List of malfunctions of ariston washing machines. Frequent malfunctions of Ariston washing machines. Heating circuit faults and F08 symbol

By and large, there is no need to introduce the well-known Italian manufacturing company to Russian consumers household appliances for home. And first of all - high-tech, high-quality and reliable automatic washing machines. So we won't do this. Let us focus all our attention on the infrequent, but still occurring, malfunctions of this equipment.

Malfunctions of Hotpoint Ariston washing machines (2000, Hotpoint, AVSL 109) by type

With rare exceptions, the main breakdowns that occur with the Ariston 2000 AFM (Hotpoint, etc.) can be easily repaired with your own hands. The rare exceptions we have mentioned include:

• Closing the engine electrical circuits;
• Open circuit;
• Failure of the electronic control module (ECM) and similar breakdowns.

According to statistical surveys of users and service center workers, whose responsibilities include detecting malfunctions of the Ariston washing machine and eliminating them, the main number of breakdowns in percentage terms is as follows:

• 20 percent of laundry machine malfunctions are caused by electrical and electronic devices;
• The remaining 80 percent are failures of the mechanical part of the AFM.

These studies are applicable not only to the Ariston brand and are considered common to all well-known brands of this type of equipment. Moreover, the majority of breakdowns occur due to the fault of the owners washing machines- automatic machine as a result of non-compliance, and often even gross violations, of the rules for operating this complex household appliance.

Based on the above, malfunctions of the Ariston washing machine and their elimination can be divided into three categories:

• Breakdowns that can be avoided without requiring repairs.
• Faults that you can fix yourself.
• Failure of components and parts, the repair of which will require the involvement of a specialist.

Malfunctions of the Ariston Margarita washing machine (other models) arising due to the fault of the owners, and methods for eliminating them

To the most frequent breakdowns Ariston ACMs include:

• Initially incorrect installation AFM, as a result of which the machine is subjected to excessive loads, the outcome of which is unpredictable.
• The transport fastenings and bolts were not removed from the vehicle. The result is the same as in the first case.
• Small hard objects were left in items intended for washing. As a result, malfunctions of the drum, drain pump, and so on.
• The appearance of scale on the thermal heating element and failure of the heating element.
• Negligent attitude towards the machine and improper, or rather absent, preventive maintenance of the device.

As you can understand, these rather serious breakdowns of ASM can be completely avoided with a little care and careful attitude.

Frequent technical malfunctions of the Ariston 2000 washing machine and ways to solve them

Modern automatic machines are equipped with a self-diagnosis function, the purpose of which is to carry out certain actions (in automatic mode) and when a malfunction is detected, information about its probable cause and location is displayed on the device display in the form of a so-called error code. A table listing error codes and their interpretation is attached by the manufacturer to the device when it is sold. In addition, there are a number of faults that do not require electronic confirmation, and are easy to identify visually or auditorily.

If you imagine the breakdowns that occur during the operation of the washing machine in the form of a top list, then it will look like this:

• The AFM does not spin out laundry and/or drain dirty liquid. The cause of this breakdown is most likely a clogged pump drain pipe or a water drain hose. It is eliminated by forcibly draining the liquid from the drum and cleaning the named elements from debris accumulations.
• Extraneous sounds when the device operates in spin mode. Possible reason– this is a failure of the bearing on the rotary shaft of the drum. The process of repairing such a breakdown takes a lot of time, but it is quite possible to repair it yourself. We will not describe the repair (replacement) of the bearing itself, since the solution to a problem of this kind is material for a separate full-fledged article.
• The washing machine does not fill with water. Washing powder is not washed out of the cuvette. In this case, the cause may be a clogged filtration pump of the water device or its complete unsuitability for further use. Depending on the cause, the malfunction can be eliminated by cleaning the filter or replacing the pump with a new one yourself.

• During washing, the ASM tank rotates only in one direction, periodically turning off and resuming its operation. The cause of this and similar troubles can be called a malfunction of the EMU. In this case, it is not possible to repair the device yourself, and you will need the help of a specialist. But! You can’t just repair the electronic module, but you can replace it with a new one yourself.

There are several other types of frequently occurring malfunctions of Ariston washing machines, which can be dealt with by carefully studying:

• error codes;
• technical instructions for the washing machine.

There aren't that many of them. Therefore, there is no need to doubt the reliability of the Ariston brand.

Explanations and useful information

The use of the phrase “do-it-yourself repair” occurs so often in our article for the reason that many similar articles on a similar topic, due to their obvious interest and belonging to service centers for the provision of repair services, do not include self-repair(which is completely wrong). And they send consumers to professionals.

You should know that most standard mechanical breakdowns and some electronic ones can and should be repaired with your own hands, without using the expensive services of specialized centers. We do not in any way belittle the professional qualities of such organizations, the prices of which are unreasonably high. We are just trying to help our readers avoid unnecessary expenses.

Breakdowns among Ariston washing machines are a rare occurrence, because manufacturers have long proven their equipment to be the most reliable. But still, even such excellent equipment can fail after a long period of use. Malfunctions of the Ariston washing machine are in most cases typical and come down to replacing failed elements.

The main malfunctions of Ariston washing machines

Failure of the heating element. Thanks to this part, the water is heated for greater efficiency of the washing process. If a failure occurs for this reason, the machine itself will determine this and issue the corresponding failure code (F03). This could be either a malfunction of the element itself or accompanying breaks in the power circuit due to burnt-out terminals. To eliminate the breakdown, you need to replace the burnt-out heating element or correct the terminals.

Bearing failures. This malfunction is typical for almost all car models of any manufacturer, including the Ariston hotpoint model.

You can see how this is done in the video or in this article:

Constant use of the machine causes the bearing shaft to wear out and moisture may enter it. The result is deformation of the part and incorrect operation of the washing machine.

It is not difficult to notice this breakdown - the machine begins to make a lot of noise during the spin phase. The sound is significantly different from normal operation. This damage can be easily eliminated by replacing new bearings. But working with faulty bearings can lead to serious problems– damage to the drum fastening, damage to the tank. Such violations entail a major overhaul of the equipment.

Regardless of vertical or horizontal loading, model range, and other indicators, it may happen that the machine refuses to drain or fill with water. The reasons may be blockages or burnt-out pump windings.

Sometimes, in order to improve the operation, it is enough to clean the filters; if their further operation is impossible, replace them. If everything is normal with the filters, but the water still does not drain, you need to replace the pump.

Malfunctions of the Ariston Hotpoint washing machine can manifest themselves in water leaks. The problem most often lies in the water intake or drainage hoses, depending on at what stage of the wash the leak is noticed. To fix the problem, you need to inspect the hose attachments to the machine.

Most often you need to tighten the fixing nut or change the rubber seal. Less commonly, the culprits may be hatch cuffs and pipes. In this case, the problematic part should be replaced.

Noise when operating the machine with normal bearings. In such situations, you need to check whether the machine is level. If not, you need to level its placement, and to reduce the level of vibration you can put a rubber mat. If this is done and the car is still noisy, the problem may be with the shock absorbers or the tank belt.

Washing machine fault codes

Ariston washing machines are equipped with a display that displays information about the washing process and mode. But there is another irreplaceable function of such a display. It will also display any breakdowns that have occurred under fault codes. Each such code is responsible for some kind of breakdown, and knowing their meanings will help you quickly identify and fix the problem that has arisen.

The following codes may appear on the displays of Ariston Hotpoint or Aqualtis washing machines:

• F01: indicates a short circuit in the drive motor of the device. It is necessary to check the contacts of the controller; moisture should not be allowed to get on the motor. If a breakdown is detected, the electronic controller or drive motor should be replaced.
• F02: The electronic controller has no information about the operation of the motor. Inspecting the motor rotor (its operation may be blocked by jammed bearings) will help determine the problem; also check the connections of all parts. The breakdown can be eliminated by replacing the motor or controller.
• F03: malfunction of the sensor responsible for temperature indicators, heating element. To eliminate this code, you need to check whether the controller is connected to the temperature sensor correctly, and see if the sensor has electrical resistance. If all these manipulations do not resolve the problem, you need to replace the sensor.
• F04: breakdown of the sensor that determines the amount of water. Here the problem areas are the sensor itself, with its connection to the controller. If everything is in order, but the code does not disappear, replace the sensor.
• F05: Drain pump problems. Check how the controller and pump are connected. If no damage is found, but the problem has not been resolved, you need to check the pump to see if it has mains voltage. You should also check for blockages in the drain hose. If the damage remains after these steps, replace the pump and pressure switch.
• F06: an error occurred with the buttons. You need to check whether the device buttons are working properly, check the panel for the presence of contacts with the controller. If any damage is detected, it is repaired and the device control panel is often replaced.
• F07: lights up when the heating element is not immersed in water. Actions: checking the quality of connections between the sensor that determines the amount of water and the controller; the sensor itself with the controller, as well as the heating element, are tested. To fix the problem, you need to replace the problematic element.
• F08: the relay is stuck or there is a problem with the sensor that determines the amount of water. It is worth checking the sensor and the relay connections to the controller. If a breakdown is detected, the corresponding part is replaced. If no fault is found, replace the controller.
• F09: Volatile memory failure. To eliminate the breakdown, change the controller. You can also try to flash the firmware of the microcircuit responsible for the machine's memory.
• F10: The water quantity check sensor does not send signals. It is necessary to check the connections, wiring, serviceability of the sensor itself and the controller and replace the used part.
• F11: no data is received from the drain pump. You should check the functionality of the connector connections from the controller to the pump, test the pump, and if necessary, replace it. You should also check the sensor.
• F12: no communication between display module and controller. In the same way as with previous breakdowns, the connection is checked, and any detected breakdowns are replaced with new parts.
• F13: malfunction of the drying temperature control circuit. It is worth checking the connections of the controller to the dryer, checking the sensor and replacing the inoperative element.
• F14: it does not turn on during the drying stage. It is necessary to check whether the heating element responsible for drying and the controller are connected to each other, check the functionality of both elements.
• F15: “drying” mode is not turned off. Check the connecting board, check and then replace the level sensor and connecting board.
• F17: indicates that the hatch door is not closed. Check whether there is mains voltage, whether the micro-switch of the lock works, and how securely it latches. The identified damage is repaired by replacing the hatch door lock.
• F18: incorrect operation of the microprocessor. To eliminate the code, you need to replace the controller.

Knowing about the fault codes of Ariston Hotpoint washing machines, you can find the reason for the stoppage. Ariston washing machines have a complex design, but in many cases it is possible to make repairs yourself, saving time and money.

Ariston washing machines are deservedly popular due to their reliability, stylish design and modern functionality. But if your assistant suddenly refuses to work, pay attention to the symbols that are lit on the device display or the blinking indicators on the panel.

And we will tell you how to decipher the most common washing machine errors and the subsequent steps to repair it.

In cars equipped with an information display, it is not difficult to find out the error code - it will appear in bright yellow or green.

But if the model is less “advanced”, to find out the cause of the breakdown you will have to unravel the code programmed by the manufacturer, based on the prompts of the indicator lights.

Algorithm for determining a breakdown based on the light bulb signal:

1. We remember the model of our Ariston machine (or check the information on the case or in the instructions).
2. We remember which indicators indicate a breakdown.
3. We find our device in the pictures.
4. We determine the digital value for each indicator.

All that remains is to put the received data together and decipher the problem code.

The sum of the numerical values ​​of the numbers of flashing lights on the panel of Ariston AVSL and AVL models will help decipher the code programmed at the factory

For example, if the lights on a washing machine are blinking, corresponding values“2” and “1” means that you should look for the causes of problems coded as F03(or F3, which is basically the same thing). Using this simple algorithm, other typical breakdowns are also determined.

Unlike most Ariston cars, the AQUALTIS model has a pro internal problems It is not the washing modes that signal, but the water heating temperature indicators

When the error code is clarified, all that remains is to determine the essence of the breakdown, and then decide whether it can be fixed with your own hands or whether it is better to immediately contact the experts.

Problems with the motor or control board

If you have loaded things into the device compartment, turned on the appropriate mode and pressed the “Start” button, but most likely the problem lies in the operation of the motor or control controller, which the display will signal to you with a code F1,F2 or F18. Although such breakdowns can occur at any other stage of washing, they are most often displayed precisely at the start of the program.

Irregularities under code F01 (F1)

Error F01 indicates problems in the control circuit of the motor that drives the drum of the washing machine. If there is no response to a signal from the electronic controller (board), the device will not work, and when you try to switch to any other program, it will continue to persistently display a fault code.

The causes of failure of the motor control module with code F1/F01 are most often problems with the voltage in the electrical network or high humidity in the room

Self-fix process:

1. A universal option for any codes is to unplug the washer from the outlet, wait 10-15 minutes and turn it on again - there is a chance that the electronics will reboot and stop giving an error. But even if everything worked out and the device started working, it is worth taking precautions so that the “first sign” does not lead to serious damage.
2. Provoke a signal F1 There may be a decrease in the voltage in the network (below 200 V) or a sharp jump, as well as damage to the plug or bending of the power cord. Try not to turn on the washing machine at the same time as other powerful energy consumers or through an extension cord, because ideally this device needs a dedicated line with its own machine.
3. Inspect the cord, the plug and the outlet itself - perhaps the reason is their malfunction.
4. High humidity in the bathroom can also cause problems with the motor control circuit. Remove moisture from the board contacts and ventilate the room often so that the humidity level does not exceed 70%.
5. The cause of the error may also be a disconnection of contacts in the engine control circuit. If you have skills in working with electronics, you can independently check the circuit from the device motor to the board for the quality of the connections by ringing with a multimeter all areas that cause suspicion.

If independent repair attempts do not lead to positive result, the reason may lie in a breakdown or failure of the control board firmware, worn out brushes of the electric motor, burnt out motor winding or damage to the cable with wires. To restore or replace these parts, it would be better to contact a service center.

Decoding signals F02, F2

This error most often occurs at the start of the program or at the spin stage, when the machine picks up speed to spin the laundry (at the same time, the drum itself may twitch or rotate intermittently). The device will display a code F02 and at the same time begins to drain the water.

Typically, this signal indicates a malfunction in the motor circuit or a breakdown of the tachogenerator - a small part with a ring that controls the speed of the washing machine engine.

To inspect the tachogenerator, you will have to partially disassemble the device, get to the engine and find a metal ring with wires on its shaft

Solution to the problem:

1. If the machine displays an error for the first time, the cause may be a one-time failure in the operation of the electronics due to network surges. Disconnect the device from the power supply for 10-15 minutes to allow the equipment to reboot.
2. Check that the drum itself is not blocked - it should turn freely by hand. But if during washing a small object gets between the drum and the tank, the culprit of the breakdown should be carefully removed and the machine restarted.
3. Problems with contacts - it is necessary to check the serviceability of the connections from the board to the electric motor, including the section with the tachogenerator.

But it's a mistake F2 It can also be a consequence of more serious breakdowns, the elimination of which will require replacement of the motor, tachogenerator or control board. In such cases, it is better to contact a workshop; you may be able to get by by replacing faulty solders on the control module or restoring damaged wiring.

Communication or board memory error with codes F09, F18

Signal of a malfunction of the electronic controller under the code F18 can only be issued by Aristons with asynchronous motor(models Hotpoint-Ariston, Margherita, AVSL, AV, AVL, AVTL, CDE), such errors do not occur on devices with a commutator motor.

The controller is electronic board, which is responsible for selecting the washing mode and displays it on the display, gives commands to the intake and drain valve, pump, pressure switch and controls the operation of the engine

Signs of controller malfunction:

• Incorrect engine operation - sudden changes, too high or, on the contrary, unreasonably low revolutions.
• The drum does not rotate when starting the washing mode.
• The machine fills with water and immediately drains, displaying a signal about damage.

F09– a memory error can occur when the network voltage surges or decreases. But it may also indicate a failed control unit.

First action after displaying codes F09 And F18 identically previous problems– turn off the power to the machine, give it time to reboot and turn it on again. If the reason is not a failure, it is necessary to check the board microcircuits.

But if you do not have the skills for such repairs, you need to entrust it to professionals who can reflash the controller, solder the contacts, replace only some elements (for example, the power capacitor) or replace the entire board

Problems with water heating

If during the washing mode the washing machine freezes for a long time, stops, does not heat up, or constantly drains water, the causes of the breakdown should be sought in the heating circuit. The device will indicate these problems with codes. F04, F07 or F08.

Failure of the heating element or pressure switch and codes F04, F07

In washing modes where heating is required, the error may appear immediately after startup, or after drawing water, but rinsing or washing in cold water will work normally. In this case, there are several options for solving the problem (besides the standard turn on/off the machine to reboot the controller).

If the code appears on the display during the washing phase or during startup (the machine does not even want to draw water), most likely the reason lies in the heating element itself. It can “pierce” onto the housing when the contacts come off or simply burn out.

To fix the problem, you need to get to the heating element, check all its connections, change the resistance with a multimeter (with a power of 1800 W it should produce about 25 Ohms).

To replace a faulty heating element, disconnect the cable with wires, unscrew the fastening nut (1), press on the pin (2) and pry off the sealing rubber (3), then install a new part and assemble it into reverse order

If the device collects and then immediately drains water, the cause may be a breakdown of the pressure switch - the water level sensor. If there is a problem, this element can provide the controller with information that the heating element was not immersed in water, which is why the machine does not start heating.

In this case, it is necessary to check the water pressure sensor tube with the pressure switch (the hose may become clogged, kinked, frayed, or come off). At the same time, inspect the contacts of the sensor itself - they may need to be cleaned. But more precisely, the code “says” about the breakdown of the pressure switch F04- Most likely, the part will require replacement.

To check the operation of the pressure switch, you need to put a small piece of hose with a diameter identical to the removed tube onto its inlet fitting and blow - characteristic clicks will be heard from a working part

In some cases, the problem may be in the board itself, faulty wiring or contact groups in the area from the board to the heating element or water level sensor. Therefore, you should ring all the elements of the control unit associated with the operation of the heating circuit, and if necessary, replace the burnt tracks or the controller itself.

Heating circuit faults and F08 symbol

If the water heating does not work correctly (or the machine “seems” to start when the tank is empty), an error code will appear on the display F08. The cause most often is a malfunction in the pressure switch circuit.

This problem can occur due to high humidity in the room, which negatively affects the controller. To make sure the board is in order, inspect it, wipe it dry, or blow it with a hairdryer.

One more simple solution The issue may be disconnected contacts of the heating element and the pressure switch, especially if the device was started for the first time after transportation. In other cases, a more professional inspection will be required with possible replacement of parts.

Possible malfunctions of Ariston machines, indicated by code F8:

• If the washing mode is interrupted immediately after starting or during the washing phase and the appliance does not heat the water, it will most likely be required.
• If the machine stops after starting, when switching to the rinsing mode, or does not spin, it is possible that the contact group of the heating element relay is “stuck” on the controller when it is on. In this case, you can replace the failed elements of the microcircuit and, if necessary, reflash the board.
• If the device “freezes” in various modes (and this can be either washing, rinsing or spinning), the wiring or contacts in the heater circuit may be damaged, or the pressure switch may break down, which considers that not enough water is entering the machine.

But if, when checking all the connections of the circuit and separately the pressure switch, the heating element relay and the heating element itself, no damage is detected, you will have to change the controller.

Errors in the operation of the drain or water intake

If the machine cannot draw water or, on the contrary, stops working although its tank is full, codes appear on the display F05, F11 or H2O. Let's try to understand the essence of such breakdowns.

Drain violations and codes F05 or F11

Error F05/F5 It always lights up when the drum is full, but attempts to force drain it remain unsuccessful - the machine “does not release” water and continues to signal a breakdown.

In this case, a cracking noise may be heard, as if some foreign object had hit the fan impeller, or a humming sound from the pump. Such a breakdown is a fairly common occurrence with Ariston machines, and in most cases you can fix it yourself.

Most often, the problem lies in a banal or drain hose - when washing, various hairs, threads, buttons, particles of dirt and small debris are separated from things, which gradually clog the gap for water to exit.

To remove them, you need to manually drain the water through the filter (if it is not the hose that is clogged) or manually scoop out the drum.

If the machine has blocked the doors and the water does not drain through either the filter or the hose, you can remove the liquid by unscrewing the drain pipe

Then check the condition of the drain filter (small hatch at the bottom of the machine), the pipe itself, and rinse the hose under good water pressure. At the same time, inspect the siphon or pipe if the drain is organized directly into the sewer.

Then reassemble the system in the reverse order, turn on the machine to the rinse program, make sure that it has filled with water, and forcefully switch to spin - if there is an error F05 does not appear, but the drain works, which means the problem is solved.

To avoid breakage, wash wool and fur items in a special bag, be sure to check the pockets of clothing before loading and arrange a preventive inspection of the filter at least once every two to three months

If the problem is not a blockage, the following options are possible:

1. Failure of the drain pump/pump - the part may simply require replacement, having honestly exhausted its service life, or it may fail due to the penetration of a foreign object, a broken motor coil, or a short circuit. First, you should disassemble the pump, remove debris, check the circuit and try to start the machine again. If the problem does not go away, you will have to.
2. Malfunctions in the operation of the electronic controller - the corresponding tracks or radio components on the microcircuit may burn out or oxidize (most often due to the same high humidity), or a firmware failure may occur.
3. Failure of the pressure switch - if the sensor provides information that the tank is empty, the machine simply will not start the draining program, so the faulty part must be replaced.
4. Wiring problems - you need to check if there is power to the drain pump when it is turned on.

Similar problems can occur with an error F11. Although most often this code indicates a breakdown of the drain pump (this is where the inspection should begin), it can also be hidden in incorrect operation pressure switch, controller or damaged wiring.

Problems with water intake and H2O code

Another common mistake, familiar firsthand to owners of Ariston machines, is the code H2O, indicating problems with the water supply. Usually it occurs 5-7 minutes after start (in rare cases - during rinsing), and the device may not let in water at all, or may collect too much of it.

The water supply error is perhaps the only one that is intuitive among other codes, since it is associated with the chemical formula H2O

Sometimes it's a mistake H2O may appear randomly different programs, but her characteristic feature– the drain and spin modes always work flawlessly.

Possible causes of failure:

1. Lack of water in the water supply, insufficient pressure or the supply valve to the device is closed. The actions here are clear: open the tap, wait for the water supply to be restored.
2. Damage to the water intake valve, which “allows” water into the device - if it breaks, it is easier to replace this part with a new one than to try to repair it.
3. Malfunction of the pressure switch - if the hose is clogged or damaged or the sensor itself breaks down, the machine will constantly draw in and immediately drain water, displaying an error H2O.

But if all the elements work, the problem may be a signal break due to damaged wiring or failure of the electronic controller.

Other errors and their interpretation

In total, Ariston machines have 19 code signals indicating problems, of which we have examined the most common ones.

But let’s briefly talk about others possible failures in the operation of technology:

• F03– temperature sensor failure. You need to check the resistance of the sensor itself (normally about 20 ohms), as well as the circuit to the controller. If necessary, replace damaged parts.
• F06– indicates a problem in the circuit of the hatch locking device for Ariston cars on the Arcadia platform (Low-End and Aqualtis series), as well as problems with the control buttons for Dialogic models. In the first case, you should see if any item in the load is preventing you from slamming the door until it clicks. In the second case, the problem may be with sticking buttons or damaged contacts.
• F10– there is no signal from the water level sensor. The device can generate such an error if the drain is connected incorrectly to the sewer, there is insufficient water pressure, or there is an open circuit from the sensor to the board.
• F12– lack of communication between the controller and the display module. If rebooting does not help, you need to check the control board, display unit and their connections.
• F13– an open circuit or breakdown of the drying temperature sensor will require replacement of the part or worn contacts.
• F14 or F15– a malfunction of the drying heating element or a break in the heater circuit.
• F16– a signal for machines with vertical loading about a breakdown of the drum lock sensor. Most often it happens due to simple inattention - for example, the doors are not closed until they click. In other cases, the reason may be weak contacts in the section of the circuit up to the board or failure of the sensor itself.
• F17 or door– “indicates” that the hatch is not closed tightly enough. Perhaps the problem lies in an intruded foreign object, a weak hinge fastener, or a dirty lock for the door “tongue”. If no external culprits are identified, most likely the device that blocks the door while the machine is operating is faulty and should be replaced.

And in any of the options, the rule applies: in addition to the specific part that the device “points to,” the breakdown may lie in a faulty board, damaged contacts or non-working wiring.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

To help home craftsmen, we have selected several videos about various malfunctions of Ariston washing machines, options for deciphering code information, and practical tips for identifying the culprit of the breakdown.

Error code F08, inspection and repair of the machine:

How to repair an electronic controller:

How to eliminate drain errors with code F05:

As you can see, even smart technology prompts do not always clearly indicate the cause of the breakdown, because the same code may hide problems with various parts.

Of course, with the proper skills in working with electronics, most of them can be easily eliminated without the help of professionals. But if you don’t have such experience, you shouldn’t rush to extremes and change one part after another - perhaps the workshop will offer you a simpler solution to the problem.

We continue the series of articles on repairing washing machines with your own hands!
The Hotpoint Ariston range is very diverse and includes two dozen washing machines.

As an example: family 105 - arsl, arusl, arsf, armxxl, aqsf, then ariston 5050, 109 and 129.
Let's decipher ARSL 105 (A - Ariston, R - Russian assembly, S - depth 40 cm, L - no display, 10 spin speed 1000 rpm, 5 - noise level).

To be honest, everything is confusing and hard to make out.
And troubleshooting during repairs is similar in all copies.

There are machines that have a liquid crystal screen, then if it breaks down there is an error code on it.
And if it’s not there, then look at the flashing indicators of the front control panel!

• To determine the error code, you need to sum up the blinking LEDs according to the figure.

Ariston models HotPoint (1 pic) and AVL, AVSL (2 pics)

• Well, now the most interesting thing - error codes for Hotpoint Ariston washing machines with DIY fixes!

F01 - the signal between the control board and the engine is lost.

Make sure the network voltage is stable. It must be at least 210 Volts.

The motor control circuit is a rather capricious component of the washing machine mechanism. It would be a good idea to check the contacts yourself for corrosion and moisture. It is advisable to check every connection from the control board to the motor. It is possible that the problem may even arise from a loose motor block.

Using a tester, we measure the control voltages on the motor block.

The thyristor may have become unusable. Check the motor terminals.

Control board with brushed motor:

Control board with asynchronous 3-phase motor:

1 NTC thermistor. 2 Capacitor. 3 Throttle. 4 Diode bridge. 5 Power supply. 6 processor engine control. (Q1-Q6) - IGBT transistors.

F02 - lack of signal from the engine tachogenerator and electronic module.

We also check the engine block and module connector.

We make sure that the tachogenerator is working properly:

The resistance of the contact group in a quiet state should be about 70 Ohms. Without removing the probes from the coil terminals, rotate the motor shaft. The resistance must change. If this happens, then the tachogenerator is working.

F03 - break in the temperature sensor (thermistor), closing of the washing heating element relay.

The sensor itself rarely fails. Usually there is no signal from the board (temperature sensor connector contacts)

F05 - the drain pump or pressure switch (level sensor) does not work.

About 80 percent of the time, a clog (filter, drain hose) or pump is to blame.

We clean the filter by removing the front panel with a flat screwdriver and twisting it:

The pump impeller must be clean and free of debris:

Place the washing machine on its side and separate the pipe from the tank and pump:

If error F05 pops up again, the reason is electrical, namely, why doesn’t the sump pump work?

We take a multimeter in our hands and start the draining program and measure the voltage at the pump terminals. It should be equal to 220 volts.

Its presence tells us that the pump needs to be replaced.

F06 - in Diagnostic models indicates non-working buttons.

A rare mistake and here everything is clear.

F07, F08 - heating element is not in water, does not work (burnt out or broken).

Make sure there is water in the tank by looking into the drum. Next, remove the back wall and check the heating element with a tester:

F04, F08 - pressure switch (water level switch).

Presence of signal from connector J3.

Check the condition of the level sensor:

Contacts-2-4 are closed - level “EMPTY TANK”
- contacts 2-3 are closed - level “FULL TANK”
- contacts 2-1 are closed - “OVERFLOW” level (not less than half the level of the loading hatch glass.

Remove the top cover by unscrewing the two screws at the back. This sensor is located on top:

Why is it needed?

To adjust the water level in the tank: low, medium and high. Protection against overflow of the tank is also provided.

How to check?
We just blow into it. You should hear clicks. There can be three of them. It depends on the water levels provided by the program: economical, delicate, half load.

F09 The memory card of the electronic board is faulty.

F10 - water intake time exceeded.

The filler pipe from the detergent cuvette to the tank may be clogged, or the water fill valve may not be working properly.

Also check the level sensor (see above).

F11 problem with the drain pump.

The pump winding resistance should be about 170 Ohms - measure with a tester.
Follow the instructions for error F05

F12 - there is no signal between the control board and the program selector.

Carry out an external inspection of the board for damage to the elements.

If no burnt components have been identified, diagnostics of the control module and its flashing are required.

F13, F14, F15 the drying element is faulty (washers with a drying function).

F16 - the breakdown is due to the blocking of the drum (vertical loading machine).

F17 - problem with the hatch lock.

There is no power to the door lock - ring the contacts.

F18 - board processor.

Module diagnostics required.

H20 - error no water flow.

It often happens that the inlet filter is clogged and there is no water passage due to dirt.

Unscrew the inlet hose and clean the filter mesh at the inlet

In addition, check the water pressure at the inlet of the solenoid inlet valve and its serviceability.

More common Hotpoint Ariston malfunctions:

• The washing program does not start, the door lock light blinks frequently:

It gives an error and drains the water.

We change the motor brushes.
We place the washing machine on its side so that there is easy access from below.
Attention! The detergent dispenser must be located at the bottom to prevent water from getting on the control board!

Disconnect the power connectors and unscrew the engine from the tank.

Don't forget to clean the collector and between the motor lamellas. They are covered with a copious layer of graphite dust. It needs to be removed. The most convenient way to do this is with a vacuum cleaner. The engine manifold should be cleaned with the abrasive part of a dishwashing sponge, and the degree of wear should be visually checked.

We install the engine in place, plug in the connectors, but do not put on the drive belt. It is necessary to perform the brush grinding procedure without load. To do this, we start the spin mode at the minimum available speed, visually and auditorily monitoring the operation of the engine. It should be smooth and without excessive sparking. Then we put on the belt and once again start the spin cycle at minimum speed with an empty drum.

• Water does not flow, the drum does not spin (the motor does not work):

The door is locked, code F-01 appears on the display, error H20

It is necessary to properly organize the drainage system. The tip of the hose should be at a height of 60 to 100 cm.


In addition, a break in the stream must be ensured when draining to avoid water being sucked back into the SM.

Detailed diagram of the tank with bearings and drum:

001 - screw m8x23 002 - bearing 25 x52 x 15
003 - screw m8x22
004 - bearing 20x47x14 6204 skf
004 - bearing 6206-2z 005 - sealing ring 008 - fastening screw + washer
009 - 46 liter tank cross member, 010 - upper counterweight 11 kg 011 - suspension spring bracket
012 - tank spring l = 181 mm 013 - inspection window gasket 016 - front counterweight
017 - side clamp for hose 019 - clamp for pressure switch tube
021 - tank holder 46 l with holes. n1040325
024 - shock absorber 80n hole 8.15 025 - drum flange 46 l.
029 - cross with seal. 030 - pulley d=210 mm h=20 mm
031 - elastic belt l=1046-1051

Additional articles.

Content:

Automatic washing machines of the Ariston brand are in high demand among the population. First of all, consumers pay attention to the quality and reliable operation of these household appliances. However, these units, like other models, are to one degree or another susceptible to various breakdowns and malfunctions. The main reasons are careless attitude to compliance with operating rules. In such cases, you have to repair the Ariston washing machine yourself or service center. The self-diagnosis function allows you to notice a malfunction in time and take timely measures.

Clogging

As a result of intensive use of the washing machine, clogs may form in it. In this case, at the end of the wash cycle, the pump works hard, trying to drain the waste water, but it doesn’t work. In some cases, the water does go away, but very poorly. It is recommended to start cleaning with the drain filter, which must be unscrewed. IN washing machines The Ariston filter is located on the lower right.

The next element is the pipe connected to the drain pump. It has a fairly large diameter, so it rarely gets clogged. The pipe is a bent corrugated tube that can gradually become clogged. To clean, the machine is laid on its side, after which the clamps at the joints are loosened. Due to its considerable width, cleaning the pipe does not cause any difficulties.

Next, the drain pump itself is checked. Some debris may be missed by the filter and end up inside the pump. The pump is disassembled and all foreign objects are removed. If the pump is completely out of order, it must be replaced.

Pump replacement process:

• The washing machine is de-energized and the water supply is turned off. After this, the screws are unscrewed and the back wall is removed.
• The unit is laid on its side so that the pump is at the top. Then the mounting screws holding the pump to the machine body are unscrewed.
• Next, the pipes are removed and the water is drained into the prepared container. The contact strip with wires should be disconnected.
• A new pump is installed in place of the old one, and all parts are assembled in the reverse order. It remains to check the functionality, that is, the performance of the drain function.

The last item to check is the drain hose. It often forms plugs, so it requires standard cleaning, as for any other hose.

Problems with the pump and fill valve

In Ariston washing machines, the water intake valve sometimes fails. The regulation of the water supply is disrupted; water can be poured into the tank even when completely disconnected from the power supply. To check, remove the top cover from the unit and inspect the place where the inlet hose is attached to the valve body. If no problems are found, you need to check the functionality of the element itself by measuring the resistance with a multimeter. A working valve shows a resistance value in the range of 30-50 Ohms.

It is impossible to replace the fill valve yourself; this procedure must be performed by service center specialists.

Sometimes the water stops draining, and the process itself is accompanied by a characteristic hum or even complete silence. This symptom indicates a malfunction of the pump located at the bottom of the washing machine. You can only get to it from the bottom. It is also better to entrust the replacement of the pump to specialists.

Heating element is faulty

The required temperature during the washing process is maintained thanks to the heating element. If the heating element breaks down, the indicator starts blinking, giving an error in the form of three flashes. With such a malfunction, the washing machine stops working, or washing occurs in cold water.

Sometimes an electric shock is felt due to the fact that the heater insulation is broken. Most often, heating elements fail due to hard, poor-quality water, which leads to scale formation. All repairs consist of replacing the faulty element with a new one and can easily be done with your own hands.

The process of replacing the heating element is as follows:

• The mounting screws are unscrewed and the back wall is removed. Immediately behind it, under the tank of the unit, contacts will be visible. In the center, between the contacts, there is a fastening element that holds the heating element in the desired position.
• The contacts need to be disconnected and the screw unscrewed. After this, the heating element is pulled out with gentle swinging movements.
• A new heating element is installed, which is secured with a screw, and the contacts are reconnected.
• Next, the washing machine is connected to the network and the functionality of the new heater is checked.

Sometimes the heating element stops working due to faulty wiring. Typically, such a defect is determined by visual inspection, and burnt wires are replaced in the prescribed manner.

The bearing is worn out or completely failed

In Ariston washing machines, bearings and seals rarely fail. But, if this happens, almost immediately unpleasant sounds appear, emitted by the moving parts of the destroyed bearing. This malfunction requires urgent and immediate action. Otherwise, the drum will have play, and as a result, it will cling to the tank. Replacing a bearing requires virtually complete disassembly washing machine.

An additional problem lies in the design of the tank of many Ariston washing machines. It is non-separable and consists of two halves soldered together. Removing old worn bearings requires the use of special tools. Therefore, it is possible to carry out such work independently only if you have certain practical skills. An experienced home craftsman will be able to cut the tank with a hacksaw, and then glue it with silicone sealant and tighten it with bolts.

Control unit malfunctions

Most often, the cause of control unit failure is. Therefore, to protect the unit, it is recommended to use stabilizers, circuit breakers and other special means. It is not difficult to replace a ready-made block; the main problem is the absence of one or another model.

These are the main malfunctions characteristic of Ariston washing machines. In practice, any unforeseen situations may arise, which only qualified specialists can deal with.