Connecting 2 computers via local network. How to connect two computers together into a single network. Soldering or welding wires

All electrical engineering, since the time of Faraday, uses wires. And for as many years as wires have been used, electricians have been faced with the problem of connecting them. This article explains what methods there are for connecting conductors, and the advantages and disadvantages of these methods.

Twist connection

The easiest way to connect wires is twisting. Previously, this was the most common method, especially when wiring in a residential building. Now, according to the PUE, connecting wires in this way is prohibited. The twist must be soldered, welded or crimped. However, these methods of connecting wires begin with twisting.

In order to perform high-quality twisting, the connected wires must be cleared of insulation to the required length. It ranges from 5 mm when connecting wires for headphones to 50 mm if it is necessary to connect wires with a cross-section of 2.5 mm². Thicker wires are usually not twisted together due to their high rigidity.

The wires are stripped with a sharp knife, insulation stripping pliers (ISR) or, after heating with a soldering iron or lighter, the insulation is easily removed with pliers or side cutters. For better contact, bare areas are cleaned with sandpaper. If the twist is supposed to be soldered, then it is better to tin the wires. Wires are tinned only with rosin and similar fluxes. This cannot be done with acid - it corrodes the wire and it begins to break at the soldering site. Even washing the soldering area in a soda solution doesn’t help. Acid vapors penetrate under the insulation and destroy the metal.

The stripped ends are folded parallel into one bundle. The ends are aligned together, the isolated part is held firmly with your hand, and the entire bundle is twisted with pliers. After this, the twist is soldered or welded.

If there is a need to connect the wires to increase the total length, then they are folded opposite each other. The cleaned areas are placed crosswise on top of each other, twisted together by hand and tightened tightly with two pliers.

You can only twist wire made of the same metal (copper with copper, and aluminum with aluminum) and of the same cross-section. Twisting wires of different sections will turn out uneven and will not provide good contact and mechanical strength. Even if it is soldered or crimped, these types of wire connections will not ensure good contact.

How to connect electrical wires by soldering

Connecting electrical wires by soldering is very reliable. You can solder untwisted wires, but such soldering will be fragile due to the fact that the solder is a very soft metal. In addition, it is very difficult to lay two conductors parallel to each other, especially when suspended. And if you solder on some kind of base, the rosin will stick the soldering area to it.

A layer of rosin is applied to the pre-tinned and twisted conductors with a soldering iron. If another flux is used, it is applied in the appropriate manner. The power of the soldering iron is selected based on the cross-section of the wire - from 15 W when soldering headphones to 100 W when soldering twisted wires with a cross-section of 2.5 mm². After applying the flux, tin is applied to the twist with a soldering iron and heated until the solder completely melts and flows into the twist.

After the soldering has cooled, it is insulated with electrical tape or a piece of heat-shrinkable tubing is put on it and heated with a hairdryer, lighter or soldering iron. When using a lighter or soldering iron, be careful not to overheat the heat shrink.

This method reliably connects wires, but is only suitable for thin wires, no more than 0.5 mm², or flexible ones up to 2.5 mm².

How to connect headphone wires

Sometimes the cable near the plug breaks off in working headphones, but there is a plug from faulty headphones. There are also other situations in which it is necessary to connect the wires in the headphones.

To do this you need:

cut off a broken plug or an unevenly torn cable;
strip the external insulation by 15–20 mm;
determine which of the internal wires is common and check the integrity of all conductors;
cut the internal wiring according to the principle: leave one alone, common by 5 mm and the second by 10 mm. This is done to reduce the thickness of the connection. There can be two common conductors - each earphone has its own. In this case they are twisted together. Sometimes a screen is used as a common conductor;
strip the ends of the wires. If varnish is used as insulation, it will burn off during the tinning process;
tin the ends to a length of 5 mm;
put a piece of heat-shrink tubing on the wire 30 mm longer than the expected length of the connection;
put pieces of thinner heat-shrinkable tube 10 mm long on the long ends, do not put on the middle (general) ends;
twist the wires (long with short, and middle with middle);
solder the twists;
bend the soldered twists outward to the unprotected edges, slide pieces of thin heat-shrinkable tubing onto them and heat it with a hairdryer or lighter;
Slide a larger diameter heat-shrinkable tube onto the joint and warm it up.

If everything was done carefully and the color of the tube was matched to the color of the cable, then the connection will be invisible and the headphones will work no worse than new ones.

How to brew twist

For good contact, the twist can be welded with a graphite electrode or a gas torch. Torch welding has not become widespread due to the complexity and the need to use gas and oxygen cylinders, so this article only talks about electric welding.

Electric welding is performed using a graphite or carbon electrode. Graphite electrode is preferable. It is cheaper and provides best quality welding Instead of a purchased electrode, you can use a rod from a battery or a brush from an electric motor. It is better not to use copper electrodes. They often get stuck.

For welding, you first need to make a twist 100 mm long, so that the finished one turns out to be about 50. The protruding wires need to be trimmed. For welding, it is best to use an inverter welding machine with adjustable current. If this is not the case, then you can take a regular transformer with a power of at least 600 W and a voltage of 12–24 V.

Near the insulation, “ground” or “minus” is connected using a thick copper clamp. If you simply wrap a wire around a twist, the twist will overheat and melt the insulation.

Before starting welding, it is necessary to select the current. The required current varies depending on the number and thickness of the wire that makes up the twist. The welding duration should be no more than 2 seconds. If necessary, welding can be repeated. If everything was done correctly, then a neat ball will appear at the end of the twist, soldered to all the wires.

How to connect wires by crimping

Another way to connect wires is crimping. This is a method in which a copper or aluminum sleeve is placed on the wires or cables to be connected, and then crimped with a special crimper. For thin sleeves, a manual crimper is used, and for thick ones, a hydraulic one is used. This method can even connect copper and aluminum wires, which is unacceptable with a bolted connection.

To connect using this method, the cable is stripped to a length greater than the length of the sleeve, so that after putting on the sleeve, the wire sticks out 10–15 mm. If thin conductors are connected by crimping, then twisting can be done first. If the cable has a large cross-section, then, on the contrary, in the stripped areas it is necessary to align the wire, fold all the cables together and give them a round shape. Depending on local conditions, the cables can be folded with the ends in one direction or in the opposite direction. This does not affect the reliability of the connection.

A sleeve is tightly placed on the prepared cables or, when laid in opposite directions, the wires are inserted into the sleeve from both sides. If there is still free space in the sleeve, it is filled with pieces of copper or aluminum wire. And if the cables do not fit in the sleeve, then a few wires (5–7%) can be cut off with side cutters. In the absence of a sleeve the right size You can take a cable lug by sawing off the flat part of it.

The sleeve is pressed 2–3 times along its length. The crimping points should not be located at the edges of the sleeve. It is necessary to retreat 7–10 mm from them so as not to crush the wire during crimping.

The advantage of this method is that it allows you to connect wires of different sections and from different materials, which is difficult with other connection methods.

A fairly common connection method is a bolted connection. For this type you need a bolt, at least two washers and a nut. The diameter of the bolt depends on the thickness of the wire. It should be such that a ring can be made from the wire. If wires of different sections are connected, then the bolt is selected according to the largest one.

To make a bolted connection, the end is cleared of insulation. The length of the stripped part should be such as to make a ring that fits onto the bolt using round pliers. If the wire is stranded (flexible), then the length should allow, after making the ring, to wrap the free end around the wire near the insulation.

In this way, you can connect only two identical wires. If there are more of them, or they are different in cross-section, rigidity and materials (copper and aluminum), then it is necessary to install conductive, usually steel washers. If you take a bolt of sufficient length, you can connect any number of wires.

Terminal block connection

A development of the bolted connection is the terminal connection. Terminal blocks come in two types - with a rectangular pressure washer and with a round one. When using a terminal block with a pressure washer, the insulation is removed to a length equal to half the width of the terminal block. The bolt is released, the wire is slipped under the washer and the bolt is clamped again. On one side, you can connect only two wires, preferably of the same cross-section and only flexible or only single-core.

Connecting to a terminal block with a round washer is no different from using a bolted connection.

The connection of the wires is reliable, but cumbersome. When connecting wires with a cross-section of more than 16 mm², the connection is unreliable or the use of lugs is necessary.

Self-clamping terminal blocks WAGO

In addition to terminal blocks with bolts, there are also terminal blocks with clamps. They are more expensive than usual, but they allow the connection to be made much faster, especially in connection with the new requirements of the PUE and the ban on twisting.

Most famous manufacturer Such terminal blocks are made by WAGO. Each terminal is a separate device with several holes for connecting wires, each of which is inserted separate wire. Depending on the version, it connects from 2 to 8 conductors. Some types are filled inside with conductive paste for better contact.

They are available for both detachable and permanent connections.

The stripped wire is simply inserted into the terminals for a permanent connection and spring tendrils fix the wire inside. Only hard (single-core) wire can be used.

In plug-in terminals, the wire is clamped using a folding lever and a spring clamp, making it easy to connect and disconnect wires.

Since the wires do not touch each other, the terminals allow you to connect wires of different sections, single-core to stranded, copper to aluminum.

This method of connecting conductors has proven to work best at low currents and is most widespread in lighting networks. These terminals are small in size and easily fit into adapter boxes.

How to connect electrical wires with lugs

Another way is to use tips. The tip looks like a piece of tube, cut and turned flat on one side. A hole for a bolt is drilled in the flat part. The lugs allow you to connect cables of any diameter in any combination. If it is necessary to connect a copper cable to an aluminum cable, special lugs are used, in which one part is copper and the other is aluminum. It is also possible to place a washer, brass or tinned copper, between the tips.

The ferrule is pressed onto the cable using a crimper, similar to how wires are connected using crimping.

Soldering tips

Another way to use the tip is to solder it. To do this you need:

stripped copper cable;
tip designed for soldering. It is distinguished by a hole near the flat part and a thinner wall;
bath of molten tin;
a jar of phosphoric acid;
a jar of soda solution.

Carefully! Wear protective glasses and gloves!

In order to solder the tip, the cable is cleared of insulation along the length of the tubular part and inserted into the tip. Then the tip is successively immersed in orthophosphoric acid, in molten tin for a time sufficient for the acid to boil away and the solder to flow into the tip. This is checked by periodically briefly removing it from the solder. After impregnating the tip and cable with solder, the tip is dipped in a soda solution. This is done to neutralize acid residues. The cooled tip is washed with clean water and is ready for further work. Such a tip can be connected to aluminum busbars and lugs without the use of adapter washers.

Connectors for cables and wires

Cables can also be connected using special connectors. These are sections of pipe in which threads are cut and bolts are screwed in. There are detachable connectors, in which the bolts are unscrewed, and permanent ones. In permanent connectors, the bolt heads break off after clamping. There are also connectors designed to connect wires and cables of different sections. The cables are inserted end-to-end into the connectors, facing each other.

Connectors used on overhead power lines consist of two halves connected by bolts. The wires are laid in special grooves towards each other, parallel to each other, after which both halves are clamped with bolts.

Connecting wires and cables using couplings

If the cable to be connected is in the ground, water or rain, then conventional methods of isolating the connection are not suitable. Even if you apply a layer of silicone sealant to the cable and compress it with heat-shrink tubing, this will not guarantee tightness. Therefore, it is necessary to use special couplings.

Couplings are available in plastic and metal casings, poured and heat-shrinkable, high-voltage and low-voltage, regular and small-sized. The choice of coupling depends on the specific operating conditions and the presence or absence of mechanical loads.

Connecting wires and cables is one of the most important points during electrical installation. Therefore, all methods of connecting electrical wires must ensure good contact. Poor contact or poor insulation may result in short circuit and fire.

Video on the topic

Power terminal

Soldering wires in headphones

In the article we will talk about methods for connecting wires in junction boxes, and talk about preparing conductors for connecting household appliances and installation products.

Electrical wiring of residential premises consists of many elements, these are various current-carrying conductors (cables), protective devices, electrical installation products, and individual current consumers. In order to assemble all the components of the system into a single circuit and at the same time make the power supply functional and safe, it is necessary to qualitatively connect them together, or, as they say, switch them (switching refers to the processes that occur when electrical circuits are closed or opened).

At first glance, it may seem to an unprepared person that there shouldn’t be anything complicated here. But when working with electricians “on a whim,” it doesn’t matter whether we’re moving a single outlet, connecting a lamp, or assembling a complex control system, we take a serious risk. Experienced electricians know that electrical installation is primarily a “struggle for contact,” since it is an open circuit, and not a short circuit, that is the most common problem encountered. Obviously, the connection points in the circuit (terminals, twists) are the most vulnerable, since at these points the mechanical density of the contact can weaken (the contact area decreases), and an oxide film with a very high resistance forms on the conductors over time. Poor contact causes heating of current-carrying conductors and sparking at switching points - these are the consequences of the occurrence of transient contact resistance. Complete burnout of the wire and loss of power to the area when household appliances do not work or the light goes out is unpleasant, but the problem is solved. It’s worse if the insulation of the wires heats up and is destroyed, which threatens to injure a person. electric shock or the occurrence of a fire.

IN Lately The load on the wiring has increased significantly, so switching is now subject to even more stringent fire and electrical safety requirements. However, if previously there were not many connection options, now reliable modern devices have appeared that make wiring easier. In addition to welding and soldering with subsequent tape insulation of the twist, PPE caps, various terminal screw and spring blocks, all kinds of insulated and open lugs, and branch clamps can be used in a household network. These products will help you efficiently connect wires in junction boxes, assemble a distribution board, connect household appliances and lighting fixtures, sockets and switches.

There are several key objective factors that influence the choice of switching method, or the use of specific devices. Let's just list the main ones:

power and number of consumers (read: total cross-section of conductors);
material of current-carrying conductors (copper or aluminum);
cable type (flat or round, hard or soft stranded, single or double insulated);
purpose of the node (group or single branch, end connection);
the presence of movement of wires or vibrations near them;
elevated temperature, humidity;
indoor or outdoor use.

Connecting wires in junction boxes

According to the provisions of the PUE, branching of household network wires can only be carried out in a distribution (junction) box. During operation of the wiring, junction boxes allow you to quickly get to the ends of any individual branch and, if necessary, detect which of them is broken or has a short circuit. You can also always inspect the condition of the contacts inside the box and carry out their maintenance. Modern PVC boxes are used for open and hidden wiring; they have sufficient reliability and expanded functionality: they are easily installed on various surfaces, convenient for electrical installation manipulations.

In order to always have access to the connected wires, all distribution boxes are located on free sections of the walls; it is most rational to install them on the side of the corridors, for example, above the door of the powered room. Naturally, boxes cannot be tightly plastered or sewn inside building frames; the permissible decorative maximum is a thin-layer finish on top of the lid (paint, wallpaper, decorative plaster).

For arranging lighting and power circuits(outputs and sockets), it is recommended to use separate distribution boxes for each room. Such divided power allows you to make the electrical wiring of your home more balanced and safe, since the “lights” and “sockets” differ in workloads and operating conditions, and they are subject to different requirements. Moreover, much it's easier later modernize or repair the wiring, and not always all the wires in a room can be properly laid out in one housing.

Switching wires in any distribution box can be carried out according to the same principle. In most cases, “twisting” is initially used, but simply wrapping the conductors with electrical tape is not enough - it must be reinforced with additional operations that are designed to increase the contact area of the connected current-carrying conductors and reduce the oxidation of materials. Clause 2.1.21 of the PUE offers the following options:

soldering
welding
crimping
crimping (bolts, screws, etc.)

Wire crimping

The essence this method consists in the fact that twisted wires are inserted into a special sleeve-tip made of metal, which is compressed with hand pliers, a mechanical or hydraulic press. Crimping can be done either by local pressing or by continuous compression. This connection of wires is considered one of the most reliable. Crimping allows you to compress the cores very tightly, increasing the contact area; the mechanical strength of such switching is the highest. This method is used for both copper and aluminum wires.

The crimping process consists of several operations, each of which has its own nuances:

The wires are freed from insulation 20-40 mm from the edge, depending on the working length of the sleeve.
The veins are cleaned with a brush or emery until shiny.
Using pliers, a tight twist is made.
Based on the total twist section, a GAO sleeve with the required internal diameter is selected, as well as a suitable punch and matrix.
The inside of the sleeve is treated with quartz vaseline paste (if it comes “dry” from the factory).
The twist is inserted into the sleeve.
The twist is compressed using press pliers. It is necessary that the tool rig is completely closed.
The quality of the connection is checked - the wires should not move in the tip.
The sleeve of the connected conductors is wrapped in three layers of insulating tape; for a tip thickness of up to 9 mm, a polyethylene insulating cap can be used.

Conductor crimping

Crimping of conductors can be done using terminal blocks, PPE caps or WAGO clamps.

The terminal block housing is made of plastic; inside it there are sockets with threads and clamping screws. The wires can be inserted under single screws of the terminal towards each other, or one conductor passes through the entire block and is fixed with two screws. Some distribution boxes are equipped with standard terminal blocks.

A clear advantage of switching on a terminal block is the ability to connect copper and aluminum wires, which in this case do not have direct contact. The disadvantage is the need to tighten the bolt clamp if aluminum conductors are used.

PPE caps (connecting insulating clips) are also made of durable non-flammable polymer, which, being an insulator, provides mechanical and fire protection. They are forcefully wound onto the twisted conductors, then the conical metal spring located inside the cap moves apart and compresses the current-carrying conductors. As a rule, the internal cavity of the PPE is treated with a paste that prevents oxidation.

WAGO terminals for junction boxes are screwless, here the compression is performed by a spring, you only need to insert the stripped wire into the terminal. These terminal blocks are designed to connect up to eight wires with a cross-section of 1-2.5 mm 2 or three wires with a cross-section from 2.5 to 6 mm 2, while the spring acts on the conductor with a force suitable for each wire. The clamps function normally at operating currents up to 41 A for 6 squares, 32 A for 4 squares and 25 A for 2.5 squares. Interestingly, WAGO universal clamps allow you to connect wires of different sections (from 0.75 to 4 mm2) in one housing.

These devices can be designed for a hard conductor, or for a soft stranded one. Due to the fact that there is no direct contact of the connected conductors, it is possible to connect copper and aluminum wires, and there is no need to regularly check the compression of aluminum. Inside, WAGO terminal blocks also have a paste that destroys the oxide film and improves contact, however, the clamps for copper conductors are not filled with contact paste. It is very easy to work with such connecting products, they are quickly installed, without the use of additional tools, they are compact and reliable. It must be said that WAGO is not the only company producing screwless spring-loaded terminal blocks.

Whatever type of crimping device is used, it is necessary to accurately select it according to the cross-section of the individual conductor or strand, since a terminal that is too large may not provide normal contact. In this case, you cannot always trust the markings - it is better to check the compliance of fasteners and conductors on site. During installation, we recommend having an assortment of crimp terminal blocks available according to standard sizes. Please note that to work with aluminum it is necessary to use contact gel; copper and aluminum conductors cannot be connected in one twist. After crimping, it is always necessary to check the strength of fixation of the cores in the terminal.

Soldering wires

Due to the technological complexity, this connection method is used quite rarely, mainly when for some reason it is impossible to use crimping, crimping or welding. You can solder wires made of aluminum and copper, you just need to choose the right solder. A regular soldering iron is suitable for branching wires with a cross-section of up to 6-10 mm2, but larger wires will have to be heated with a portable gas burner (propane + oxygen). For soldering, it is necessary to use flux in the form of rosin or its alcohol solution.

The advantages of soldering are the high reliability of the connection compared to crimping (in particular, we have an increased contact area). This method is also quite inexpensive. The disadvantages of switching construction wires by soldering include the duration of the work and the technical complexity of the process.

The soldering of conductors looks like this:

the wires are stripped of insulation;
the wires are sanded with emery to a metallic shine;
a twist is made 50-70 mm long;
The core is heated with a torch flame or a soldering iron;
the metal is coated with flux;
solder is introduced into the working area or the hot twist is immersed in a bath of molten solder for 1-2 seconds;
After cooling, the soldered twist is insulated with electrical tape or polymer caps.

Welding

Most often, electricians use contact heating welding to reliably connect wires in a distribution box. You can weld twists with a total cross-section of up to 25 mm 2 . Under the influence of an electric arc at the end of the twist, the metal of several cores fuses into a single drop, and then the current during operation of the electrical circuit does not even flow through the body of the twist, but through the formed monolith. If everything is done correctly, the connection is no less reliable than a solid wire. This method has no technological or operational shortcomings, the only thing is that you need to purchase a suitable welding machine.

Welding of copper conductors is carried out permanently or alternating current with a voltage from 12 to 36 V. If we talk about factory welding units, it is better to use inverter devices with sensitive adjustment of the welding current, which are lightweight and small in size (during operation they are sometimes worn on the shoulder), and can be powered from a household network. In addition, inverters provide good arc stability at low welding currents. Due to the high cost of inverters, very often electricians use homemade welding machines made from a transformer with a power of more than 500 W, with a secondary winding voltage of 12-36 volts. The ground and electrode holder are connected to the secondary winding. The electrode itself for welding copper conductors must be infusible - carbon, this is a factory-coated "pencil" or a home-made element from a similar material.

If a factory inverter is used for welding wires, then for wires of different sections it is recommended to set the following operating current indicators: 70-90 amperes is suitable for connecting two or three wires with a cross-section of 1.5 square meters, wires with a cross-section of 2.5 mm 2 are welded at 80-120 amperes These indicators are approximate, since the exact composition of the core may vary from one manufacturer to another - it is recommended to test the device and a certain current strength on scraps of conductors. Correctly selected indicators are when the arc is stable and the electrode on the twist does not stick.

The wire welding process includes the following operations:

the conductors are cleared of insulation (about 40-50 mm);
a tight twist is made with pliers, its end is trimmed so that the ends of the wires have the same length;
a ground clamp is connected to the twist;
the carbon electrode is brought to the end of the twist for 1-2 seconds (so that the insulation does not melt, but a solid copper ball is formed;
after cooling, the welded twist is insulated with electrical tape, heat-shrink tubing or a plastic tip.

When connecting wires, you should follow safety precautions and take fire precautions, as for any welding work. It is recommended to use a welding mask or special glasses with a light filter; welding gloves or gloves will not be superfluous.

Connecting wires to electrical equipment terminals

Connecting household appliances and various electrical installation products is also an important stage in wiring switching. The performance of consumers, as well as user protection and fire safety, depend on the reliability of electrical connections in these nodes.

The technology for connecting current-carrying conductors to equipment is regulated by PUE, current SNiPs, as well as the “Instructions for terminating, connecting and branching aluminum and copper conductors of insulated wires and cables and connecting them with contact pins electrical devices." Just like branching conductors in distribution boxes, soldering, welding, crimping, screw or spring crimping are used for termination and connection. One method or another is selected primarily depending on the design of the equipment, as well as on the properties of the current-carrying conductor.

Screw crimp is used in most types modern equipment. Screw terminals are found in sockets and switches, chandeliers and lamps, in various household appliances (built-in fan, air conditioner, hob). Crimp sockets are used to supply elements of the distribution board: circuit breakers, RCDs, electric meters, and switching busbars with screw terminals are also used here.

It should be noted that convenient spring-loaded terminal blocks can also be used to connect equipment. For example, very often switches are equipped with screwless terminals; WAGO produces a special series of clamps for connecting chandeliers and lamps, as well as for switching in ASUs (terminals mounted on a DIN rail).

Please note that to connect using the crimp method, soft stranded conductors must be terminated with insulated lugs (connectors). For rigid monolithic cores, connectors are not needed. If you do not use lugs, then the soft core should be tightly twisted and tinned with solder before connecting. The size of the tip is selected depending on the cross-section of the conductor, and the geometry of the contact part is selected depending on the type of terminal on the connected device and the operating features. For example, for a clamping tunnel socket, a connector in the form of a pin is used; for fixing with a nut on a bolt, a ring or fork connector is used. In turn, the fork tip is not recommended for use if the device is moving or vibration is possible in the switching area.

If it is necessary to clamp a rigid single-wire conductor (copper or aluminum) with a cross-section of up to 10 mm 2 under the bolt, then it can be bent into a ring of a suitable radius using pliers. The ring is cleaned from the oxide film with glass sandpaper or sandpaper, lubricated with quartz vaseline gel and put on the bolt (the ring should wrap around the bolt clockwise), after which it is covered with an asterisk washer (prevents the conductor from being squeezed out), a groover (springs the connection, prevents it from unwinding when vibrations), and the assembly clamp is tightened tightly with a nut. If a large cross-section core (from 10 mm2) must be clamped under the bolt, then a metal sleeve with a ring is placed on the conductor using the crimping method.

Switching wires is a very responsible job, and the process of assembling the circuit has a lot of nuances, which for convenience should be combined into one list:

Strip the wires using special pliers, since stripping the insulation with a knife often reduces the cross-section of the wire.
Always remove the oxide film from the conductor. Use glass sandpaper or sandpaper, use special liquids and contact paste.
Make the twist a couple of centimeters longer, and then cut off the excess.
Select the diameter of the sleeve or tip as accurately as possible.
Place the conductor under the terminal or sleeve/tip all the way to the insulation.
Make sure that the wire insulation does not get under the clamp.
If possible, insert and clamp into the tunnel screw terminal not a single soft core, but a double core.
When using electrical tape, wind it with overlapping turns in three layers, be sure to go to the insulating sheath of the conductor. Electrical tape can be replaced with heat shrink or plastic caps.
Be sure to wrap screw terminal blocks with electrical tape.
Always mechanically check the strength of the connection - tug on the conductors.
Never connect copper and aluminum directly.
Securely secure the cable near the patching area so that the wire is not pulled down and there is no mechanical stress on the connection.
Use color coding of conductors, for example, in the entire intra-house network, the brown conductor will be the phase, the blue conductor will be the neutral, and the yellow conductor will be the ground.
Adopt a single connection diagram for the installation of all devices (for example, the phase on the sockets is clamped on the right terminal, and the neutral - not on the left).
Label both ends of all wires yourself - with a ballpoint pen on the outer sheath, at a distance of 100-150 mm from the edge of the conductor, write its purpose (for example, “pink kitchen desktop” or “bedroom light”). You can also use tags or pieces of masking tape.
Leave a supply of wires convenient for installation. For distribution boxes, sockets and switches, the normal end length will be 100-200 mm. To switch the switchboard, you may need wires up to one meter long so that you can run some of them from the bottom of the box, and some from the top.
Bring external cable channels close to the distribution boxes; it is better to insert round corrugation or pipes a few millimeters into the housing.
We connect sockets in parallel, and switches in series. The switch must break a phase, not a zero.
Compress all the wires of one connected twist into a bundle and secure it with electrical tape. Inside the box, spread the insulated connections as far apart as possible.
Use only certified materials and specialized tools.

In conclusion, I would like to once again note the importance of high-quality performance of switching work. In fact, the technologies used are quite simple, you just need to make them a habit, and then the “installation culture” will appear by itself, and the wiring will be reliable and durable.

The New Year holidays are over and now it’s time to get to work. Let me start by saying that in this article we will look at such a thing as connecting two computers. If, for example, you have two computers or two laptops installed at home, or a laptop and a computer (like mine, for example), then sometimes a situation arises that you need to transfer something from one computer to another. Okay, if it’s a small file, then you can just use a flash drive. And if, for example, a whole film library or photo gallery is stored on one computer, then transferring it with a flash drive will not be very convenient.

In this article we will look at connecting two devices using HomeGroup. Many people have probably heard about it, and probably seen it on their computer, but haven’t even looked into what it is. With the help of a home group, in a couple of keystrokes (if everything is done correctly, of course), we will connect in my case a computer and a laptop. Of course, provided that you have home network, that is, a router is installed or, as it is also called, a router and these computers are connected to it. It doesn't matter how, via a wired network or via Wi-Fi.

So I have a computer and a laptop. On one of them you need to create a home group. I will do this on the computer. And on the other we will simply connect to this group. You can even connect three or four devices.

So, go to the lower right corner, namely to the system tray and click right click mouse over monitor icon

In the window that opens, find the “Homegroup” item and launch it

The Home Group creation window opens, click on the corresponding button

Here we select which folders will be opened for exchange between two computers. I opened everything, because I still have nothing there, since in standard folders I don’t store information, otherwise you’ll find hell later. So, we have configured the permissions, now click the “Next” button

In this window, the program will give us a password for the group. You can change it at your discretion, but it is better not to touch it and write it down in a safe place. It will already be there when you connect the second computer to the first. In this way, the group is protected from unauthorized access and if you do not have this password, you will not be able to join this group. Click the done button and our group has already been created. Now you can join it from any other computer on the network, the main thing is to know the password.

In order to join the host computer, we also open the Network and Sharing Center on the laptop. If you forgot how to do this, then scroll above and remember. Only this time a window with a “Join” button will appear. Let's press it.

Here we also check the boxes for those resources that we want to open for the host computer. In general, don’t worry, leave everything as it is and click “Next”

In the next window we will need the password that was given to us main computer. I hope you wrote it down, if not, you will have to create it again New Password on the first computer. In general, enter the password, click next and the laptop will connect to the computer

Now you need to configure access to the drives or folders that you want to open for general use. Can be opened necessary disks both on a computer and on a laptop, it generally depends on what resources you want to use together. I will show you with an example and open one disk for public use on the computer on which the HomeGroup is created. To do this, open “My Computer” and right-click on the desired drive or folder, depending on what you want to share. In the opened context menu select “properties”

Here we just need to check the box in front of the inscription “Open general access to this folder" and click the "Ok" button. That's it, the disk is now completely open for general use. Now I can access it from my laptop and view, copy or write files to it.

Now all that remains is to open the network on my laptop, find the main computer and now we see that drive “E” is designated as a shared folder. Basically, go there and do whatever you want.

This is how easy it is to connect two computers to each other via a home wired network or Wi-Fi.

Yes, and one more thing (I think you read the article to the end). There is a small nuance. It happens that everything seems to be done, but the computers do not connect and an error is displayed. It depends on what antivirus you have installed, not even which one, but what edition of the antivirus, with or without a firewall. If the antivirus is installed with a firewall, then it may not allow the connection to pass through and will need to be either disabled or added to the exceptions of the partner’s computer. If you have any difficulties with this, write in the comments, I will be happy to help you establish a connection between the two devices (if there is time).

To ensure that the power supply in your homes is always of high quality, uninterrupted and reliable, it is very important to correctly connect the wires during installation work. There are a lot of methods, we will consider each in detail separately with its advantages and disadvantages, with step by step instructions perform switching. We will also pay attention to the eternal question of electricians - how to connect wires whose cores are made of different metals (for example, copper and aluminum).

Removing the insulating layer from the wires

I would like to immediately dwell on a question that will be common to any method. Before connecting the wires into a common electrical unit, they must be stripped of the top insulating layer.

This can be done using a mechanic's knife. This method is simple, but there is a high probability of damage to the conductor. To do everything correctly, you must strictly follow the step-by-step instructions:

Place the wire on some flat surface (such as a table).
Press it with your left index finger.
With your right hand, take the knife and lightly press it into the insulating sheath of the wire. To avoid snagging the metal core, position it towards the cut at an angle. If the angle is right, there is a possibility of a circular cut in the core, as a result of which it may subsequently break.
Hold the knife in this position. Using the index finger of your left hand, slowly twist the conductor one full turn, thus cutting the insulation around the entire circle.
All that remains is to pull off the cut piece of insulation.

Professional electricians now necessarily have in their arsenal such a device as a stripper. This is a multifunctional tool that can be used to strip insulation from a wire or cut a cable. It can be simple, semi-automatic or automatic. The most important thing is that when stripping the insulation with a stripper, the conductor is not damaged. For each standard core diameter, such a tool has a calibrated hole with a cutting edge.

The length to which wire cores need to be stripped is different for each connection method.

Twist

Let's start with the simplest and most well-known method - twisting. It can also be called the oldest; it’s not for nothing that electricians call twisting the “old-fashioned method.”

We will not tell you that such a connection of wires is durable and reliable. According to the main document in electrical engineering, PUE (“Rules for Electrical Installations”), twisting is generally prohibited, despite the fact that half a century ago it was used everywhere. The fact is that in those days the load in the apartments consisted only of lighting, radio or television. If you consider the current load in modern apartments with a huge amount of household appliances used daily, then no old insulation, core cross-sections and methods of connecting wires are any longer suitable.

Nevertheless, we will talk about twisting, and even first of all, because it is the main stage of such connection options as welding and soldering.

Positive sides

The most important advantage of twisting is that it requires absolutely no material costs. All you need is a knife to remove the insulating layer from the wire cores and pliers to make the connection.

The second indisputable advantage of twisting is its ease of execution. You don’t need any special knowledge or skills; it can be done by anyone who has ever held pliers in their hands.

Several wires can be connected simultaneously in a twist, but their total number should not exceed six.

Negative sides

The main disadvantage of twisting is its unreliability; it weakens over time. This is due to the fact that there is residual elastic deformation in the cable or wire cores. At the point of twisting, the contact resistance increases, which can lead to contact failure and heating. In the best case, you will detect this in time and re-seal the connection; in the worst case, a fire may occur.

Electrical wires made of different metals cannot be connected using twisting. As an exception, you can twist copper and aluminum wire, but only if the copper core is first tinned with solder.

In electrical engineering there are concepts of detachable or permanent connection. So twisting does not apply to one or the other. A detachable connection is characterized by the fact that its ends can be disconnected many times. This cannot be fully done in twisting; every time after the next unwinding and twisting of the cores, they will deteriorate. It is also impossible to call twisting a permanent connection, because it does not contain the concepts of strength, reliability and stability necessary for this. This is another disadvantage of the twist connection.

Installation

If for some reason you do not have the opportunity to use other methods of connecting electrical wires, you can use twisting, just do it well. Very often it is used as a temporary option and is subsequently replaced by more reliable switching methods.

How to connect wires using twist? To begin with, the cores are stripped to 70-80 mm. The main thing is to twist all switched conductors into one single twist at the same time, and not wind one around the other.

Many people mistakenly begin to twist the wires together from the place where the insulating layer ends. But it is better in this place to clamp both wires with one pair of pliers, and with the other, grab the ends of the wires and perform rotational movements in a clockwise direction.

If the wire cross-section is small, you can twist it by hand. Align the conductors along the cut of the insulation and hold them firmly in this place with your left hand. Bend all switchable ends into one single bend at an angle of 90 degrees (a bend length of 10-15 mm will be enough). Hold this bend with your right hand and rotate clockwise. This must be done firmly and firmly. If it is already difficult to twist your hands at the end, use pliers as described above. As soon as the twist becomes smooth and beautiful, you can trim the bend.

You can connect several wires this way, but then to make it easier to twist them, make the bend longer, somewhere around 20-30 mm.

How to properly twist wires is shown in this video:

There is also a way to twist wires using a screwdriver, see about it here:

For information on twisting wires using a special tool, see here:

Now the resulting twist must be carefully insulated. Electrical tape is used for this. Do not spare it, wind it in several layers, and insulate not only the connection itself, but also step 2-3 cm over the core insulation. This way, you will ensure the insulating reliability of the twist and protect the contact connection from moisture.

You can also insulate the connection of wires using heat pipes. The main thing is not to forget to put the tube on one of the cores to be connected in advance, and then push it into the place where it is twisted. When exposed to heat, the thermal tube shrinks, so slightly heat its edges and it will firmly grip the wire, thereby providing reliable insulation.

If the twisting is done well, there is a chance that it will serve you for many years, provided that the load current in the network is normal. But it’s still better not to stop at this stage and strengthen the joint by welding or soldering.

Soldering

Soldering is when electrical wires are joined using molten solder. This type of connection is most suitable for copper wires. Although there are now various fluxes for aluminum, experienced electricians prefer to refrain from such soldering. But if necessary, you can use special fluxes and even solder copper and aluminum.