There are two main ways to connect leads when installing electrical wiring: with distribution boxes and without. Last method appeared relatively recently. This option is resorted to mainly because the presence of distribution boxes spoils the appearance of the renovated premises. According to the PUE (Electrical Installation Rules), it is necessary to ensure free access to each box, and this does not suit everyone. Most try to hide them away from view under the finishing, while violating the main requirement of the PUE for this type of installation.
To provide access to the box, you have to tear off part of the wallpaper or plaster, which leads to additional repair costs. To get rid of this prospect, many resort to installation without junction boxes. In this case, the wiring is done in a common groove, floors or suspended ceiling. This method has both advantages and disadvantages.
Advantages
- Reduced labor costs
- Reduced installation costs
- Fewer contact connections and, as a result, the likelihood of emergency situations
- Simple connection diagram
- There is no need to destroy the finish during servicing
- Improves the appearance of the premises
Flaws
- Maintenance and repair by electricians who are not involved in installation become more difficult
- High wire consumption
Installation without junction boxes: general rules
Boilers, electric stoves, air conditioners and other household appliances with increased power consumption are powered separately from socket and lighting groups. In this case, it is desirable that each electrical appliance be powered by a separate cable through an automatic circuit breaker.
One outlet group can contain up to 8 outlets. The number of sockets and groups depends on the number of rooms and the power of consumers. This is done based on calculations and agreed with the customer before installation work begins.
The wire cross-section is selected based on the magnitude of the current loads. As a rule, copper wires with a cross-section of 2.5 mm² are chosen for socket groups, and 1.5 mm² for lighting.
The dependence of the cross-section of the copper wire on the current load is given in the table:
Connecting sockets
The sockets are connected using three wires: phase, neutral (zero) and ground. The connection of the phase and neutral conductors can be connected in two ways: with and without a line break. In the first case, the wire at the connection point is bent and disconnected. Both ends are stripped of insulation and made into one contact. In the second case, the wire is not disconnected; a loop is made, which is stripped of insulation and clamped with a screw. The advantage of this method is that when the contact in one socket loosens, it does not disappear in the others and they remain in in working condition. The grounding wire can only be connected without breaking the line.
The order of connecting sockets is as follows:
- One common cable of the group from the distribution panel is laid in a common groove (or in the floors).
- At branching points, the cable is lowered (or raised) directly into the first socket of the group.
- Each subsequent outlet of the group is powered from the previous one.
In this case, the power cable from the distribution panel is led directly into the switch box. The second wire in the diagram is the switching phase, connected to the lamp or hood. The neutral and ground wires are connected using flat terminals. The terminals are carefully placed in the box and the switch mechanism is installed.
Connecting a 2-gang switch
Unlike the previous diagram, the switch box has not 2, but 3 wires: one is the supply wire, the second is the switching phase for lighting, the third is for the fan (or the second lighting group). The connection of the neutral and ground wires is made in the same way as when connecting a single-key switch.
Conclusion
Installing wires without junction boxes has pros and cons, as well as supporters and opponents. The PUE rules allow this type of installation. There is nothing complicated about connecting sockets and switches in this way, and if they are of high quality, they will last a long time with any type of connection.
In this article we will talk to you about junction boxes, whether they are needed, whether they are so important in wiring and whether it is possible to do without them altogether. We use distribution boxes to provide connections and branches in the lines. But access to them must be ensured. What should we do if we don’t want to spoil the interior with the covers of junction boxes? There is always a way out of the situation. We will continue our topic about him.
First of all, let's remember from the previous article what they are and what function they perform in the installation of electrical wiring. Everything is very simple. In the distribution box we carry out cable switching. Most connections and branches are made in junction boxes, at least in 95% of cases this is done in them. Let's say there are several outlets in our room: for a TV, for a desktop and a household outlet for a vacuum cleaner. In order to distribute electrical wiring to these sockets located in different parts of the room, we need to make branches from the power cable coming from the switchboard. Coming from the switchboard, it can go into a TV socket, then into a desktop socket, and then from there into a household socket for a vacuum cleaner. You can do it in different ways. But in any case, we need to make a connection in order to supply power to each of the outlets.
What should we do in this case? First, let's figure out schematically how we can do all this. The most obvious and simple option is when we run our own cable in the distribution box for each outlet.
What is good about this method? We have one distribution box, we made all the connections in it, we need to make access to only one distribution box. But in this case the largest amount of cable will be needed.
You can do the following
In this case, if the sockets are spaced far enough from each other and we feel sorry for the cable, we make two distribution boxes. But access must already be provided to each of them. We now have two places with switching, and it is advisable to make them as small as possible.
Both of the above methods have the right to life and are practiced all the time for various reasons. Everyone justifies their work in their own way. If it is high quality, you can do it using any of the methods described above. 
The main thing is not to forget that according to the rules, any distribution box must be accessible at any time. It doesn’t matter whether it’s behind a closet or just in plain sight – there should always be access. What if you have 10 of them per room, and you have 5 rooms? Cute little circles all over the apartment. Of course, you can draw emoticons on them and enjoy life, but this is not the best possible solution. Especially on top of expensive and beautiful Venetian plaster, no matter how you style them, you can still see that someone hid something in the wall.
And we only touched on the socket groups, but we also have lighting, which also cannot be dealt with without switching. We need to connect the chandelier, and spots, and LED strip, all this from one place, with a few keys. And the lighting group rarely ends in one room, which means the power cable will move further, to the next room.
It turns out that even in lighting you can’t do without switching wires, and where to make them if not in a distribution box designed for this purpose.
In the socket group, we can do it simpler and run all our electrical wiring in a loop through all the sockets, but again, the standards will allow us to do this with some deviations. All connections must be made efficiently and in accordance with the requirements, and here we again come up against the junction box. Where else if not there we can correctly connect all this?
When doing projects for electrical installation in apartments, I try to build the electrical network in such a way that there is a minimum possible switching. The best option there was and remains one in which there are none at all, but it is rarely achievable in our time. A growing number of consumers are dictating their own rules. Even near a coffee table standing near the bed, many people want to see at least two sockets, and this is only on one side of the bed. I'm not even talking about computer tables and the kitchen work surface, where the number of sockets in one group often exceeds 8-10 pieces. In such conditions, it is almost impossible to do without desoldering. The best option would be when the cable came out of the panel and ended with a socket, but this can be done in most cases only in groups that power, for example, an air conditioner. Everything is simple here - the cable came out of the shield, came into the air conditioner terminal block and that’s it. There are no additional connections. Perfect, what can I say. But we will not lay our own cable from the shield to each socket. Then our shield will claim a serious role in the interior. But such consumers as underfloor heating, air conditioning, washing machine, oven, stove, boiler deserve an individual cable and a circuit breaker in the panel. But what to do with everything else? Let's figure it out. After all, we can’t do without switching.
So the sockets. We can send them out in a trail. What is this type of switching? Everything is very simple, the power cable goes into the first socket, disconnects in it, then into the next one, and so on until there are no more sockets in the group. It is worth noting, however, that the fewer of them in the group, the better. When designing an electrical network, these points must be taken into account and a middle ground must be found in the number of groups. With experience, this process is no longer difficult. So the train.
It seems that everything is simple, but at the same time there are subtleties and rules. Most sockets have two groups of contacts: phase input, phase output, N input, N output and PE input, PE output. It would seem that everything is simple and we can safely disconnect our sockets using the existing contacts. But! According to clause 1.7.144 of the electrical installation rules for PE (grounding conductor), we must make a separate branch. This means that we cannot simply stick a PE (ground conductor) into the input and output. The PE core must be unbroken throughout the entire length of our cable. If it is switched, it is either in a non-dismountable way, or in such a way that it can only be disassembled with a special tool. Why such precautions? PE is a protective conductor; it protects us from damage by dangerous voltage, which in the event of a malfunction may appear on the body of the device (socket, switchboard, etc.). Each PE conductor must and must be connected strictly individually. Each conductor has a separate bolt or clamp. If the PE conductor is not connected well, it may break and the whole meaning of this conductor will be lost. Devices connected after the broken PE conductor are no longer protected by the RCD and can hit you electric shock. That is why the connection of the PE conductor must be done most carefully.
In the vastness of our vast Internet, you can find a large number of disputes about how to make such connections. There are theorists, there are practitioners, there are those who are simply silent, silent because there is nothing to say or what is said can greatly demote them in rank... To be honest, many electricians turn a blind eye to such moments and carry out installation as necessary. But that's on their conscience.
What is the right thing to do? Before certain point I thought that if we connect high-quality electrical installation products, including sockets, then we can kind of use the terminal block of the sockets themselves and not bother with additional connections. Why did you think that? The terminal group is made at the factory, the manufacturer is well-known, the quality of the products is high, which means the socket itself is designed for this type of connection. But not every customer purchased sockets, the quality of which left no shadow of doubt. So I had to look various ways how to install with maximum quality. On the one hand, there are a lot of options, especially if you look at how your colleagues in the shop are perverted. They come up with everything they can to make PE inseparable, no matter how hard they try. As a result, the process becomes more like dancing with a tambourine rather than electrical installation. I looked at all this shamanism and thought that the best way It will be easy to adopt the proven method of wiring in junction boxes. Ultimately, one goal was pursued - to get rid of junction boxes. So we just move them to the socket boxes and voila. Customers are satisfied and your soul is at peace for quality electrical installations. IN Lately We almost never use distribution boxes in apartments.
What a connection method that smoothly transferred even to seemingly high-quality sockets. After all, it was possible to turn it off like that. But let everything be the same, equally reliable. Ultimately, the manufacturer is responsible for the product, and the electrician is responsible for the quality of the work performed. The areas of responsibility are divided and we go our own way.
So the sockets. We decided that we could turn them off directly in the socket boxes. And even in this we have options and a small flight of imagination, where would we be without it within the framework of the PUE. There are several options for such a connection. First, I’ll focus on the one I prefer to turn off myself.
We have three socket boxes. Let’s imagine that they are installed in the wall, we have our imagination, and it’s more convenient for me at the table to show you how it all happens. We prefer to lay the routes so that the incoming and outgoing power cables come into the middle socket box. This has been the case for a long time, and the assistants are too lazy to retrain, but it is very difficult to make a mistake in this option. So, the incoming and outgoing cables go into the middle socket box. At the time of laying, we leave a good margin, and during the disconnection process we cut off the excess and leave 10 - 12. This is usually enough for me for comfortable disconnection and laying them down afterwards is not a problem. We take the middle socket box with increased depth, because almost all walls in thickness allow it to be installed without problems. Someone will say that digging such depth into concrete is not sugar. I agree, but otherwise, in addition to the socket box, you will have to hammer concrete at a height under the junction box, so don’t whine, we’ll install a recessed one. We need it in order to connect 5 cables together: incoming power, outgoing power, right socket, left socket, middle socket. It sounds scary, but as always, only for the first time. Then it’s easier, just take it and do it.
We connect everything as expected. In distribution boxes for sockets, everything couldn’t be simpler - like your daughter’s toys, phase to phase, PE to PE, N to N. It looks like a fairly massive structure, but by making two or three of these socket boxes, you will learn how to carefully place everything at the bottom of the socket box without problems. We make all connections using GML sleeves. Depending on the number of cores that need to be connected, we select the size of the sleeves. We compress it with a hydraulic hand press. We wanted to buy a manual press from the same KVT, but we’re not looking for any good – the existing one presses simply wonderfully.
A small footnote. When using high-quality fittings (sockets), you don’t have to worry so much and don’t dilute the phase, N and PE, for each socket by crimping them with sleeves. It is quite enough to test and connect PE to each socket. We basically do it as shown in the photo. That’s how it happened, that’s how it grew together. Do it anyway, so why do it not well, but very well?
If there is a group of 4 sockets, then in the outer one, in one of the socket boxes, we repeat the procedure, that is, we press the one that came from the middle one, the one that goes into the fourth socket box and do not forget to add for the socket box in which we make the connection.
Heat shrinkage is everything. Those who are not too lazy can use duct tape. And as a result, we have a socket box in which the ends are completely soldered into three sockets. Everything fit perfectly on the bottom and there was space left as in a standard socket box. Next, we simply install the sockets.
My beloved Schneider was not in the warehouse and the question “Who will follow Schneider” quietly hung in the air. Our friendly company unanimously pretended to be silent and after 5 minutes something of quite acceptable quality was placed on my table. True, the terminal block is not screw-mounted, but ala VAGO. I don’t like them very much, God only knows what the customer will plug into the socket, although it says 16 A on them. Well, for the example it doesn’t matter, let’s unplug them.
So, in general, three of our wonderful sockets have been removed, the cable fits well, there is quite a decent amount of space left - we could put in something else, but we won’t. Sockets vary in depth.
I would categorically not recommend making such connections on VAGO. I have nothing against VAGOs themselves; I just think it would be more correct to use them for lighting groups. Although they hold the declared 20A, there are, firstly, a lot of fakes on the market, and secondly, I recommend installing 16A and no more on the socket group. Their operating current is more than 20A, it seems that everything is nearby and maybe you’ll be lucky, but it’s better not to take risks. As many argue on the Internet, you can’t add anything to such a wiring and it’s superfluous. Add it without any problems - we crown the hole for the socket box next to it, install it and connect it in the same order. There are no problems, but there is peace and healthy sleep.
Lighting is even easier, the cable is thinner, it’s easier to switch, it’s a fairy tale, not life. Let's look at the example of my favorite Schneider switch. I found only a two-key one. This means that in the proposed lighting group we will have two consumers, each with a key. Then everything is simple. Our ground is not switched and we put it under pressure, the same with the N conductor. We switch phases depending on which key will turn on what. The switch, as they say, is made for people. Everything is simple, competent, high quality. I mentioned earlier that in lighting groups we can use VAGO, and I myself use sleeves and sleeves. Yes, everything is for cartridges. But this is my IMHO, I like to sleep peacefully.
As you can see, there is more than enough space left. Believe me, all connection options fit and there is still room for a couple.
Well, we can sum up the results.
The switching option in socket boxes is more suitable for residential premises, where for many reasons distribution boxes are not relevant:
- Access to distribution boxes is necessary, but we cannot always ensure that the covers of the distribution boxes do not interfere with the appearance of the walls.
- again, due to the need for access, it is much more profitable for us to make the connection in the socket box. To access this switching, you just need to remove the socket.
- There are quite serious savings in the cable, because it goes from one group of sockets to another, and not in a star from one distribution box, and the cable route becomes more obvious.
- It’s not a problem to add sockets, reconnect the switch, inspect the connection (in case someone has trouble sleeping even with such wiring)
Wiring in socket boxes can be done using socket boxes of standard depth, as well as socket boxes of increased depth, which have recently become very popular in the market of installation products. We prefer to combine both standard and deep ones as needed. Sometimes situations arise when the wiring turns out to be quite large and even in a deep socket box there is no room left for an outlet. There is a very simple way out of this situation. We use the entire recessed socket box, subsequently simply inserting a plug into the frame. It turns out that the wiring was done and the design was not screwed up.
And then we live! For those who can’t wait, we unscrew the sockets and see how our sleeves or vags fare, and how others do. Because there is nothing else to do but use a high-quality electrical network without circles from junction boxes. That's all for today.
- Requires schematic
- Prerequisites
- Where to begin?
- Determining contacts by testing
- Protruding wires
- Junction box
- Connection without junction box
A two-key switch is a pair of independent single switches combined in a single design. The benefit of its use is obvious - for hidden installation, one mounting box (socket box) is required, and there is no need to make an additional hole in the wall, especially if it is concrete, and the price of one paired one is lower than two separate ones.
It is used to turn on adjacent lighting sections - these can be a bathroom and toilet, light bulbs in the corridor, groups of LED light sources or a chandelier with separate switching of lamps.
Requires schematic
For a correct and reliable connection, you must first imagine the entire algorithm of actions, and for this a diagram must be drawn. An experienced electrician can do such simple electrical work without a piece of paper with a drawing, but only because it is “drawn” in his memory due to work experience. For a beginner, it would be correct to start with a piece of paper.
Connection diagram for two-button light switch
Prerequisites
We have phase and zero coming from the shield, we immediately designate them with the appropriate color. If the wiring is one color, you must definitely find out where the phase is using an indicator. It is prohibited to supply phase voltage to an electrical appliance bypassing the switch - safety depends on this.
After determining the identity of the wires, you must remember to turn off the power. As a rule, switches are connected using a junction box into which the network wires go. Let's say different groups of electric lighting devices are connected, and the cables to them have already been laid, all that remains is to bring them to the connections at the points indicated in the diagram.
The wires leading down to the switch and exiting through a fixed socket box must also be laid. You cannot first make the connection and then lay and fix the electrical wiring - from mechanical influences The contact may be damaged, or the wire may even break off so that it can no longer be pulled to the connection point.
Where to begin?
The answer to the question of how to connect a two-key switch consists of two parts:
- installation of wires in the distribution box at the top;
- connection at the bottom of the terminals of the switch itself to the switched conductors.
There is no fundamental difference where to start. But it’s better to start with the switch, because then, making connections in the box, having a tester, it’s easier to find the common wire and switched lines by switching the keys. But below, having single-color wiring coming out of the distribution box, it will be possible to determine its connection points only experimentally.
When laying a wire to a double light switch, it must be laid with a three-core wire
Determining contacts by testing
The core has three contacts, as a rule, they are marked accordingly, a diagram may even be drawn. If for some reason it is impossible to visually determine the identity of the terminals, or this must be done with the wires already connected to the switch in the box, then they are determined using a tester.
To do this, the keys are moved to the off position, the measuring probes are connected and one of the keys is turned on. If nothing happens, she is returned to initial position, include another. If in this case there is no signal, then turn on the keys simultaneously - the current will flow through the closed contacts and the connecting bus of the common contact.
indicator screwdriver. “Continuity” of the phase wire
Thus, the probes point to two commutation lines. Then one of the probes is moved to the found common contact, and by alternately switching on, the left and right key. Empirically, you need to find such an arrangement so that one probe always remains on one common terminal, and the other shows the operation of each key in turn.
It is important not to confuse them, although this does not matter much for a chandelier, but it will be inconvenient if the light on the left turns on right click, and vice versa.
Protruding wires
Connecting a wall switch does not cause any problems. In the case of a hidden installation, the decision on how to connect a double switch comes down to answering the question: “How long should the wires protrude from the socket box?”
Protruding wires from under the socket are approximately 10-20 cm
There is an unspoken rule for electricians: the wire must freely reach the corresponding terminals of the switch turned down with the keys, horizontally leaning against the bottom point of the wiring box. Thus, the switch core will rotate as if on a horizontal axis, entering the socket box together with the wires.
Some electricians provide extra wires and bend them in the form of a springy snake. The main thing is that the switch fits freely inside and does not rest against the wires. Of course, you need to connect them to the terminals very carefully, otherwise they may jump out of the terminals at the time of installation.
The switch, inserted all the way, is held by hand and secured using evenly tightened bolts that push apart the hardware clamps. Fixing should only be done if the socket box itself is already securely fastened. Clicking the keys completes the installation.
Junction box
To connect the wires at the points indicated in the diagram, you can use twisting, insulating it with insulating tape, but the reliability and aesthetic appearance will not be at the highest level.
Ways to twist wires
Instead of electrical tape, you can use a heat-shrink tube - when contracted, it will press the contacting surfaces more tightly, which will add reliability to the contact. It is undesirable to use twisting if there is a possibility of error - when untwisting the wires, the metal of the core cracks, loses strength and conductivity.
Single-core and stranded wires cannot be connected in this way - in this case it is better to solder them or use crimping with special sleeves. And it is absolutely unacceptable to twist copper and aluminum together - electrochemical corrosion processes will occur at the point of contact, leading to loss of contact. As an alternative to twisting, you can use WAGO self-clamping connections.
Block in a box - a simple solution
Often, distribution boxes are sold together with mounting blocks that have a set of terminals for convenient connection of wires.
The type and variety do not matter, the main thing is that they can withstand voltage and current, and are suitable for the wall material. We carry out the connection as in the above diagram, connecting the corresponding wires at the indicated points.
We start with the phase conductor, connect it to the terminal, clamp it, and immediately connect the wire from the switch to it. Then we repeat this procedure for the remaining terminals. It is always important to label the wires, this will save time in identifying their identity.
Connecting a light switch to two light bulbs
Connection without junction box
According to the PUE, there must always be access to distribution boxes. In houses and apartments where aesthetics come to the fore, a cover on the wall will not fit into the composition of the style, discordant with the surrounding environment. Covering it with expensive wallpaper is also not a good idea The best decision– if access is necessary, they will have to be torn off.
Therefore, recently they have begun to use progressive methods for connecting switches, requiring a little more cable, but excluding the junction box. The fact is that a recessed socket box is used, and all connections are made in it.
Recessed socket box instead of distribution box
The phase wire is connected directly to the common terminal of the switch, the wires going to the light bulbs are also connected directly to the switched outputs, in the socket box only the neutral conductors are connected. With sufficient skill, this connection method can be carried out in a regular-sized installation box.
The entire connection diagram is in the socket box. The principle of connecting wires is the same
When replacing a switch old wire may break off. You can extend it using the following terminal block:
Link
Wiring without junction boxes is recommended in certain situations. All important points issues related to installing electrical wiring in this way will be discussed in our article today.
Installing electrical wiring without junction boxes is a technique that has appeared relatively recently. Despite this, in some cases this installation scheme does not contradict the basic documents of PTEEP and PUE. At the same time, the method itself still causes controversy in professional circles.
In this case, the wiring diagram has some differences from the one used when installing junction boxes. Without distribution boxes, the electrical wiring is also powered from a switchboard with an automatic circuit breaker. From it the wire is directed to the first socket and then stretches in a loop to the others.
The three-core cable (neutral, phase and ground) suitable for the first outlet is cut. Zero and phase are broken. But the grounding cannot be interrupted; it must reach the contacts of the third socket. Therefore, the two stripped wires must be connected to the corresponding incoming contacts. Then the zero and phase are routed to the next socket, connecting and tightening well with a screwdriver at the input contact.
In this case, the grounding cable is stripped. The cleaned wire is bent in half. Thus, we get two wires in contact with each other, which have a common core.
After this, a piece of wire is stripped on both sides. One end must be attached to the bent ground. As a result, we get three bare areas, which we press with a special sleeve and insulate. We bring the second end to the contact of the socket intended for grounding and clamp it. Thus, we avoid gaps and fulfill everything according to the documentation requirements.
After this, we connect the wire through the groove to subsequent sockets. In this case, a phase interruption and zero occurs. Terminal blocks are used to secure them.
It is worth noting that such installation of electrical wiring can cause some difficulties when using cheap sockets. Such products often have weak contacts. Because of this, the wires in them can become very hot, causing the wiring to burn out or cause a fire. Also, the ends of the cables may fall out of the contacts, leading to disruption of the power supply circuit in other outlets.
To avoid a similar situation with such a wiring installation scheme, the grounding wire (both zero and phase) is cut through. In addition, you can crimp cables, making taps not only for grounding, but also for phase and neutral. In this case, the sleeves used for crimping must be insulated. They are placed in the socket box, and the taps are then connected to similar contacts.
In the described wiring diagram, the socket box will serve as a distribution box. Therefore, the use of junction boxes will not be carried out here.
In order for such installation to take place quickly and without problems, experts recommend buying socket boxes that are longer. This way they will fit all the necessary wires.
For branch circuits, you need to consult an electrician before installing them yourself. However, you need to know that installing cables in this way is used in certain cases.
When to use
This installation method is recommended in cases where the walls have expensive finishing. In this case, the wiring is carried out under the floor and without installing additional electrical equipment in the walls in the form of a junction box.
The PUE also indicates the moments when only this wire distribution scheme is used. According to the documentation, the ban on inserting cables into the junction box applies to lines that supply:
- electric stoves;
- air conditioners;
- heating boilers;
- all devices that consume a lot of electricity during their operation.
In these situations, a circuit breaker should be installed in the distribution panels for protection. A separate cable line is laid from it. The result is a power circuit separate group devices.
Video “Electrical installation without junction boxes”
From this video you will learn about electrical installation without junction boxes with connections in socket boxes.
Advantages and disadvantages
The main advantage of using this wiring diagram is the absence of distribution boxes, which are usually installed at the top of the wall. As a result, no damage occurs appearance finishing.
It is worth noting that distribution boxes hidden under wallpaper or plaster can cause problems if there is a network fault. This is due to the fact that in order to get to the box, you will need to destroy part of the decorative design of the area above it. There are no such problems when using this installation scheme.
In addition, the advantages of this installation method include:
- installation costs for electrical wiring are significantly reduced;
- there is no need to form holes in the walls for distribution boxes;
- ease of installation and its ease.
However, it is worth noting that such cable installation requires a person to comply with all safety requirements.
In this case, all connection points must have access for preventive inspection and necessary repairs. In this scheme, the weak point is the cable connections. Another disadvantage is that installation requires a large length of wires.
Despite a number of advantages, installing wiring in a house without using junction boxes is considered a necessary measure. When installing electrical wiring, distribution boxes increase the safety of its operation and also improve the reliability of the electrical network.
As you can see, electrical wiring without junction boxes is a wiring option that has some positive aspects. However, we should not forget about the disadvantages. Before installing wires according to such a scheme, you need to weigh all the pros and cons in order to make the optimal and correct decision in each specific situation.
When purchasing a new home, the premises are always electrified before finishing the walls and ceilings. Today, in the age of new technologies, there are several common ways to modernize power supply. One of the most reliable and safe options is electrical wiring without junction boxes.
Electrical wiring without junction box
The wiring architecture is drawn up taking into account the interests and wishes of the home owner. Electrical installation is a series connection of a circuit without junction boxes. The conductors are connected to the electrical system one after another and are supplied from each lighting point, socket, and switch directly to the distribution board.
Before starting work, a preliminary calculation of the expected amount of current consumption when using the planned electrical appliances and devices is carried out. The connection diagram includes the necessary set of wires and cables, installation of sockets, switches, and electrical appliances.
New electrical wiring requirements consider using only copper conductors. Contact connections of wires during electrical installation play an important role in any electrical system. They must be resistant to mechanical damage and safe.
Wiring connection methods
Bonding of electrical conductors in accordance with technical requirements and current instructions is carried out using soldering, crimping, crimping using appropriate tools. When choosing a contact connection method, it is necessary to consider what the fastening is for and where it will be placed.
At the points of connection and branching of wires, a reserve is always left for reconnection in the event of a malfunction. Today, the most versatile, efficient electrical connections are screwless terminals. Simple and convenient, suitable for all types of conductors of different cross-sectional diameters.
The clamp consists of a high-quality steel spring that is resistant to aggressive environments and a current bar made of electrolytic copper of special tinning, and is fixed on the contact area with a screwdriver. The terminal has no restrictions on currents and voltages; it even connects conductors to the sleeve. Meeting modern requirements, the clamp has a reduced size, due to which it does not take up much space in the electrical box.
Features of electrical wiring installation
All electrical installation work is carried out only after installing the electrical panel and meter. After which the locations of the switching equipment are determined. In order to correctly lay wires and install socket boxes, an inspection of the cable route, conditions for laying wiring and electrical products is carried out.
The precision of electrification guarantees not only an aesthetic appearance, but also the safety of the entire home. So, when installing a socket box as a distribution box, you must follow the installation rules, these are:
- Fix the socket box in a wall made of brick, concrete, plasterboard using a building mixture.
- Install the socket box flush with the wall surface with the wiring closed.
- To fasten the glass, use special clamping screws with plates.
When laying the cable, you should use special fasteners that will protect it from mechanical damage and act as grounding. When designing an electrical network through sockets and switches, it is necessary to use only high-quality equipment.
Recently, installation socket boxes with a more in-depth shape have become in great demand, so that the stock of wires formed by loops or folds can fit compactly without sharp creases.
Installation of lighting without a distribution box
Today, in modern apartments, houses, and office premises, wiring without junction boxes for lighting has become relevant, despite the high cable consumption. For installation of apartment lighting fixtures, a special place is allocated in the distribution panel.
The cable from the ceiling lighting fixture to the electrical panel is laid in corrugated pipes, replacing grooves. Such an electrification system guarantees a reliable connection without breaks in cable lines and ensures safety during the operation of electricity. For wiring, it is recommended to use a cable with insulation made of polymer or PVC compositions.
The cross-section of the wires must be selected based on the load of the power supply system, surface finishing material, and wiring method.
Installation without junction boxes is carried out only during repairs. For minor faults, simply remove the switch or socket and test the wiring.
Electrical Wiring Safety
Upon completion of the installation of electrical wiring, it is necessary to carry out a set of measurements to ensure that the system is ready to use modern household equipment and appliances. Checking the functionality of the electrical panel, wires, cables, sockets, switches makes it possible to correct mistakes in a timely manner. Testing shows that:
- electrical wiring contacts have reliable grounding;
- connections are correctly connected;
- there is no extraneous voltage or damage to the insulation;
- automatic protection device matches the wiring.
Accurate measurements of electrical wiring can only be carried out with the help of electrical laboratory specialists. For testing, control and measuring equipment is used, which shows losses and electricity consumption. Sockets, switches, and lamps especially require preventive inspection to avoid short circuits.
Product quality is the key to wiring reliability and functionality
The performance, safety and reliability of modern wiring depends on the accuracy, care and professional execution of electrical installation. In order to ensure uninterrupted electricity in a house or apartment, it is necessary to conduct a visual inspection of the electrical wiring and monitor the condition of household electrical equipment.
Wiring without junction boxes is the most modernized, reliable electrical system for modern apartments and houses. Its only drawback is the considerable consumption of cable products and all components. Cables, wires, sockets and switches must be purchased in specialized stores where the products meet their intended purpose. international standards and has a quality certificate.
Any socket mechanisms, switches of the world's leading brands have high reliability and long service life with any connecting contact. Low quality products leads to rapid wear and may cause a short circuit, fire, or blackout of a room or the entire house.
When purchasing such products, information material from the manufacturer does not always provide a complete picture. Saving money is not a guarantee of safety, reliability and comfortable living.
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