Assembly and disassembly of Veko washing machines. Do-it-yourself repair of BEKO washing machines. DIY washing machine repair

Washing machines that have been in use for 10–15 years sooner or later begin to break down due to wear and tear of parts. Any technique has its own finite resource. The Beko washing machine is no exception - malfunctions that occur with it are divided into three categories. The first allow you to make repairs yourself, the second require the intervention of a specialist, and the third are so complex and expensive that it is easier to purchase a replacement washing machine(CM). We'll figure it out when we carry out the repairs. washing machines“Beko” with your own hands, and when you need the help of experts.

Causes of malfunctions

Disassembling a Beko automatic washing machine is impossible without knowledge of its structure - the instructions that come with each unit of product allow you to familiarize yourself with it. According to statistics service centers, SM Eyelids break due to the following reasons:

1. Dirt accumulates in drainage paths. Or the pump is broken - 30% of all calls.
2. Problems with the electronic module - 20%. Moreover, budget-class models with an Invensys board most often break down. The element is made of low-grade material that is prone to cracking - this damages the conductive paths. The most common ones that break down are the semistors that control the operation of the heating element, filler valve, and electric motor.

1. Breakdown of temperature sensors - 15%.
2. Depressurization and, as a consequence, leaks - 10%.
3. Extraneous noise - 10%. They appear due to faulty bearings or foreign bodies entering the device.

“Symptoms” of typical breakdowns

Before using the Beko washing machine, study its instructions, and before disassembling it, study its structure. If you entrust your washing machine to a specialist, there is no doubt that he will quickly find the cause of the malfunction and offer optimal solution Problems. High prices for services force home craftsmen to figure out on their own what’s broken in the machine? Many problems can be fixed without the help of specialists, especially if you have tools, instructions and a diagram of the device at hand. Almost all modifications can be repaired with your own hands - WKB 51001 M, WKB 61031 PTYA, WKB 61001 Y, etc.

Considering the prices for repair work, why not try to cope without the participation of specialists, especially if the washing machine is 10 years old and it’s no longer so scary if it breaks completely: it’s still time to update the “park”. Below are typical breakdowns that owners of Turkish washing machines encounter:

1. The water does not heat up to the value provided by the program or set by the user. Items are washed in cool water, regardless of the program. The opposite effect is also possible - overheating of water above the desired temperature.
2. The liquid slowly fills the washer. Or it doesn't flood at all.
3. The Beko washing machine does not start due to an uncovered hatch.
4. At the end of the cycle, the liquid is not drained. This condition may be accompanied by a strong hum.
5. The drum makes a loud noise as it rotates.
6. Programs and modes do not start, and the indicators all blink at the same time. Or the light is on, but the SMA does not start washing.
7. Pressing the start button does not start the machine, but the power cord is plugged into the outlet.
8. Beko washing machine models that have a display display error codes - H1, H2, H3, H4, H5, H6 and H7. SMA does not work in this case.

These are not all the “symptoms” of problems that occur with Veko machines - we have listed the most common ones. Let's look further at how to fix the most common breakdowns.

Cleaning the drain

In the SMA, dirty fluid is passed through a drain filter, which prevents hair, threads and dirt particles from entering the pump. The user's task is to clean the filter. But first you have to find him. As a rule, it is located at the bottom of the device. Before removing the filter, place a basin nearby or place a rag so that water gushing out of the hole does not spread across the floor.

In some Beko models, the filter is supplemented with an emergency hose for convenient drainage of liquid. How to clean a drain:

1. Turn the filter clockwise and remove it.
2. Clean the removed element from dirt and then wash it under running water.
3. Use a screwdriver to clean out the pipe - debris can also accumulate in it.

Maintenance of the inlet filter and hose

Since you have already taken up the tools, do one more useful thing at the same time - preventive cleaning of the inlet filter mesh. Water is supplied through it, which may contain particles of contaminants. Lingering in the mesh, they prevent normal filling of the tank. Before putting the mesh in place, look at the water intake hose - it may also be clogged.

Checking and replacing the heating element

The problem can be solved, but you will need to partially disassemble the device. The heating element is a thermoelectric heater, one of the leaders in the list of frequently broken elements. Due to poor water quality, salt deposits - scale - settle on the surface of the heater. When there is too much of it, the heating element does not work well, and then completely fails. A layer of scale prevents normal heat transfer. The heater, deprived of the ability to transfer the generated heat to water, simply burns out and has to be replaced.

Error codes for heating element failure

But even when using ideal water or using special anti-scale agents, there is no guarantee that the heating element will not burn out. It has a certain service life, after which wear occurs. Problems with the heating element are indicated by fault codes H2 and H3. But to find out what exactly happened, you need to get to the heater. There are Veko models in which the heating element is located in the back, and there are also those in which it is located in the front.

How to replace the heating element?

To remove and check the heater, you need to disassemble the Beko washing machine. Sequencing:

1. To get the heating element located in front of the device, it is necessary to dismantle the cuff on the hatch. It should be removed extremely carefully - the cuff can easily be damaged, which will subsequently lead to leaks.

1. You can see the tail of the heating element with contacts and wires going to them. Disconnect the wires.
2. Use a tester to measure the resistance. The normal value is in the range of 25–30 ohms. Other values ​​indicate a breakdown.

1. Unscrew the nut of the bolted connection holding the heating element at the bottom of the drum and remove it.
2. Remove debris and deposits from the installation site.
3. Insert a new element using reverse order. Connect the wires.

Checking the temperature sensor

If after checking it turns out that the heater is working, proceed to check the thermistor. This sensor is located under the top panel. Take it out and check it:

• Remove the screws to remove the top panel.
• Remove the powder container and dismantle the control panel - these elements prevent you from getting to the temperature sensor. When the sensor is accessible, disconnect the wires from it.
• Measure the resistance using a tester. Under normal conditions - 4.7 kOhm.

• Warm up the sensor - lower it into warm water, the resistance should decrease. If the resistance remains unchanged, the sensor is broken and will have to be replaced.
• The thermistor is mounted in the same way as it is dismantled - the steps are performed in reverse order.

Electrical repair

Only users with electrical repair skills can cope with this task. If there is a break or oxidation of contacts somewhere, they will quickly fix the problem. Everything you need for electrical repair work "Beko" - fundamental electrical diagram. Where can I get it? It is enough to know the exact name of the model to find it on the manufacturer’s website.

It is much more difficult with electronics - to repair or replace the control board, you need special knowledge and skills. The cost of the electronic module is high - reaching a third of the price of the entire SMA. Therefore, it is not recommended to touch it - it is better to trust a specialist. If the repair is minor, then repairing the module will not cost much. But independent experiments can lead to complete failure of the module - you will have to purchase a replacement for it, and a simple problem will transform into expensive repair work.

What are the features of the renovation?

Models from Beko have design advantages that are especially useful when replacing bearings:

• The device is much easier to disassemble than most analogues from other brands.
• Usually you don't even have to take out the tank to replace the bearing.
• Simply remove the front of the tank to remove the drum. Rear end remains in its place.
• It is necessary to remove the entire tank when the bearing is destroyed - when it is necessary to remove its remains.

What other features of disassembly:

• To gain access to the front of the tank, remove the front panel. Next, unscrew the lower counterweight. Disconnect all tubes and wiring.

Advice. Before disconnecting the wires, secure initial position in the photo - this will help you in the future when you assemble the device.

• The front of the tank is held in place by 12 clamps - all of which must be removed to access it. Now all that's left to do is remove it back panel, dismantle the pulley mounted on the drum axle shaft, and then remove the drum itself. Please note that the bearings fit on the axle shaft with an interference fit, so it must be knocked out by carefully striking it with a rubberized hammer.

The screw connection holding the pulley on the drum shaft must not be removed.

When to do repairs yourself?

Experts advise users to carry out on their own only the simplest repair work that does not require special knowledge, namely:

• Replacement of damaged parts or components.
• Removing blockages.

It is better to entrust all other cases to professionals, so as not to damage the washer even more. Typical cases that you can handle yourself:

• cleaning the drain filter;
• pump replacement;
• check and intake valve replacement;
• replacing the heating element.

Useful video:

Different models of SMA Veko have not only similar structures and characteristics, but also the same problems. In a Beko machine for 5 kg, the faults will be the same as in a device designed for 3 kg. Timely familiarization with the instructions and compliance with operating rules will help prevent problems.

Extraneous pronounced noise in the washing machine during operation. Example, BEKO WM 3508 R First of all, I note that BEKO washing machines are quite reliable. In any case, mine, which has worked for more than ten years and which is assembled entirely from Turkish parts, I honestly note, is now mostly made from our components, the assembly of BEKO washing machines, of course, is also from imported components, roughly speaking, fifty to fifty, store managers, however, can convince you that everything is imported?! However, like any active actuator, various parts of the washing machine also fail. Unprepared, not knowledgeable in electrical engineering and mechanics, engage in self-repair Not recommended?! A fairly loud noise has appeared in the washing machine, especially when the machine is spinning or drying clothes - that is, when the engine speed is maximum, at low speeds (when washing, rinsing...), such a loud noise is not audible or almost inaudible. At first it was assumed that something had gotten in and was clinging between the free space of the stainless steel drum and the container where this drum was located. It was decided to remove the front part of the body of the washing machine - “for those who are not knowledgeable in repairing equipment, it is not recommended to carry out independent repairs, contact a service center for repairing washing machines.” Using the BEKO WM 3508 R. as an example, 1 - the lower part of the washing machine, open the panel where the water drain pump is cleaned. There you will see two screws, unscrew them. With your hands, grab the entire bottom panel on the right and left sides - simultaneously moving your right and left hands in right side horizontally, release the bottom panel from the fixed latches. The panel has been removed. 2- Now you will see two more screws, one on the left, the other, in the middle of the lower part, the front removable part of the washing machine, unscrew them. 3- With your hands, grab the center of the front removable part with your hands on the right and left. Lightly pressing the front removable part to the washer, simultaneously with your right and left hand, with some slight effort, not a sharp jerk, lower the front removable part of the washer to the bottom vertically. The panel with its grooves comes out of the panel latches that are screwed or built into the edges of the center of the washing machine body. I wrote about the removal process in sufficient detail, but this process takes time, maybe 10 or 15 minutes, that is, a very simple process of removing the front front part of the washer. Note; “If you do not understand electrical engineering and mechanics, please contact a service center for the repair of household appliances.” 4- You will see under the panel a rubber cuff made of special rubber, which with its front part is built into the front panel itself, and with its back part its rubber “skirt” is put on the “front front part of the container” and with the second outer part of its second “skirt” it is put on grooved groove around the container. A steel spiral-type tight-fitting spring is inserted into the groove, which holds the rubber cuff to the plastic container. If you understand and are convinced that there are no leaks from the rubber cuff itself, no cracks, no tears, and so on, then it does not need to be removed. Remove the fastened front part of the container, freeing it from the metal elastic brackets, which are located around the entire circle, the perimeter of the entire tank - container. Having unfastened (the front part of the container), assembled with the rubber cuff and the front front part of the washing machine body, you will see a separator-type stainless steel drum. Grasp this drum with your hands and swing it up, down, right and left. If you notice that the drum in your hands is rolling, that is, it is playing relative to the container, does this mean that the bearings on which the drum is mounted need to be changed?! If this is not the case, that is, you are pumping, but the drum, as they say, swings exactly at the same time as the container, then the bearings are still in working order in good condition and do not require replacement. You can check this more accurately. Hold the edge of the container with one hand, and try to pump the drum with the other, applying some force with your hand. If you understand and feel the play, even if it doesn’t seem so strong to you (for example, offhand, the play is more than a millimeter according to your feelings) - don’t be lazy, change the bearings and oil seal, everything is in place, they don’t have much time left . If you understand that everything is in order and everything is normal in this matter, then this is very good?! Then, in this case, there was a limestone blockage, deposits, scale, dissimilar threads, and dissimilar pile that had wound up. As a rule, and usually, (in the area) between, (container + heating element + drum), that is, in the lower part?! By removing the front plastic panel of the container, you will drag behind it the burnt on heating element, scale deposits, lint, and a lot of burnt layers that caused the noise in the tank (container) of the washing machine. When the buildup and so on grew so that it began to cling to the bottom of the washing machine drum, if this was the case, then this is very good, why?! You don’t need to change the bearings, we just clean and carefully scrape the heating element if it has a lot of scale. Naturally, we clean the entire lower part, the place itself, as well as around the fastening (wire or other latches of the heating element located at the bottom of the container), from scale and deposits. We collect everything in reverse order, “carefully not losing sight or attention to anything.” If there is little blockage and it is not the cause of the noise, then this is not good?! Removing the drum with bearings from the container (tank). 5- unscrew (5 screws) that hold the false panel located at the back of the washing machine. Having removed it, we will see the flywheel and the drive belt on it, which goes to the washing machine motor shaft. The flywheel is tightened with an M13 or M14 nut - but most likely 13, you will need a head or a socket wrench (not to be confused with a socket wrench). It will be inconvenient for the ends, and you can tear off the hexagonal edges of the nut. 6- holding the flywheel, move the nut (regular thread, right), unscrew it, remove the flywheel by hand (it should come off easily, it sits on the splines of the drum shaft). 7- we put something like soft non-ferrous metal on the end of the drum shaft (thick strips of copper or aluminum or duralumin are not important), this is necessary and important in order not to clog the thread of the drum shaft, which you will then try to screw back on nut?! With an accurate, well-aimed blow to the shaft (correction - not from the full swing), we knock out the shaft with the drum and bearings on the shaft (it is advisable for someone to hold the drum itself at the front of the machine at this moment so that it does not fly away and get damaged). Usually, three is enough strong blows so that the bearings come out of their seats (the seat is pressed into a plastic container) is a metal cage, with different turning grooves, respectively, for different outer dimensions of the bearings. Note; Usually, when you, having heard the noise during washing in time, have performed the actions indicated above, then when you remove the drum, the bearings will remain in their seats in the container - which is very good?! If you wait until one day while washing, the washer suddenly stops working and the drum jams. Then we will have more, I apologize, (hemorrhoids), removing the inner and outer seat rings of the bearings from the drum shaft. When, having removed the drum, it is discovered that the bearings have crumbled due to characteristic destruction, wear, rust, one part of the bearing remained in the seat of the container cage and burned, the other part remained in the seat of the steel shaft of the washing machine drum, and also, as a rule, burned from rust?! Pressing bearings out of the container (tank) seat. 8- outer bearing at the back of the washer, the second is located inside the container, it is larger in size than that one. What if you don’t have the necessary pullers for this at home?! We select a suitable thick round metal pin that will pass through the internal bearing, which is inside the tank, and rest against the outer bearing, which is behind the washing machine. We insert the pin into the container, pass it through the first bearing, rest it against the other bearing, and knock it out with small blows of a hammer, making sure there is no distortion, otherwise it will come out tightly, or even jam in the seat. With a smooth exit from the cage, the bearing comes out fairly easily. We select a thick round metal pin that is suitable in size; instead of a pin, you can also select a head from a car kit, because now access to the last bearing is good and convenient. We rest against the bearing that we still have, a larger one inside the tank. We knock it out with gentle small blows of the hammer, making sure that there is no distortion, otherwise it will come out tightly, or even jam in the seat. With a smooth exit from the cage, the bearing comes out fairly easily. Here is the data, for example, for the bearings in the BEKO WM 3508 R washing machine, since I always use it as an example. For design features All washing machines are practically similar, and differ in different “bells and whistles”, but the main essence of the mechanics is the same! "principle of blocking and security power circuits, both through the door of the washing machine and the door microwave oven– the essence of electromechanics is one!”, but that was now, a digression from the topic. Here are the data on the Turkish bearings and oil seal for the specified washing machine. As an example and to avoid misunderstandings, I provide complete data on them, taking into account that they may be made in Turkey, but can be easily replaced with our components, and also if it suddenly turns out that there will be no way to examine the inscriptions on the extracted parts. Türkiye. SKT/Z/25X50X10/4.1 – internal oil seal, washing machine tank. 3A/ORS/6203/C3/TURKEY – external bearing, rear part of the tank. 3C/ORS/6204/C3/TURKEY – internal bearing, inside the tank. We will only need the data that I highlighted (25X50X10 – 203 – 204), however, as I mentioned above, I provided the complete data, just in case?! Pressing bearings into the seat of the container (tank). Wipe clean, lubricate the container seats with lamp oil, highest quality , Vaseline.” Wipe the drum shaft clean, lubricate it with “lamp oil, highest quality, Vaseline.” Take new bearings, they must be “blind”, that is, you should not see the balls, they are covered with metal skirts on both sides, under which, at the manufacturer, they should have filled with grease. This is easy to check - by rotating the inner part of the bearing with your fingers, you should feel some rotational resistance of this internal part, your fingers, “the greater the rotational resistance, the more lubricant is packed there by the factory.” However, there cannot be so much lubricant that you won’t turn it, the bearing should turn, but not stand firmly at all, pay attention to this, and don’t take such a bearing?! We insert the inner bearing of the tank - slightly varying it with our fingers, as if catching the moment when the bearing moves in a little and evenly catches on the edges of the seat. We select a thick, powerful metal mandrel - a device that will not be larger than the seat, but sufficient to fit the outer size of the bearing. An example, (for example, you can select a head of a suitable size from a car set of heads, and so on). We also insert a rod from the car kit into the head, hit the rod with medium force with a hammer, note, the hammer should not be (child size), small. Subtlety - during pressing, the very first main blow is important. Because in this case the bearing immediately enters evenly into the seat, to some depth. This means that then you will only have to press it a couple of times (with a hammer), and the bearing will easily fit into its seat. If something goes wrong after the first blow, and you notice that the misalignment is not very large, (and if it is large, then take out the bearing and “seize” it into its place again), carry out one blow, immediately look to see if there is any misalignment, if it identified, use the rod with the head and redirect the hand force to the edge of the bearing, where in your opinion it sticks out more from the cage, and so on until it is pressed in. Having made sure that the pressing is complete, to be sure, press the rod evenly with your hand, and, without releasing the force of your hand, tap lightly on the rod, and the pressing is complete. We lubricate the oil seal with “lamp oil, highest quality, Vaseline”, from the outside and inside of it. In the same way as indicated above, intuitively through your hand, we fill the oil seal correctly, we also select and fit according to the above method - we press it in. The oil seal usually sits down easily, without any special effort. The second subtlety (I share it as for myself). Before installing the second bearing, fill the space with grease - the cavity of the race between the inner sides of the bearings. The lubricant can be litol, solid oil, composite lubricant, Litol-24, solid oil, CIATIM-201, CIATIM-202, OKB 122-7, CIATIM-203, VNIINP-242. You can use imported grease, lithol, composite lubricant, for example, BLUE (MS-1510), MS-1000, and so on. For what? Over time, in the process of rolling bearings and micro-vibration impacts on the oil seal lip skirt, under the influence of aggressive liquids with high temperatures, and these are various washing powders that we use, plus all this is heated to 90 degrees or higher, usually during washing , all these parts wear out at the same time. The bearings dry out, the seal begins to simultaneously let water through to the bearings, and then everything that I wrote about above happens. To prevent this from happening a second time for a very long time, after replacing the specified components, follow the procedure described above. During the rotation of the drum shaft axis, a certain centrifugal effect also occurs. The internal gap between the inner sides of the bearings, tightly packed with lubricant, will, at the moment of centrifugal forces, be pressed from the inside onto the bearings themselves. The rotation torque, the temperature of the bearings, otherwise, with an empty cavity, due to poorly pressed metal cuffs into the bearing, the lubricant that was filled into this bearing by the manufacturer will be squeezed out of the bearing into this empty cavity. In a good case, when performing this procedure with filling the cavity with lubricant, the effect is the opposite. The lubricant in the cavity, as I said, will press the bearing from the inside, and in a heated state, it will seep through the bearing seal into the bearing itself, thus adding lubricant, compensating for the depletion and burnout of its own lubricant in the bearing?! And so, we press the outer bearing, at the back of the tank, in the same way as indicated above, after filling the empty hollow space with lubricant - this is if you do it for yourself. It is clear that no one will do this to you in the service, and if you try to explain, they will either not understand you or will offer you an additional fee - is this your choice?! All you can hope for is that there is enough lubricant in the bearings themselves, nothing more?! Installing the drum into the container. Take a drum with a lubricated axis or shaft, as you prefer to call it, in your hands, insert the end of the shaft into the inner bearing of the drum - with some manual effort, press and push the drum axis into the bearings until it stops. If you’ve only reached halfway, what should you do? Look at the back of the machine to see if the shaft thread sticks out enough to screw on the nut. If not, then insert something round and wooden into the inner part in the center of the drum (for example, a shovel handle cut to the desired length that is convenient for you, and hit the handle a couple of times, not too hard, so that just what you need comes out of the rear bearing the number of threads, excess grease will also be squeezed out, this is normal). You don’t need to hit the drum itself, so to drive it, with the axle to the bearing seats, you can break the duralumin triad into which the axle is pressed - the shaft, and the triad itself is riveted to the stainless steel drum itself, then that’s it, it’s easier to buy a new washer?! Now you have enough threads, screw the nut onto the shaft axis without the flywheel, and pull the drum shaft with the nut to the end, you will understand this when the nut begins to tighten. We unscrew the nut, place the flywheel in the splines of the drum shaft, and again finally tighten and tighten the nut - that’s all. The rest of your actions. Place the unfastened “front part” of the plastic container (tank), complete with a rubber cuff (which we did not remove due to its good condition), and the “front metal part” of the washing machine, all carefully, without missing anything, in reverse order, according to the methods mentioned above in this topic. Place the metal latch brackets in their seats to secure and secure the “front part” of the plastic container. Good luck to all. Publication, copying of material, indicating this source resource, is welcome!

Like any other equipment, VEKO equipment does not last forever, and, as usual, breaks down at the most inopportune moment. Washing machines are no exception. It is generally accepted that VEKO equipment is equipped with low-quality components, such as a control board, temperature sensors, and relays. Let's look at what a BEKO washing machine is and its main faults.

Masters conditionally divide all malfunctions of washing machines into two groups - external and internal. The first group includes those that appeared as a result mechanical impact and related to violation of the integrity of the body:

• cracks in sunroof glass,
• scratches and dents on the body,
• breakdown of washing mode switches, hatch handles, etc.

Internal malfunctions of the BEKO washing machine include problems associated with the electronic control of the unit and various mechanisms.

Common problems and their solutions

If we take into account the experience of service center technicians, it will become obvious that VEKO washing units are most often susceptible to the following types of breakdowns:

• clogged drain system or pump failure;
• failure electronic systems and modules;
• breakdown of water heating elements;
• leaking water mains;
• malfunction of electric motors, breaks in the drive belt;
• presence of extraneous noise during operation.

Some of them are quite possible fix it yourself, even without special knowledge. Let's look at a few examples of malfunctions and how to fix them.

Poor water drainage

Poor water supply

If you notice that water is flowing slower than usual into the washing machine tank, first of all, you should check if it is clogged. filter in supply hose. To do this, unscrew it yourself, remove the filter, and rinse it under running water. Put the filter back and check the operation of the unit.

I would like to warn you that not all problems can be fixed on your own. It often happens that in order to fix a breakdown, you should contact specialists for help - an unskilled approach to repairs can only harm the unit.

Common causes of malfunctions

Considering all the malfunctions of VEKO washing units, it is worth noting that the drain system and pump are more susceptible to them than other parts. This usually occurs due to foreign objects entering the system and hoses becoming clogged. During operation of this unit, excess objects often fall into the drum, which cause malfunctions. The unit may appear extraneous noise, drum sounds, high vibration. But such “symptoms” can also be caused by bearing wear. In this case, the operation of the washing machine becomes unstable, and you should contact a technician to fix the problem.

The number one enemy of washing machines is hard water flowing through water pipes. Because of this water, water forms in the hoses. calcareous deposits that interfere with the stable operation of the drain system. In addition, lime is deposited on the heating element, which significantly impairs its functioning and, over time, completely disables it. To prevent this from happening, you need to periodically use special tools, for example. When operating the machine, water often gets on the electronic controls, which causes them to malfunction. Such cases are accompanied by smoke, the unit may spark when turned on, the indication disappears, or the machine simply does not turn on at all.

The book lists two common faults. Repair or replacement with an analogue of the pressure switch - level switch, as well as repair or replacement of the pump with an analogue. As I assume, based on the nature of the malfunctions of these elements of the washing machine, it is enough frequent breakdowns.

Read the book BEKO WM 3508 rm. DIY repairs online

If your washing machine does not spin, the washing modes are broken. It would be good if there is only one malfunction, but if there are several malfunctions, what should you do? You can, of course, call a repairman, or you can do the repairs yourself. I give a detailed example of repairing a BEKO WM 3508 R washing machine with two faults at the same time. There are two problems with the washing machine at once. The first defect is the pressure switch (level switch) in this model of the washing machine - EOE07 280 1560 400. This relay has several functions in operation, I will describe two.

Pressostat. (Level relay).

Note; Some of the following photos are enlarged below

The relay controls the water level in the washing machine drum. When the pump pumps water out of the “drain” drum, the pressure switch monitors the amount of water; when a certain minimum water level is reached, the rubber membrane of the pressure switch moves away and releases the contacts of the pressure switch relay. As soon as these contacts have changed state, the spin mode starts."If the water for some reason is above the minimum level in the washing machine, the spin mode will not be turned on. Check the spin mode (if only if you are sure that the “spin” mode itself is working properly, or even you don’t know), in the machine of the specified model it’s simple! Switch the AKSM “automatic switch of the washing machine” switch, at the top, far right, at the top, round switch, to the “spin” mode - (this almost in the final position of the switch). At the bottom of the machine where the drain pump and filter are, remove the rubber tube and remove the plug from the tube - or simply unscrew the filter, placing containers in advance to drain the water. Water will begin to drain through the tube or through the filter, the desired value will be reached the minimum water level in the pumping pump and then, as I wrote above, the contacts of the pressure switch relay will operate and the "spin" mode will turn on. Then it will become clear to you that the tachogenerator, which is also responsible for the "spin" mode, which is attached to the shaft of the main engine, is working properly and produces impulses sending them to the AKSM programmer. The tachogenerator can be checked easily; you don’t even need a tester; just connect simple headphones to the two wires coming out of the tachogenerator coil, having first disconnected the main block with the wires from the engine itself. Rotating the motor with your hand by the belt at different speeds you will hear different tones in your headphones audio frequencies– from 50Hz to 200Hz, depending on how hard you turn the motor. If this is not in the headphones - silence, then change the tachogenerator. So, the water was manually drained, but the “spin” mode was not as if the engine did not have enough strength to spin the drum and it stopped all the time - although I changed the brushes on the engine. To make sure that the pressure switch was working, I removed it and “blew into a plastic tube in another part of the pressure switch and did not hear the characteristic clicks of switching relay contacts.” So, for now, I indirectly found out that the pressure switch was faulty. Having disassembled it, I discovered that I central contact- this is a bimetallic plate that switches from one contact to another, as a result of overheating (turned blue), and was fused into the plastic body of the pressure switch; accordingly, the contact group of the pressure switch did not work and was fixed in one position. CM. RICE. 2 cm.(BEKO WM 3508 RM DIY repair fb2)

Of course, I freed the contacts, but apparently the time was lost for this; the silver-plated protrusions of the contacts were badly faded. (The silver tab under the spring, connected to the bimetallic plate, has burned out, Fig. 2). The second function of the pressure switch is to control the level of water poured into the drum of the washing machine. Therefore, it depends on what kind of malfunction can happen to this “level relay”. In one case, the “spin” mode may not work; in another case, water will be poured into the drum of the washing machine until it overflows from the machine. Information for craftsmen and service specialists and simply for those who understand technology. In conclusion, I will share one subtlety of replacing the pressure switch. If you have not found the required (original) pressure switch for the beko wm3508r machine, then the pressure switch of the above model can be interchanged without any problems with the pressure switch of the next model; CM. RICE. 3 and SM. RICE. 4 PR-100 272169 3/49 100/25 4/9588800 140/30-350 cm.(BEKO WM 3508 RM DIY repair fb2)

Structurally, the differences are not so great; on the pressure switch proposed as a replacement, there is also a group of contacts that are not used in the BEKO 3508R washing machine. I wrote completely accurately, in detail and in a column, how this pressure switch was pressed with a stamp, in order to avoid misunderstandings (see at the top under Fig. 3). Now the very subtlety of the connection; CM. RICE. 1 cm.(BEKO WM 3508 RM DIY repair fb2)

I did not draw the connectors of the washing machine in the figure; I believe that indicating the exact colors of the wires connected to the pressure switch is enough; (color may vary depending on manufacturer)

(on the original pressure switch, beko wm3508r, manufactured in 2003, the contact designations are 1,2,3,D)

The colors of the wires are striped, like car wiring. 1-(there are two wires in the connector) thick orange, white-orange.

2-(one wire in the connector) blue-green.

3-(there is one wire in the connector) thick red.

D-(one wire in the connector) white-gray.

(in another model of the pressure switch the following contact designations are used -11,12,14,16)

Now, based on the color of the wires, we connect a pressure switch of a different model, suitable for working in the BEKO WM 3508 R washing machine.

Attention; (see Fig. 1), 1-11,2-12,3-14,D-16. (contacts 21,22,24 remain free. Note: the only distinctive feature in the case of using another pressure switch of the model I indicated, two liters of water are poured into the drum of the washing machine and that’s where the differences end. Not for “specialists” and, in principle, for everyone, I do not recommend “adjusting the advance - delay of contact actuation”, the pressure switch level relay, the settings are factory balanced. Pour in a little more water, it certainly won’t be worse for lining laundry. Another separate reason for poor drainage and poor operation of the machine in general is wear and tear on the motor shaft of the water pump.

Drain pump arcelik esmi 2801100600 25w 0.2a. models (2801100400 25w 0.2a.)

SEE FIGURE 1a, 1b. original BEKO WM 3508 R pump see (BEKO WM 3508 RM DIY repair fb2)

In various operating modes of the machine, all sorts of malfunctions occurred in the program, when the time came for the pump to start working, its shaft was distorted in the seats due to severe wear along the diameter of the shaft and the impeller stood, did not rotate, the iron part of the engine, that is, the core, Accordingly, it got very hot, and the washing machine simply “freezed” not knowing what to do next.

SEE FIGURE 2 see (BEKO WM 3508 RM DIY repair fb2)

I briefly opened the pump filter and pressed my finger against the impeller and the pump began to rotate and the functions of the washing machine resumed until the next time the pump motor shaft jammed. I didn't get the pump out for a while and took measures to let the old one work a little.

I draw your attention immediately detailed instructions with illustrations I provide for those who know technology and understand plumbing in general for those who themselves can and are able to repair and repair various household appliances, also out of curiosity it is useful for everyone else, it will be easier to purchase a pump.

Two repair methods are “temporary” and “restoration of the pump.”

The first one is temporary.

Carefully placed the washing machine on its back wall, that is, with the drum door facing up, respectively. From its bottom, looking up to the upper right corner, I reached out, grabbed the base of the pump motor itself and, with a little applied force, slightly turned the motor housing counterclockwise and removed the pump. Immediately I disconnected the two terminals with wires from the pump motor. The engine receives 220 volts - it makes no difference when you connect the terminals to the pump. I pulled a ferrimagnetic armature from the poles of the motor cores. The armature is a coil made of ferrimagnetic material on a caprolon coil. Caprolon is a particularly resistant type of plastic - plastic. I won’t comment too much on the drawings, everything is quite clear. SEE FIGURE 1a, 1b above. And see Fig.3

SEE FIGURE 3 see (BEKO WM 3508 RM DIY repair fb2)

A steel rod with a diameter of 3.5 mm was passed through a caprolon coil (for the pump model “drain pump arcelik esmi 2801100600 25w 0.2a”, this rod is the pump motor shaft, which at the back and front of the seats had an output of 1.0 - 1, 5mm, see Fig. 2 above. This is strong, in this case the shaft, as I said, beats in its axis, at first when the output is not large, when the washing machine is operating, some noise is clearly heard in the operation of the pump - usually the noise is low, like rumble or vibration, when production increases, the drain pump warps and wedges.In the rear seat of the holder, the holder is also made of caprolon, into which an anchor is inserted between the poles of the engine core - the seat and it is with a reserve, approximately plus 5 mm according to the caliper, in depth.