Rules for installing an antenna on the roof of a house. Installing an antenna bracket on various surfaces Do-it-yourself antenna mount

Chapter 1 from the book by S. L. Koryakin-Chernyak “Repair and Setup Handbook” satellite equipment»

Continuation

Read the beginning here:

1.7. Satellite antenna hangers

Antenna mount selection

The bracket for mounting the satellite dish must provide reliable support for the antenna with a large margin. Perhaps after some time it will be necessary to install a larger satellite dish instead of the existing antenna. The best option- use a bracket already installed on the wall (balcony, loggia), which also has sufficient strength for a larger plate size.

Therefore, it is advisable to purchase the bracket separately. Types of brackets are shown in Fig. 1.42.

	A)		b)
V )		G)		d)

Selecting the antenna size is one of the most important issues. The larger the antenna, the greater its gain. But antennas over 1.2 m are much more difficult to install and require a larger bracket. We need to find a “golden mean”. In reality, the size should be such as to ensure high-quality viewing of channels from the selected satellite.

If you plan to watch several satellites and install a multifeed, then the dish should be 20-30 cm larger than in the case of receiving one satellite.

Suspension methods satellite dishes

Satellite antennas come in direct focus and offset.

In a direct focus antenna, the receiving head is located in the center, and the focus is at the center of the antenna at a certain distance from the mirror.

In an offset antenna, the signal travels at an angle and, reflected at the same angle, hits the receiving head (the focus is shifted relative to the center).

The antenna mounting method can be of two types:

• azimuth-angle;
• polar.

The polar suspension allows you to redirect the antenna from one satellite to another using an electrically driven actuator lever or a motorized suspension.

Special requirements are placed on the suspension and fasteners, especially if a large-diameter antenna will be installed at a high altitude and in a very windy place. Wind loads can reach very large values. And very often, all the equipment for the antenna, in order to reduce its cost, is made without a significant margin of safety. Don't cut corners in cases like this.

An azimuth-angle suspension (Fig. 1.43), which has manual adjustments only horizontally and vertically, is used to receive a signal from one selected satellite.
They allow you to tune the antenna to any satellite and firmly fix it. Of course, you can then deploy it and tune it to another satellite.

Polar suspension (Fig. 1.44), which allows the antenna dish to follow the entire visible part of the geostationary orbit, stopping at any selected satellite. The polar pendants are electrically driven and controlled remotely using an indoor positioner. They allow you to receive signals from a large number of satellites.

The name of this type of suspension comes from the fact that the axis around which the antenna rotates when tuning is directed towards the North Star.

Features of using the suspension

Let's consider the features of using these suspension designs. Azimuthal-angular- as a rule, a fixed suspension, the antenna is tuned to a single satellite and is rigidly fixed to the mounting bracket. To receive another satellite, the antenna must be completely reconfigured. Simple and cheap pendant.

Polar- the suspension is much more complex in design and configuration and, accordingly, more expensive. Provides the ability to receive several satellites located in different orbital positions. In Fig. Figure 1.45 shows a photograph of the polar suspension assembly used for a 1.8 m antenna.

1.8. Satellite cable

Justification for the need to use a special cable

Internet users on forums recommend cables from such manufacturers ( brands): Belden, CAVEL, ComScope, Eurosat, Finmark, Nordix, Supermax, Trylogy.
All cables have a characteristic impedance of 75 Ohms. They have low attenuation and are weather resistant.

Structural and electrical characteristics of satellite cables

The modern structure of the internal dielectric of a modern cable (for example, from CAVEL) can be characterized as a “three-layer pie” SKIN-PEEG-PIB.

SKIN- this is a thin film of polyethylene, tightly adjacent to the central conductor of pure copper. It protects the center conductor from moisture and oxidation, and makes the dielectric-to-center conductor bond predictable and consistent. This, by the way, makes the work of installers easier when they strip the ends of the cable before installing connectors on them. In addition, this polyethylene film additionally “centers” the central core of the cable in the working dielectric, for example, during sharp bends, thereby ensuring additional stability of the cable parameters to mechanical stress.

Unfortunately, both black carbon films covering the chemically (not physically!) foamed dielectric in BIEFFE cables on both sides protect it very poorly from moisture penetration. Therefore, the change (“aging”) of parameters in BIEFFE cables is quite large.

PEEG- this is a working dielectric based on HDPE (High Density Polyethylene compound), a high-density polyethylene compound obtained thanks to, we draw the reader’s attention, PHYSICAL (not chemical) foaming with nitrogen (Gas Injected HDPE).

Unlike the LDPE compound (Low Density Polyethylene compound), which is inherent in many cables, where the dielectric is chemically foamed using chemical powders that react with granules of solid PE polyethylene, HDPE has extremely high hardness and resistance to mechanical stress and damage.

PIB is an invisible hydrocarbon layer (PIB = PolyIsoButylene petrol jelly) applied on top of the PEEG/HDPE working dielectric exclusively in CAVEL cables. It is this PIB layer that prevents any penetration of moisture into the cable and thereby really dramatically slows down the “aging” of its parameters under the influence of the environment.

External dimensions. From the table 1.1 shows that, thanks to technological innovations and without compromising the electrical parameters, ITALIANA CONDUTTORI has been able to reduce the outer diameter of most of its CAVEL cables (see, for example, groups RG59, RG 6 and 1.13/4.8 - 5.0). Naturally, this makes CAVEL cables more flexible and facilitates their successful installation in narrow pipes, in already crowded cable ducts, etc.

Design parameters					Electrical parameters
Type cable	Manufactured vitel	Central conductor: type and diameter, mm	Dielectric: type and diameter, mm	Screen	Density braids, %	External shell. Type and diameter	Waves resistance, Ohm	Emk- awn, pF/m	Loopback support resistance, Ohm/km	Attenuation at 1750 MHz
SAT 703	CAVEL	1.13 / copper	4.80 / physically foamed gas polyethylene / HD polyethylene	Aluminum niya foil + tinned copper braid	45	6.60 mm polyvinyl- chloride	75	52	38	25 dB/ 100 m
C-0-12 A	Bieffe	1.15 / copper	5.1 / polyethylene / chemical foamed polyethylene / polyethylene		48	7.0 mm polyvinyl- chloride	74.2	53.7	50	26.3 dB/ 100 m
CS 10	Videocavi	1.13 / copper	5.0 / chemically foamed polyethylene		36	6.90 mm polyvinyl- chloride	75	53	42	26.7 dB/ 100 m
17/PH/ 9015	Unicavi	1.15 / tinned copper	4.6 / physically foamed gas polyethylene		47	6.70 mm polyvinyl- chloride	73	52.5	26	25.3 dB/ 100m
SAT 501	CAVEL	0.80 / copper	3.50 / physically foamed gas polyethylene / HD polyethylene		48	5.00 mm polyvinyl- chloride	75	53	65	34.6 dB/ 100 m
SAT C-0-8	Bieffe	0.80 / - steel, copper plated	3.90 / polyethylene / chemical foamed polyethylene / polyethylene		96	6.20 mm polyvinyl- chloride	73	57	91	36.3 dB/ 100 m
H 121	Belden / POPE	0.80 / copper	3.50 / physically foamed gas polyethylene		40	5.0 mm polyethylene	74.6	52.8	67	35 dB/ 100 m
RG 59	Comm Scope	0.81 / steel, copper plated	3.6 / physically foamed gas polyethylene	Aluminum niya foil + aluminum niya braid	67	6.10 mm polyvinyl- chloride	74.5	54.6	181	34.6 dB/ 100 m
RG 6	Comm Scope	1.02 / steel, copper plated	4.7 / physically foamed with gas polyethylene		77	7.10 mm polyvinyl- chloride	74.5	53	121	26.6 dB/ 100 m
RG 11	Comm Scope	1.63 / steel, copper plated	7.20 / physically foamed with gas polyethylene		60	10.2 mm polyethylene	74	54	60	17.9 dB/ 100 m
T 10	Times Fiber	1.63 / steel, copper plated	7.20 / physically foamed with gas polyethylene		53	10.2 mm polyethylene	75	51.2	68	18.6 dB/ 100 m
SAT 602	CAVEL	1.00/copper	4.30 / physically foamed with gas polyethylene/HD polyethylene		42	6.00 mm	75	52	50.5	27.9 dB/ 100 m
H 124	Belden / POPE	1.00 / copper	4.4 / physically foamed with gas polyethylene		35	5.9 mm polyethylene	73.5	55	57	29.2 dB/ 100 m
H 125 AL	Belden / POPE	1.00 / copper	4.8 / physically foamed with gas polyethylene		40	6.8 mm polyethylene	76.6	53.7	45	27.4 dB/ 100 m
CATV 11	CAVEL	1.63 / copper	7.20 / physically foamed with gas polyethylene/HD polyethylene		52	10.1 mm polyethylene / polyvinyl- chloride	75	53	21.7	17.7 dB/ 100 m
H 152 A	Belden/POPE	1.00 / copper	4.8 / physically foamed with gas polyethylene	Copper braid	76	6.50 mm polyethylene	76	54.4	47	36.2 dB/ 100 m
17/73 FC	CAVEL	1.63 / copper	7.20 / physically foamed with gas polyethylene/HD polyethylene	Copper foil + copper braid	61	10.1 mm polyethylene / polyvinyl- chloride	75	53	19.7	17.7 dB/ 100 m
PRG11CU	Belden / POPE	1.55 / copper	7.2 / physically foamed with gas polyethylene		50	10.1 mm polyethylene	74	56	20	18.6 dB/ 100 m

Mechanical strength. It is well known that in narrow pipes and densely filled channels, cables with foam dielectrics experience strong mechanical stress and stress. The physically foamed dielectric provides extremely high mechanical strength (stability) of the cable, which allows all its parameters to remain essentially unchanged after repeated kinks, compressions, and impacts.

Attenuation. Better attenuation coefficients are a consequence of a higher gas filling coefficient in the dielectric and careful selection of raw materials.

Resistance DC . This value is traditionally low for cables that use pure copper for the central conductors and pure or tinned copper for the braids (see Table 1.1). The value is higher for cables of the RG 6 and RG11 series, which use:

• copper-plated steel as central cores;
• braided aluminum.

Shielding factor. European standard EN 50117 requires this parameter to be no worse than 75 dB at these frequencies. IN the best cables it does not fall below 90 dB in the frequency band 30-1000 MHz.

High shielding efficiency is achieved through a combined screen:

• solid aluminum foil as the first layer;
• High-density (79%) CuSn braid is used as the second layer.

Cable wiring

Wiring the cable from the receiving head to the receiver is not difficult. Cable preparation consists of pulling the cable to the required length and attaching connectors to the cable. Its main stages are presented in Fig. 1.46.

If the satellite dish hangs outside the window, then holes for the cable can be made in two places: either in the corner of the window frame, or in the wall at floor level, if you have a long drill. If the antenna is on the roof, the cable is routed either along the facade of the building (the cable is attached to the top of the roof and near the window in the wall through the window frame), or along the low-current risers of the building.

Once installation is complete, the holes must be sealed with sealant. When drilling holes for cables in wooden window frames, it is advisable to use twist drills with a diameter of 8 mm.

• less than 750 mm for vertical routes;
• less than 230 mm for horizontal routes.

Most often, individual satellite television systems use RG-6 cable.

The cable is connected to satellite receiver and a satellite dish without joints and connections, since they cause signal loss. After pulling the cable, you need to install f-connectors to connect the LNB receiver.

From the book by S. L. Koryakin-Chernyak “”

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The Internet in Russia is developing rapidly. But only in cities. In most rural settlements for 2016, only Internet tariffs are available that offer mobile operators. There is no honest unlimited connection in such companies and is not expected. Therefore, rural residents have practically no access to either IP-TV or video from You Tube; large files “eat up” all the limited traffic. Cable networks are not going to come to the villages, it is financially unprofitable.

But still, progress does not stand still. There are a huge number of people living in rural areas from whom you can make money. Therefore, companies working with cable networks began to appear, providing unlimited Internet through data transmission via an antenna. A transmitting device is placed on the nearest tower, to which an antenna installed on the building is directed, and unlimited Internet appears in a private home.

The only condition is that the transmitter must be in direct view of the antenna. Tall buildings and trees significantly reduce data transmission speeds, so the higher you install the antenna, the better the signal quality will be.

Each specific case has its own installation methods, for example, in our example we had to make a bracket and mast for the antenna with our own hands, since nothing like this is sold in stores.

We took the most accessible materials for the work, which are lying around in the corners of almost every yard. The antenna mast was electric welded from two pieces of old half-inch water pipes. The main thing is that the two pieces of pipe need to be aligned evenly with each other so that the mast is as level as possible. Its length turned out to be 4 meters, in our case it is quite enough. The welding area was cleaned with an emery wheel and set aside.

DIY ANTENNA BRACKET

Now we need to make a bracket that will hold the antenna mast. For these purposes, take a corner 5 by 5 cm and a square pipe measuring 2 by 2 cm. Cut them into pieces with a grinder so that you get 2 pieces of approximately 50 cm each. The length of the corners was taken arbitrary, and the length of the pipes is equal to the distance over which the roof sheathing hangs over the wall. For us, this distance is exactly 50 cm. Using electric welding, we weld the square sections perpendicular to the corners.

Now you need to pick up another one into which the antenna mast will be inserted. We found a suitable piece with a diameter of an inch and a quarter, about 1 m long. We will weld two nails crosswise in its lower part so that the mast does not fall through. There are two holes in the pipe with a diameter of 9 mm.

We will insert the mast into it and drill through it in the same places with a 9 mm drill. Let's check the alignment of the holes by inserting 8 mm bolts into them.

The next thing is to weld the pipe to the squares, departing 10 cm from its edges. First, we will weld one part, installing the parts perpendicular to each other.

Then we will do the same with the second part. Our bracket is almost ready.

To strengthen the structure, we will weld 2 reinforcement rods diagonally. Thus, the bracket received the necessary strength.

In each corner we drill 4 holes with a diameter of 11 mm.

The antenna mast and bracket are ready. You can send them for painting.

While the parts are drying, we will carry out preparatory work for the bracket. We will attach it to the house. Since the distance from the ground to the installation site is 5 m, for comfortable work Let's build small forests. We will make them from logs and boards. The structure must be made with excess strength to ensure the safety of high-altitude work. We will install a plank flooring on top.

We will place a ladder on the scaffolding from which we will carry out the installation. First, we’ll lift the bracket, lean it against the pediment and mark the mounting locations with a pencil. Use a screwdriver to drill 8 holes. The gable boards, 25 mm thick, are not reliable enough to hold the bracket with the mast and antenna. Therefore, on the back side, in the attic, in the places where the holes were drilled, we will install two more boards 5 cm thick, placing them perpendicular to the gable plank. We will secure them firmly to the rafters.

Once again, with an extended drill of 11, we will drill. Install the bracket and insert bolts with a diameter of 10 mm into the holes.

On the reverse side we will secure them with nuts, place larger washers under them and tighten them with a wrench.

Our bracket is firmly fixed to the gable of the house.

Next, let's move on to installing the antenna. We attach it to the edge of the mast, positioning it in the desired direction, climb to the roof and insert it into the bracket pipe from above. Insert 8mm bolts into the holes drilled in the walls and tighten with nuts.

Since we kept the distance of the bracket from the wall to 50 cm, the antenna mast runs next to the sheathing. Let's take an aluminum hanger, crimp it around the mast and screw it to the boards with self-tapping screws.

Such homemade design reliable and durable, the cost of materials and production time are minimal. If the mast is even longer, it is advisable to secure it with guy wires made of steel wire. Now all that remains is to set up the antenna and use unlimited internet. If you liked the article, share it on social networks.

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The transmission of information via electromagnetic waves in the radio frequency range has become commonplace in the life of modern man. Without this type of communication it is impossible to imagine civilization in general: television, telephones, radio, navigation and control equipment, as well as many other attributes of our everyday life could not exist without radio waves.

Without going into the physics of the propagation and transmission of radio signals, we note: in order for this type of communication to work, a special kind of device is required that transmits and receives signals. Transmitters, as a rule, are rarely used by the average person, but receivers are used everywhere.

A necessary element of the receiver is the antenna, and even if you don’t see it, for example, cell phone, this does not mean that there is no antenna, it is just hidden inside the case. Unfortunately, this is not always possible.

We won’t tell you what the problem is here - this is a topic from a course in physics and radio electronics, and therefore it is of little interest to a person far from these issues.

However, we note: in some cases, for example, for receiving television or satellite signal, the antenna itself is quite large in size, and it must be installed at a certain height and oriented in a special way in space. In order for these conditions to be met, a special design is used - an antenna bracket.

You can look at photos of the antenna bracket on specialized websites - they will give the most general idea of ​​what it is. To fully understand this issue, you need to know more, and therefore we will dwell on this topic in more detail and reveal some, not entirely obvious, aspects: knowing them will save you from unpleasant and unnecessary “surprises”.

Necessary conditions for confident reception

One of the prerequisites for successful and reliable reception in the vast majority of cases, for example, for receiving satellite and television signals, is direct visibility between the transmitting and receiving antennas.

What does this mean? It's simple: the transmitting antenna, for example, a TV tower, is installed at the highest point of the landscape, this achieves the maximum coverage area, and the receiving antenna is yours. The main thing is that there should be no obstacles between these two antennas: hills, buildings, poles, fences, etc. That is, the signal from the transmitting station reaches the receiver along a forward vector, without encountering obstacles.

That is why the antennas are placed high above the ground: the higher, the less likely there is an obstacle between the transmitting and receiving antennas.

It is important to note here: if your house is located on a mountain, i.e., there are no obstacles between it and the transmitting station, then there is no point in “raising” the antenna high; a high location will not give any effect. It will be enough to use a simple bracket for the antenna on the wall, raising it 2-3 meters.

Otherwise, when the antenna is installed in a lowland, a sufficiently high mast is required to provide direct visibility, which will ensure reliable reception of a signal of sufficient strength.

The next thing you need to know about is directionality. In this case we are dealing with the need for precise orientation receiving antenna to the transmitting one. In other words: the receiving side of the antenna must be directed strictly in the direction of the transmitting station, this achieves the maximum level of the useful signal.

In some cases, in addition to positioning in the horizontal plane, clear orientation is also required in the vertical plane, in particular: the bracket for a satellite dish must provide for adjustment in both planes, and do this with high accuracy.

Another required condition– sufficient structural strength. When exposed to external factors: wind, shocks, precipitation, etc., the antenna must maintain its position and also not pose a danger to others.

For safety reasons, when installed outdoors, at a sufficiently high altitude, it is necessary to provide protection against lightning strikes, which will avoid damage to the equipment, the possibility of fire and shocks. electric shock people during a thunderstorm.

Bracket designs

According to the area of ​​application, it is necessary to distinguish the following types of antenna brackets:

• Street;
• Indoor;
• Automotive.

Car brackets are specialized structures, and therefore it makes no sense to dwell on them in detail in this article.

For indoor installation, use special indoor antennas with appropriate mounting brackets. Their main feature: small dimensions, the ability to install anywhere, with the exception of some special models, as well as aesthetic appearance.

There are no difficulties in using such antennas and, accordingly, their brackets, especially since they are made as a single whole.

Outdoor ones are the most common and most complex devices. This type of bracket allows you to mount the antenna on masts, walls and other building structures, orient it in space and ensure reliable installation.

There are a lot of options for such brackets. Complexity and cost depend on many factors: the mass of the antenna itself; the need for adjustment in space; installation method; possibility of remote position adjustment.

Many people make their own antenna bracket. In this case, it is important to take into account your capabilities and provide sufficient strength and reliability of the structure.

Photo of antenna brackets

Secure fixation external antenna on the wall in a selected location ensures signal stability and safety of people passing below. Strength is especially important when installing “heavy” antennas and satellite dishes with high windage.

The method of attaching the bracket depends on the material used to build the house. In difficult cases, standard dowel bolts are not suitable for use.

Brick, concrete, solid wood (timber, log)

The fastening method is the simplest, carried out according to the standard method:

1. Before drilling, find out where the wiring is located using a metal detector.
2. Mark the holes.
3. Drill holes (a hammer drill is suitable for concrete and brick walls; if the wall is wooden, use an electric drill).

   The process of drilling into a brick wall is quite simple, but you may encounter some difficulties. For example, burnt bricks must be drilled at low speeds in combination with the activation of the impact function. Burnt brick can be recognized by the black color of the dust.

   You need to start drilling a brick wall for a 12 mm hole with a 4-6 mm drill. They reach the planned depth, then the width of the hole is expanded with a 10 mm drill. Having reached the required depth, a similar action should be repeated with a 12 mm drill.

4. Blow holes through a small diameter tube to remove debris.
5. Place dowels with polyethylene plugs into the holes (usually a diameter of 12-14 mm is used)
6. Secure the bracket: screw a capscrew bolt into each hole and tighten with hex head screws, securing the bracket. On a concrete wall, use an anchor instead of a capscrew bolt.
7. Assemble the “plate” according to the instructions.
8. Connect the measuring device (Sat-Finder) and, based on its readings, rotate the plate at the optimal angle.
9. Pull the cable inside the room: you can through a window, but it is better to drill a hole for it in the wall.
10. Connect the cable to the set-top box.

When installing on a concrete or brick wall, dowels with polyethylene plugs with a diameter of 12-14 mm and hex head screws corresponding key. Anchor bolts are also used for fixation to concrete.

Ventilated or tiled facade

When installing a bracket on a ventilated or tiled facade, it is important to take into account the length of the bracket and the width of the “plate” in advance. The bracket is always attached to the main wall. After installing the antenna, it may turn out that it is impossible to rotate it at the desired angle: the top layer of the facade is in the way. Decide in advance which direction the “plate” will be directed and make sure that the bracket is long enough.

In the picture: the thickness of the façade prevents the antenna from being rotated in the desired direction.

Ventilated facade

In the case of a ventilated facade, the first stage of work will be to remove the facing tiles from the “hooks” of the steel frame to make room for fastening. Cut a hole in the insulation layer and secure the bracket in a standard way, as described above. The antenna mount should be mounted at one of the edges of the resulting opening.

On facade tiles:

• The location of the cut is marked (make sure how the antenna will be directed);
• A grinder makes a cut (use a tile cutting circle; cut on a perfectly flat surface).

Wall covered with foam plastic and siding

If there is a brick or other strong surface under the decorative elements, two fastening options are used.

1. Standard wall mounting

In this case, a piece of foam plastic and siding is cut out exactly to the size of the bracket mounting area and installation is carried out using standard materials.

Disadvantage: Significant reduction in the “reach” of the bracket, which subsequently does not allow the antenna to be rotated towards the base station.

2. Installation of fastening using special spacer tubes and extended length anchor bolts

You'll need some tough ones metal tubes, the length of which corresponds to the width of the interlayer. With their help, soft materials such as siding or foam will not experience stress, and the fastening will remain reliable.

Working method:

• Cut holes in the foam for the metal tubes;
• Drill through the walls;
• Install the metal tube;
• Secure the bracket.

Extended length anchor bolts (for example, No. 200) can be used. Select the anchor so that half the length is located in a strong wall, the other half in foam. Drill a hole, insert an anchor, remove the nut from it, attach the bracket and tighten the nut again.

Frame house wall

Option 1

Before starting work, the location of the metal frame is determined. You will need a powerful magnet or a special metal detector.

Drill all the way through the wall and secure the bracket with threaded rods the length of which matches the width of the wall. In this way you can quickly and securely attach the bracket. However, in this case, cold bridges are created, because the hole opens onto the street.

Option 2

• Take a wooden plate (or sheet of plywood) 20-30 mm thick.
• Drill holes in it and secure the bracket to the plate using bolts and nuts.
• Attach the plate with the bracket to the wall and secure it with self-tapping screws.

Facade and walls made of hollow blocks

When installing brackets on a wall made of foam concrete or aerated concrete, it is recommended to use chemical anchors.

• Drill a cone-shaped hole for the dowel;
• Insert the dowel;
• Place a metal pin in the hole;
• Pour in the chemical composition and leave for a while.

In case you encounter any problems during the process self-installation for antenna brackets, contact Alterico specialists. Our specialists will answer your questions or install the equipment directly high level. All work is guaranteed.