the help of an electrician.

What are they?

• The classic and most common option is a regular single-key light switch. It is designed to control one group of lighting elements - a chandelier, lamp or night light. It is installed where such control is relevant. Pros - easy installation single-key switch, low price. Disadvantages - the inability to connect several independent groups of lighting fixtures to a light switch with one key. The diagram of a single-key switch will be presented below.

• A more advanced option is two buttons. It gives relatively greater freedom in organizing and planning the lighting system of premises. You can already connect two groups of light bulbs here. Typically, this scheme is used to distinguish between main and additional lighting in living rooms and kitchens. One button turns on the main light, and the second turns on additional lighting above the work areas. This option is much more economical and neater than placing two one-button options side by side.

• A very rare, but still used in everyday life, version of a light bulb switch is with three buttons. It is again used to distinguish between different lighting fixtures along the wires. Found application in bedrooms and living rooms, where huge chandeliers with several levels of light bulbs are usually installed. Sometimes it is used to organize street lighting - by stretching the wires, you can turn on the lights in different places from one switch. It looks very compact and neat, it has only two drawbacks: it is more expensive than its previous analogues, and the keys on it are relatively thin - you can miss it by turning on the wrong light. The lamp connection diagram is very simple, even for him.

• In addition to turning the lights on and off, they can also adjust the brightness of the lights. The design of such a mechanism is more complex, and this possibility is relevant only for LEDs, where the brightness of the crystals depends on the strength of the current passing through them. Such models are called “dimmers”, they are made in the form of regulators various types. When switched off, no current passes through them, and the lights do not shine. As the knob is gradually turned, the dimmer begins to pass more current up to the maximum. This will only work with LEDs (not even all light bulbs, usually this trick is suitable for LED strips). Try not to power incandescent and fluorescent lamps through the dimmer - this can lead to their damage and burning.

• One way to make this work is to add a small lighting element to the button. It lights up in the off position, telling a person in the dark where the light switch is. Very useful thing in large or, conversely, cramped spaces. However, this type of switch is associated with a very popular problem that owners of fluorescent and LED light bulbs– blinking when switched off. This problem can be solved so simply that there is absolutely no reason to refuse such a convenient thing. Moreover, small light bulbs are installed on absolutely all the types described above, there are no restrictions.

• Let’s complete the classification by mentioning that the designs of models on the modern market are so diverse that they can be chosen to literally suit any design, color and purpose. Despite the fact that they will seem completely different, their operating principle is the same - we will talk about it later.

Principle of operation

Why is the light shining? Because electricity is supplied to it. It doesn't shine because there is no electricity. This is exactly what the switch does - it mechanically breaks the circuit with the light bulb through which current flows to it from shared network. To understand how he does this, you need to look inside.

We see that the white buttons that we press in everyday use are only decorative elements. They are attached to the housing with special clips and set in motion ceramic walkers, which control the electrical circuit. The operation of such a mechanism and how to connect a single-key switch will be clearly shown later in the article.

When turned off, it breaks the phase, and as a result, the light bulbs do not light. The ground and zero of the lamps, roughly speaking, are common; they go bypassing the switch. The phase will have to be powered separately to each button to separate the circuits.

How to connect yourself?

All types are connected in exactly the same way, differing only in the number of wires, which directly depends on the keys in the switch.

How to properly connect a light switch? Simple instructions will be presented with the assumption that a power cable has already been laid under the switch, and it sticks out of the wall in the place where we will install it. Be sure to follow safety precautions when working with electricity - de-energize the entire system using a general switch, carefully insulate all connections, and tighten the contacts securely. Let's start with how to connect a single-key switch.

• How to connect a light switch? It's the easiest to connect. To do this, you need only three wires - ground, neutral, phase. The connection of the lamp will be done through a distribution box, through which the ground and working zero are directly passed through, connecting to the light bulbs. The operating phase is the wire that provides the electrical load, which is first inserted into the distribution box and then connected to the switch. From there, the wire returns to the box and is directly connected to the light bulb. Thus, in the off state, only zero and ground will be connected to the lamp, and the phase on the light bulb will be broken at the switch contacts. The contact is connected when turned on, the load is supplied in phase, the light bulb lights up. Below is a wiring diagram for a single-key switch.

• There are some differences in wiring a two-button switch. How to connect a light bulb through a switch in this case? Here the ground and phase wires are inserted into the box, each of them is divided in two for connection to the lamps. The operating phase wire is also inserted into the switch through the box, where it is connected to each circuit breaking mechanism separately. From them two wires are led to a box from which they are connected to the light bulbs. The light switch connection diagram is similar, only there are two buttons.

Here you should pay attention to the switch itself. On the reverse side it will have three contacts. Where there is only one, the phase is connected from the network. Where there are two of them, two phases are output to the lamps. If you follow this little tip, the electrical wiring will be installed correctly, you will never mix up the connection and connection sides.

• For a three-key switch the story is the same. From the box, ground and zero are tripled for each group of light bulbs, and three phases come out of the switch, which are connected accordingly.

Here is a diagram for connecting a light bulb without grounding. Some networks are not provided for connecting the ground, so you can completely do without it, simply by not running it in parallel with zero.

Installation of the structure

We already said a little higher that special holes should be drilled in the wall - socket boxes, where a metal frame with an already powered network will be installed on special clamps.

On the sides of this frame there will be rectangular teeth that will hold it in the wall. The fastening must be strong, not loose in the socket and not fall out.

After installing the frame, a decorative surface is placed on top of it, with which we come into contact every day after connecting the light switch with one key.

Conclusion

A switch is an indispensable element of any lighting scheme; without it, it simply will not function. The modern variety of mechanisms allows you to connect lamps to it in a huge number of variations, and Beautiful design will make the switch as inconspicuous as possible and fit harmoniously into the overall interior of the room.

You can connect the light bulb to the switch yourself. Be sure to use safe way work with electricity, check the serviceability of the wires and the quality of the contact connections before connecting to the network.