Lighting is the most important component of the interior. The coziness and level of comfort of our home depends on lighting. The play of light and shadow allows you to play up the winning moments of the interior and divert attention from the unsuccessful moments. And also - lamps, floor lamps, chandeliers and lamps create the atmosphere that we call “home”. Unique lamps and The best way- make a lampshade with your own hands. Homemade lampshades and lampshades are the thing that will make your home stand out from others.
A few words about security
When manufacturing lamps, floor lamps and chandeliers in industrial conditions, the minimum distance from the “body” of the lamp to the materials is first calculated. This distance depends on the power and thermal radiation of the lamp and on the type (flammability) of the material from which the lampshade/shade is made. At home, it is unlikely that anyone will bother with such calculations. And in order not to create a dangerous situation, you should adhere to certain rules.
In general, after making a lampshade and installing it, in the first few days pay attention to whether the lampshade is heating up. Heating is any increase in temperature above environment. If the lampshade feels “warm”, change the bulb to a less powerful one. Check again. Do this until the homemade lampshade gets warm.
Where to get the frame
If you want to remake an old lamp, floor lamp, sconce whose old lampshade has become unusable, you can simply use the existing base, stripping off the old material. Before starting work, take a good look at the frame; if there is rust or damaged coating somewhere, maybe it’s worth stripping everything off and painting it again? At the same time, the color can be changed. If there are no old frames, you can buy an inexpensive lamp (in a store or at a flea market) and do the same operations with it. By the way, good lampshades can be made from waste baskets. There are wire ones and there are plastic ones. The main thing is to find the right shape and size. Then make a hole in the bottom for the cartridge. Then it’s a matter of decoration/plating, but here there are a lot of options.
If this method is not available, you can make a lampshade without a frame (there are some) or make a frame yourself. The material for making a frame for a lampshade with your own hands is: wire, wood (wooden or bamboo sticks, specially cut elements), plastic bottles.
How to make a frame for a homemade lampshade from wire
The wire for the lamp frame needs aluminum or steel. Aluminum is easy to work with, but it wrinkles easily. This is not very important when the lampshade is already in use, but this fact must be taken into account during work: the shape can be ruined. On the other hand, such plasticity allows you to easily and simply make changes to the shape during work. So it's a good option. Aluminum wire can be “mined” from electrical cables. You will have to remove the protective shell and you can use it.
Steel wire is more elastic, so it retains its shape well. You can look for it on the construction market. It's more difficult to work with. It is advisable to have strong male hands nearby.
In addition to the wire, you will need powerful wire cutters and pliers for the job. The lampshade frame usually consists of two rings and posts connecting them. The shape of the future lampshade depends on the size of the rings and the shape of the stands. Questions may arise regarding the number of racks and methods of their fastening. The number of posts depends on the size of the rings and how “round” you want the lampshade to be. The more stands, the smoother the fabric will lie. So it’s up to you to choose, but the optimal distance between the posts in the bottom circle is about 5-6 cm.
Techniques for creating a wire lampshade frame
How you attach the stack to the lampshade rings depends on the thickness and type of wire, as well as the tools you have. The simplest one is to make a small hook at the end, then clamp it tightly. To prevent the ring from sliding left and right, first sand the wire at the attachment point with coarse sandpaper. This is an option for thick aluminum wire. If the wire is steel, with a diameter of 1.2-2 mm or more, the best way is. Thinner wire can be bent and wrapped around a ring or also made into a hook.
If you make hooks, wrap wire, appearance It turns out far from being as perfect as factory frames. But this imperfection will be covered by the lampshade itself. If you still care about it, find a ribbon of a suitable color (usually matched to the color of the lampshade) and carefully wrap the resulting frame. It will get much better. The tape can be coated with PVA glue and, wet, tightly, turn by turn, wrapped around the frame.
Wire mesh
If you can find a mesh of thin wire, you can quickly make an almost perfect cylindrical lampshade for a floor lamp, table lamp, night light, lampshade for placing a candle, etc. All you need to do is cut a piece of mesh of the required length and width, roll it into a ring and secure the wires by wrapping them around the posts.
To prevent the mesh from straightening out, when cutting a piece, cut so that there are long free ends on both sides. We will use them to fasten the cylindrical lampshade. And the imperfection of the upper and lower rings can be masked with a ribbon of the desired color.
From a five liter plastic bottle
An interesting shaped lampshade can be made from a large plastic bottle. There are bottles for 5-6 liters and even 10. These are what you can use. Cut off the top or bottom of the container, depending on what you like best. In the cut off part we make a ring for the cartridge. If cut off top part, for some cartridges you can use a neck. For those with a larger diameter, it will have to be cut off.
Then we cut out the excess plastic and form the rims and pillars of the lampshade. To avoid mistakes, you can first draw all the lines with a marker. It will be easier to cut. Everything is elementary. Then we just decorate. And yes, it is necessary to cut out the plastic, otherwise the warm air will have nowhere to go.
Making lampshades on a frame
There are enough options for how to make a lampshade cover:
From tapes
The simplest and quick way transform an old lampshade for a floor lamp or table lamp - use ribbons. You need a frame or lampshade in the form of a cylinder. It can be “naked” or covered with fabric. If you use a bare frame, light will shine through the cracks, creating interesting lighting effects, but the lighting will be uneven. It is uncomfortable to read in such light - this is an interior solution. If you need even lighting, first cover the frame with fabric. It can be the same color as the ribbons, a couple of shades darker or lighter, or it can be contrasting. It all depends on your desire. And remember that the darker the fabric, the less light the lampshade transmits.
We take a ribbon 1-2.5 cm wide. We fix it on the wrong side of the lampshade using PVA glue, additionally securing it with a pin. If you took a wire frame without fabric, attach it to the upper or lower rim (you can sew it on by hand, you can use glue). Then we begin to wrap the entire frame, from top to bottom, placing the turns of tape close to each other, but without overlapping.
Having completed the circle, turn the tape 90°. We fix it in this position (with a needle and thread or PVA glue, glue from a gun, temporarily fixing it with a pin, pressing it with a clothespin). Then we pass the tape under the first tape, pull it out, lay it on top of the second, then pull it down again, pull it up through one tape. So, gradually, we create an interlacing, filling the entire lampshade.
Alternatively, you can pass two vertical ribbons at a time. But then you need to make sure that each next row moves one crossbar. Then you get a different type of weave. This type of lampshade is ideal for floor lamps, since the light will be directed downwards and the dispersion through the walls will be small.
IN this option the ribbons may be the same, they may be the same color, but different textures, may differ by a couple of tones or be contrasting. The tapes can be passed in a circle in a continuous stream, or at some distance. If you find a wide tape and apply it with an overlap, then you won’t need horizontal ones at all. And if you use a braided or twisted cord (in the lower photo on the right), we will get a completely different-looking lampshade. So this lampshade finishing technique alone gives you a lot of options.
Let's briefly present the ideas. There are many options for how you can design standard frames for lampshades in a non-standard way. The first method has already been announced: you can knit or crochet a cover for a lampshade. Several options in the photo.
Not everyone knows how to knit. It is easier to work with beads, especially if you glue them. You can decorate old fabric using beads, sequins, beads different shapes and sizes. You can make this “new-old” lampshade with your own hands in a couple of hours. Select decorations that match the color, coat the fabric with PVA glue, and stick on the decorations. To complete the look, you can assemble pendants from beads and beads that are attached to the lower rim, but this is already painstaking work. The effect is interesting though.
You can sew a new lampshade from fabric. But it doesn’t have to be an updated copy of the old one. You should use your imagination! If a lamp or floor lamp is in the girls' room, a new cover for the lampshade can be made in the form of a skirt. You choose the style of the skirt yourself. They look interesting when folded. With and without ruffles.
In a boy's room you can use an old one geographical map. They are on thick paper. If the paper is not thick enough, you first need to glue the card onto the cardboard, and then glue the lampshade from such a blank.
Original lampshades are obtained if the finished frame is woven with threads or ropes. Ropes can be natural. In this case they are gray, brown and beige. You can find thin synthetic colored cords. They will make products that are more “cheerful” in color. The situation is even simpler with knitting threads. They are thin, thick, textured, with smoothly changing colors. In general, there are a lot of options.
We take the frame and braid it according to a certain pattern. You can start with the racks. Braid each stand with a braid (the length of the threads should be 3 times the height of the stand). When this work is completed, we begin to stretch the threads/ropes between the posts. They will need to be passed through the braids, so with threads it is more convenient to do this with a needle, but ropes can be inserted this way.
The second option is to first entangle the entire frame horizontally, and then braid the racks. The braid won't work here, you just need to secure the turns to the stand using inclined stitches with a certain slope. This option is somewhat simpler in execution, but the “braids” look more decorative.
Homemade lampshades without frame
Many materials are rigid enough to hold their shape on their own, but at the same time they are flexible enough to make something interesting out of them. There are a lot of such homemade lampshades. And almost all of them are worth your attention. We will present here only part, the other part will go in the section with photos (see below).
From knitted lace doilies
Many people have crocheted napkins and they lie in “stashes”, because it’s a pity to throw them away and they don’t know how to use them. There is a very interesting idea - to make a lampshade out of them for a hanging chandelier. In addition to napkins, you will need a large balloon or inflatable ball, glue for heavy wallpaper (vinyl, silk-screen printing, etc.), and a brush.
Soak the glue according to the instructions and wait until it swells. We inflate a balloon or take a ball and hang it up. When the glue is ready, lay out a napkin on some clean surface, coat it with glue, and place it on the ball.
It must be laid out in such a way that there will be a hole in the center for the cartridge. We glue the napkins one by one. They need to be laid out so that the edges overlap slightly. When all the napkins are laid out, coat them with glue again and leave until dry. When the glue has dried, deflate the ball or ball (the ball can be pierced, if you don’t mind) and take it out through the hole. That's all, the lace lampshade is ready.
In some cases, problems arise with how to hang the finished lampshade on the socket. The problem can be solved simply - take a transparent plastic bottle, cut off its neck, and, if necessary, expand the hole to required sizes(so that it fits tightly onto the socket), then cut the plastic so that you get a ring 5-7 cm wide. Coat this ring with PVA glue, and glue it to the lampshade from the inside of the ball.
Round lampshades made of threads
Almost the same technology can be used to produce round and semicircular stylish lampshades. Choose threads of a suitable color. Their composition is absolutely unimportant - what matters is color, thickness and texture. They can be shaggy, smooth, twisted, thinner and thicker. The appearance depends on this. It is most convenient to work with cotton threads of medium thickness. They absorb glue well and then, after drying, keep their shape perfectly.
You will also need a ball or ball. This will be the base of the lampshade, which gives the shape. You can choose the dimensions of the base as desired. The threads will need to be glued together; for this you will need PVA glue. It is poured into a container and diluted with water in a 1:1 ratio.
You can use other glue. It is important that it becomes transparent after drying. This is WB-29 from TYTAN Professional and D2 glue for carpentry. If you use any of these types of glue, read the instructions.
On the ball or sphere we will draw a circle, which will be slightly smaller in size than the lamp socket. On the opposite side, draw a larger circle - this will be the lower edge of the lampshade. Now everything is ready, we can start.
We coat the threads with glue and wind them around the ball in a chaotic manner. It’s more convenient to do this if the glue is poured into a container - you can put the whole skein in there and just pull the thread slowly. With glue in a tube, everything is not so comfortable: you have to coat sections up to a meter long, wrap it around, and coat it again. It takes much longer. This is if you do not use PVA. But the products turn out to be more rigid and do not sag or change shape over time, as can happen with PVA thread lampshades.
When winding threads around the ball, carefully go around the drawn circles. If you accidentally climbed into the “forbidden territory”, simply move the threads, forming a smooth (more or less smooth) edge. When the threads run out or you decide that the density is enough, the process can be stopped. We tuck the edge of the thread between the others. All. Next, coat the ball with wound threads again with glue (PVA can be poured over) and leave to dry (at least 2 days). To prevent the ball from rolling, we find a bowl or pan and use it as a stand.
The last stage is to deflate the ball or ball. If the ball has a nipple, press it with a thin wire, releasing the air. We take out the deflated ball. That's all, you can thread the lamp inside and test the lampshade.
The technology is the same, but the appearance is very different...
Using the technology described above, you can make not only round lampshades. Rectangular, triangular, trapezoidal. Choose a base that is easy to remove, wind threads soaked in glue, braid, even sticks, newspaper tubes, etc. After drying, remove the base and voila, you have made a lampshade with your own hands. A couple of examples in the photo below.
You can also use chopsticks... Just wrap the ball with cling film and use transparent carpentry glue rather than PVA glue
This is a paste-like polymer clay in a tube, which was applied to a milk carton, then dried and the bag was removed...
Creative homemade shades for lamps, floor lamps and chandeliers
It’s simply amazing what people don’t make beautiful and unusual things out of. A lampshade made from a cup, a grater, a bottle, a beer or glass jar, metal parts and rings from beer cans... It seems that everything can be used...
Lampshade made from an old sieve... stylish
Candlesticks turn into lamps... without lampshades
You can't tell in real life, but these lampshades are made of hooks that open metal cans for drinks and canned food... if you paint them, it will be even more interesting
Don't know what to do with grandma's crystal? Make lampshades out of it...
I bought 10 W 900 lm warm LEDs for testing white light on AliExpress. The price in November 2015 was 23 rubles per piece. The order arrived in a standard bag, I checked everything was in good condition. 
To power LEDs in lighting devices, special units are used - electronic drivers, which are converters that stabilize the current rather than the voltage at their output. But since the drivers for them (I also ordered from AliExpreess) were still on the way, I decided to power them from the ballast from energy saving lamps. I've had several of these faulty lamps. whose filament in the bulb burned out. As a rule, the voltage converter for such lamps is working properly, and it can be used as pulse block power supply or LED driver.
We disassemble the fluorescent lamp. 
For the conversion, I took a 20 W lamp, the choke of which can easily deliver 20 W to the load. For a 10W LED, no further modifications are required. If you plan to supply more powerful LED, you need to take a converter from a more powerful lamp, or install a choke with a larger core.
Installed jumpers in the lamp ignition circuit. 
I wound 18 turns of enamel wire around the inductor, solder the terminals of the wound winding to the diode bridge, apply mains voltage to the lamp and measure the output voltage. In my case, the unit produced 9.7V. I connected the LED through an ammeter, which showed a current passing through the LED of 0.83A. My LED has an operating current of 900mA, but I reduced the current to increase the resource. Collected diode bridge on the board using a hinged method.
Remodeling scheme. 
I installed the LED using thermal paste on a metal lampshade of an old table lamp. 
I installed the power board and diode bridge into the body of a table lamp. 
When working for about an hour, the LED temperature is 40 degrees. 
To the eye, the illumination is like that of a 100-watt incandescent lamp. 
At home, I had long ago equipped all the lighting fixtures with homemade LEDs, and only in the office there was a single lamp with a compact fluorescent lamp on the desktop.
Since the lamp was used quite intensively, the lamps for it with a G23 socket with a power of 11 W had to be changed every year or a year and a half, despite the respected manufacturer Osram.
In addition, six months before the lamp burned out, the lamp began to wink at the mains frequency, which was terribly tiring. The lamp did not turn on immediately, but with a delay required to warm up the starter (like a regular fluorescent tube), which is located in the lamp base.
Another drawback of my lamp is the overly heavy plug-throttle, which constantly fell out of the European socket and, moreover, was itself a consumer of electricity. In general, when the time came to change the lamp once again, I thought about converting the lamp to LED.
It was very easy to disassemble the device: I only had to unscrew three screws. There was enough space in the lampshade to accommodate the driver and radiator with LEDs. Having considered that the power of a 6 W LED lamp is enough to illuminate the workplace, I began to select components.
I did not find a driver for 6 one-watt LEDs, so I had to use a driver for two-watt LEDs and, accordingly, three three-watt LEDs (two-watt LEDs do not exist). They will work in a lightweight mode - two and attaching the radiator to the body of the lamp reflector, after which I used a drilling machine at these points to drill two holes 0 2.5 mm and six 0 2 mm, and then thread M3 and M into them 2.5 respectively.
To accommodate the driver, a “native” G23 socket was used, from which one of the sockets intended for connecting a lamp was milled out with a burr machine. As a result, there was no need to worry about isolating the driver from the radiator and reflector.
The radiator was installed in the lampshade and secured with two M3 screws through holes drilled in the reflector.
Unfortunately, I ran out of hot glue. Therefore, I soldered the LEDs onto Star boards using KPT-8 thermal paste (but I didn’t have to wait for the hot-melt glue to dry). I secured the boards with LEDs to the radiator with M2.5 screws, also using thermal paste.
Next, I soldered the LEDs in series with MGTF wire with a cross-section of 0.12 mm2 and soldered the output wires of the driver to the light-emitting module, observing the polarity. I put the cartridge with the driver in place and soldered the input wires to the “original” switch. All connections were insulated with heat shrink tubing. Then he closed the lamp cover and, sighing with relief, cut off the annoying throttle plug. Instead I installed an ordinary two-pole plug.
A test turn on of the lamp showed that I was in vain afraid of the LED-board transition, where thermal paste was used instead of hot-melt adhesive: the temperature after an hour of operation was normal. Measurements were taken at the negative terminal of the LED (the point most susceptible to heating) and at the point of contact of the radiator with the board. The lamp conversion is complete.
I would like to note that in the work, the “original” parts of the lamp were used to the maximum, but they were bought for a penny! And the rework took several hours at most. And this lamp will also serve my grandchildren.
The economic effect of replacing light bulbs with LEDs
As a result of the modification, the power of the lamp decreased from 11 to 6 W, that is, now the lamp consumes almost half as much electricity. And if we take into account the reactive component of electricity consumption by the inductor of the old lamp, the economic effect will be much more significant. At the same time, the luminous flux has even increased slightly and amounts to 600-660 lm, which is quite enough to illuminate the workplace.
Accessories
- Driver HG-2234 with characteristics: U input = 90-240 VAC; U out = 6-12 VDC; I out = 460-500 mA; dimensions - 25 x 17 x 17 mm.
- Three 3HPD-3 LEDs (I pr. = 700/1,000 mA; U = 2.9-3.6 V; Fv = “250 - 270 lm at rated current; 281/2 = 120 degrees; T = 3,060 K ; chip 45 x 45 mil).
- Three radiator plates Star 0 20 mm and 1.6 mm thick.
- Radiator HS 172-30 dimensions 150 x 30 x 13 mm.
DIY LED in a table lamp - photo
- An 11 W lamp from Osram, which had to be replaced with LEDs.
- Disassembling the lamp turned out to be quite easy.
- Accessories for LED module.
- The HS 172-30 radiator is quite suitable for cooling three LEDs.
- Proper radiator layout.
- M2.5 holes - for mounting the Star board, M3 hole - for mounting the radiator
- Part of the cartridge is milled by a drill...
- ...to install the driver here.
- The radiator fit freely on the lampshade reflector.
- The boards are installed.
- All elements of the light-emitting module were wired using MGTF wire.
- The only thing left to do is put the lid back in place and change the plug.
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If an old Soviet lamp with fluorescent fluorescent lamps such as LB-40, LB-80 is out of order, or you are tired of changing the starter in it, recycling the lamps themselves (and you can’t just throw them in the trash for a long time), then you can easily convert to LED.
The most important thing is that fluorescent and LED lamps have the same bases - G13. Unlike other types of pin contacts, no modifications to the housing are required. 
- G- means pins are used as contacts
- 13 is the distance in millimeters between these pins
Benefits of remodeling
In this case you will receive:
- greater illumination
- lower losses (almost half of the useful energy in fluorescent lamps can be lost in the choke)
- absence of vibration and unpleasant rattling sound from the ballast throttle
True, more modern models already use electronic ballast. They have increased efficiency (90% or more), noise has disappeared, but energy consumption and luminous flux have remained at the same level. 
For example, new models of such LPO and LVO are often used for Armstrong ceilings. Here is a rough comparison of their effectiveness: 
Another advantage of LEDs is that there are models designed for supply voltages from 85V to 265V. For fluorescent you need 220V or close to it. 
For such LEDs, even if your network voltage is low or too high, they will start and shine without any complaints.
Luminaires with electromagnetic ballasts
What should you pay attention to when converting simple fluorescent lamps to LED lamps? First of all, its design. 
If you have a simple old Soviet-style lamp with starters and an ordinary (not electronic ballast) choke, then in fact there is no need to modernize anything. 
Just pull out the starter, pick up the overall size new LED lamp, insert it into the housing and enjoy brighter and more economical lighting.
If the starter is not removed from the circuit, then when replacing the LB lamp with an LED one, a short circuit can be created.
It is not necessary to dismantle the throttle. For an LED, the current consumption will be in the range of 0.12A-0.16A, and for a ballast, the operating current in such old lamps is 0.37A-0.43A, depending on the power. In fact, it will act as an ordinary jumper. 
After all the rework, you still have the same lamp. There is no need to change the fixture on the ceiling, and you no longer have to dispose of burnt lamps and look for special containers for them. 
Such lamps do not require separate drivers and power supplies, since they are already built-in inside the housing. 
The main thing is to remember the main feature - for LEDs, two pin contacts on the base are rigidly connected to each other.
And with fluorescent they are connected by a filament. When it gets hot, mercury vapor ignites. 
In models with electronic ballasts, a filament is not used and the gap between the contacts is pierced by a high voltage pulse.
The most common sizes of such tubes are:
- 300mm (used in table lamps)
- 900mm and 1200mm
The longer they are, the brighter the glow. 
Conversion of a lamp with electronic ballast
If you have a more modern model, without a starter, with an electronic ballast throttle (electronic ballast), then you will have to tinker a little with changing the circuit. 
What is inside the lamp before alteration:
- throttle
- wires
- contact blocks-cartridges on the sides of the case
The throttle is what will need to be thrown out first. Without it, the entire structure will significantly lose weight. Unscrew the mounting screws or drill out the rivets, depending on the fastener.
Then disconnect the power wires. To do this, you may need a screwdriver with a narrow blade. 
You can use these wirings and just eat them with pliers.
The connection diagram for the two lamps is different; with the LED lamp everything is much simpler: 
The main task that needs to be solved is to supply 220V to different ends of the lamp. That is, the phase is on one terminal (for example, the right one), and the zero is on the other (left). 
It was said earlier that an LED lamp has both pin contacts inside the base, connected to each other by a jumper. Therefore, here it is impossible, as in a fluorescent one, to supply 220V between them.
To verify this, use a multimeter. Set it to resistance measurement mode, and touch the two terminals with the measuring probes and take measurements. 
The display should display the same values as when the probes are connected to each other, i.e. zero or close to it (taking into account the resistance of the probes themselves).
A fluorescent lamp, between two terminals on each side, has a resistance filament, which, after applying a voltage of 220V through it, heats up and “starts” the lamp. 
- without dismantling cartridges
- with dismantling and installing jumpers through their contacts
Without dismantling
The easiest way is without dismantling, but you will have to buy a couple of Wago clamps.
In general, bite out all the wires suitable for the cartridge at a distance of 10-15mm or more. Next, insert them into the same Vago clamp. 
Do the same with the other side of the lamp. If the wago terminal block does not have enough contacts, you will have to use 2 pieces. 
After this, all that remains is to feed a phase into the clamp on one side and zero on the other.
No Vago, just twist the wires under the PPE cap. With this method, you do not need to deal with the existing circuit, jumpers, get into the cartridge contacts, etc.
With dismantling the cartridges and installing jumpers
The other method is more scrupulous, but does not require any extra costs.
Remove the side covers from the lamp. This must be done carefully, because... In modern products, the latches are made of brittle and breakable plastic. 
After which, you can dismantle the contact cartridges. Inside them there are two contacts that are isolated from each other.
Such cartridges can be of several varieties: 
All of them are equally suitable for lamps with G13 socket. There may be springs inside them. 
First of all, they are needed not for better contact, but to ensure that the lamp does not fall out of it. Plus, due to the springs, there is some compensation for the length. Since it is not always possible to produce identical lamps with millimeter accuracy.
Each cartridge has two power cables. Most often, they are attached by snapping into special contacts without screws. 
You turn them clockwise and counterclockwise, and with some force, pull one of them out. 
As mentioned above, the contacts inside the connector are isolated from each other. And by dismantling one of the wiring, you actually leave only one contact socket. 
All current will now flow through the other contact. Of course, everything will work on one, but if you are making a lamp for yourself, it makes sense to improve the design a little by installing a jumper.
Thanks to it, you don’t have to make contact by turning the LED lamp from side to side. The double connector ensures a reliable connection. 
The jumper can be made from unnecessary wires power supplies for the lamp itself, which you will definitely have left over as a result of the rework.
Using a tester, you check that after installing the jumper, there is a circuit between the previously isolated connectors. Do the same with the second plug-in contact on the other side of the lamp.
The main thing is to make sure that the remaining power wire is no longer phase, but zero. You bite off the rest.
Fluorescent lamps with two, four or more lamps
If you have a two-lamp lamp, it is best to supply voltage to each connector with separate conductors. 
When installing a simple jumper between two or more cartridges, the design will have a significant drawback.
The second lamp will light only if the first one is installed in its place. Remove it, and the other one will go out immediately. 
The supply conductors should converge on the terminal block, where you will have the following connected in turn: 
Hello, dear readers and admirers of the site Radio circuits! Today I want to tell you about a small redesign of my table lamp. Once upon a time, the fluorescent lamp I bought worked happily ever after, but its turn has come and will go to another world. The lamp began to turn on poorly and began to flicker barely noticeably, which was very annoying. The flicker was most noticeable in lateral (peripheral) vision.
And then I got a piece of LED strip on an aluminum base for free. When trying it on, it turned out that the length fits like a native one. It was decided to carry out modernization.
I removed all the resistors from the strip and soldered additional LEDs instead to improve the light output of the lamp. I cut the strip itself into three parts and connected them in series using the same LEDs. Next, I fixed it all on the radiator, for which I used a piece of aluminum furniture rail (from sliding compartment doors), using thermal paste and superglue. The radiator itself was secured in the case with hot-melt adhesive.
Power supply circuit for LED
All that remains is to make the driver. Without hesitation, I decided to take a power supply unit (PSU) from an ordinary energy-saving device, of which I had accumulated a decent bunch. Some modifications need to be made to the power supply so that LEDs can be connected to it. A lot has been written about this on the Internet, so I won’t go into too much detail and will only give the diagrams that came up first on Google. It is necessary to throw out the circuit circled by a dotted line and close the remaining terminals together.
Then everything is as usual: we wind an additional winding on the transformer, solder a diode bridge made of “fast” diodes and a capacitor there. The result is a very compact and fairly powerful power supply (about the same power as indicated on the lamp from which the power supply was removed) from practically nothing.
As a result, it was possible to revive the patient and make him shine with renewed vigor. The only discovered disadvantage of this modification is that due to the use of a new power supply unit, the mass of which is much less than the old inductor, the stability has not deteriorated much, with large bends of the lamp holder. But on the other hand, the lamp is now not afraid of falls, since now there is simply nothing there to break, and plus, it has become more environmentally friendly, since it does not contain a mercury-containing lamp.
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